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Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby DG-Unit » Sat Jan 14, 2023 3:47 pm

Whipped the cluster out. No sign of bad connections for the plug but there is this weird scaring on lots of connections across the board. Is it done for?
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby DG-Unit » Sat Jan 14, 2023 4:09 pm

Well that’s interesting. Gave everything a clean with some circuit board contact cleaner front and back. Rolled the van to a parking space to get it off the double yellows (might not be relevant). Put the dash back in and it started plus the ABS light has gone out - I didn’t think it was related until i saw a post mentioning it on here as being linked to dash problems. Problem is i just don’t trust this van anymore to start when needed.
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby DG-Unit » Mon Jan 23, 2023 9:34 am

ABS light came back on. Can still worked until yesterday evening when it wouldn’t go anywhere. Tried cleaning the cluster circuit board again but nothing.

Possibly time to change the cluster gauges unless there’s somewhere I can send them off for repair?
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby ned » Mon Jan 23, 2023 11:31 am

Not sure if this helps,

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=189785#p1621438

Not the easiest to find with the title but is a good explanation on how to fix your clocks.
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby knobby1 » Mon Jan 23, 2023 8:08 pm

DG-Unit wrote:Okay. The DTCs are in:

B1209 Instrument cluster switch bank 2 circuit failure
B1205 instrument cluster switch bank 1 circuit failure


A few days old I know.....but..."B" codes are usually BCM related...I didn't even think a Mk6 had a BCM..?? :? Very confusing.

What code reader was used..??

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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby DG-Unit » Mon Jan 23, 2023 11:29 pm

knobby1 wrote:
DG-Unit wrote:Okay. The DTCs are in:

B1209 Instrument cluster switch bank 2 circuit failure
B1205 instrument cluster switch bank 1 circuit failure


A few days old I know.....but..."B" codes are usually BCM related...I didn't even think a Mk6 had a BCM..?? :? Very confusing.

What code reader was used..??

Lord Knobrot


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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby DG-Unit » Mon Jan 23, 2023 11:32 pm

ned wrote:Not sure if this helps,

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=189785#p1621438

Not the easiest to find with the title but is a good explanation on how to fix your clocks.


Thanks. I’ll give this a go before spending £120 to send it off for repair. I think the codes made me think it’s defo something bigger than I can sort but it’s worth a try :D
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby DG-Unit » Tue Jan 24, 2023 4:51 pm

Ugh. Re-soldered the connector contacts. I’m not getting any DTC codes but it also struggles to read the Instrument Cluster module now and then. Still no start, multimeter is giving me 11.56v at the batter contacts and similar in the engine bay. The battery indicator window is still nice and green (75% apparently) but it doesn’t get going with my Noco Boost jump pack. I can’t really understand why a 6 month old battery has lost so much charge over 5 days and still indicate good condition but maybe it is what it is.
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby ned » Tue Jan 24, 2023 6:00 pm

DG-Unit wrote:Ugh. Re-soldered the connector contacts. I’m not getting any DTC codes but it also struggles to read the Instrument Cluster module now and then. Still no start, multimeter is giving me 11.56v at the batter contacts and similar in the engine bay. The battery indicator window is still nice and green (75% apparently) but it doesn’t get going with my Noco Boost jump pack. I can’t really understand why a 6 month old battery has lost so much charge over 5 days and still indicate good condition but maybe it is what it is.


My old mk6 wouldn’t start with less then 12.6v and wouldn’t jump start either, start ya b*stard used to get that going in those conditions lol, the battery should be under warranty so take it back, many years ago I worked for an auto factors and the “new” batteries would sit on the shelf for months, once a months the company would trickle charge about 20 at a time to keep them topped up.
RUST IS LIGHTER THEN CARBON FIBRE

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viewtopic.php?f=27&t=209987

03 transit 125t280 2.0 tdci swb 229,000 miles.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=168296
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby DG-Unit » Wed Jan 25, 2023 2:56 pm

ned wrote:
DG-Unit wrote:Ugh. Re-soldered the connector contacts. I’m not getting any DTC codes but it also struggles to read the Instrument Cluster module now and then. Still no start, multimeter is giving me 11.56v at the batter contacts and similar in the engine bay. The battery indicator window is still nice and green (75% apparently) but it doesn’t get going with my Noco Boost jump pack. I can’t really understand why a 6 month old battery has lost so much charge over 5 days and still indicate good condition but maybe it is what it is.


My old mk6 wouldn’t start with less then 12.6v and wouldn’t jump start either, start ya b*stard used to get that going in those conditions lol, the battery should be under warranty so take it back, many years ago I worked for an auto factors and the “new” batteries would sit on the shelf for months, once a months the company would trickle charge about 20 at a time to keep them topped up.


Pretty sure I’ve still got the receipt for the battery so I can take that back. However, the battery indicator seems to suggest it’s good. I’ve since read that the instrument cluster problems can cause unusual draining of the battery - not sure how but this would explain a lot and all roads leading to the cluster. It’s just a tricky one to commit to £120-200 for refurbing the cluster. I might try get a super cheap used one and then jump start it to see if that is the problem but no guarantee a used one isn’t also trash.
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby ned » Wed Jan 25, 2023 4:31 pm

I don’t actually know what those green things in the viewing window do, do they point to the cells being good or voltage or amps, my daughters car battery was showing green but read only 8 volts, bloody batteries eh
RUST IS LIGHTER THEN CARBON FIBRE

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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby gotgcoalman » Wed Jan 25, 2023 8:31 pm

The green light is a device to make you think a battery is in good condition,when it's actually fooked.

It's to make you blame other components and replace them due to the light saying the battery is in good health.

See pic,light is green and battery is fooked.

IMG_20230125_192105.jpg


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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby DG-Unit » Thu Jan 26, 2023 12:21 am

gotgcoalman wrote:The green light is a device to make you think a battery is in good condition,when it's actually fooked.

It's to make you blame other components and replace them due to the light saying the battery is in good health.

See pic,light is green and battery is fooked.

IMG_20230125_192105.jpg


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk


This may be a good point. Especially as I got the battery from Halfords (although it’s a Yuasa one).

Another day of the saga. Got a friend to clip some jump leads from their car. Got it beyond 12.6v resting and it still wouldn’t start with or without the other car attached. Left it reading 12.5v on Forscan (after a crank attempt) and switched the isolator so the instrument cluster is off. Will check it over a couple of days to see what the drain is like and if there’s nothing will switch the isolator back on and see if a fault in the cluster might be draining it. either way i think my multimeter is screwed for sure (was reading all sorts that made no sense). It’s still sometimes reading the IC module on Forscan if I haven’t read the codes for a little bit but after that only reads the PCM - when either do show there’s no codes so maybe the re-soldering did the trick and the battery is just fooked? Ugh - feels like I’m still just guessing.
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Re: Starter motor gone? symptoms/tests?

Postby Nordic Blue » Thu Jan 26, 2023 12:26 pm

Hi DG-Unit,

If you're still getting issues it might be worth rechecking your soldering. When I did mine to fix intermittent readout and dials, the first time I put it back in the force of the plug clipping home broke a couple of the solder joints I hadn't done so well and had to redo them.
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