To go glow plugs or not?? disconnect??

[beclawrence007]

Hello,

I have been having alot of issues recently with my ford transit 2011, 2.4l

One being that the glow plugs may be burnt out, they have not been resistance tested, but apparently they are gone. I have a GB circuit code and a module code, plus a low beam code. No other codes.

I have heard many stories about glow plugs and them breaking off in the head/snapping or falling into the engine. So I am keen to know if any transit owners have had a hard time removing their plugs and if anyone has any tips for me to make it easier for them to come out. I will not be doing it myself but if there is something I can do leading up to them being done to make them come out easier please let me know .

Also have heard that we don't really need plugs unless in the minus temps. I live in sydney australia, so the car still starts up, its abit slower now in winter but not much.
So I am also wondering if it is okay to just leave them in if they are blown? will it cause any damage? will it affect the dpf regen? and is it possible if I leave them in and still connected that they break off inside and fall in?

OR should I disconnect them so they are not used at all?


Thanks so much
Any advice will help

Bec

[knobby1]

Hello,

I have been having alot of issues recently with my ford transit 2011, 2.4l

One being that the glow plugs may be burnt out, they have not been resistance tested, but apparently they are gone. I have a GB circuit code and a module code, plus a low beam code. No other codes.

I have heard many stories about glow plugs and them breaking off in the head/snapping or falling into the engine. So I am keen to know if any transit owners have had a hard time removing their plugs and if anyone has any tips for me to make it easier for them to come out. I will not be doing it myself but if there is something I can do leading up to them being done to make them come out easier please let me know .

Also have heard that we don't really need plugs unless in the minus temps. I live in sydney australia, so the car still starts up, its abit slower now in winter but not much.
So I am also wondering if it is okay to just leave them in if they are blown? will it cause any damage? will it affect the dpf regen? and is it possible if I leave them in and still connected that they break off inside and fall in?

OR should I disconnect them so they are not used at all?


Thanks so much
Any advice will help

Bec

A couple of things to note Bec....yes it's true you don't really need the glow plugs to start most Transits, especially in a climate like Sydney. I live in Brisbane and mine have been disconnected for several years without issue. You don't have a DPF with yours being 2011 Euro-4.... so no need to worry about that either.

The glow plugs won't cause any damage if not replaced. If you really want or need to replace them, it's best to flood them with WD40 or similar for several days prior to attacking them, warm the engine up as much as possible before you start work....the Aluminium cylinder head will expand slightly more than the steel of the glow plugs and makes it a bit easier to get them out.

No need to disconnect the glow plugs if they are blown, they will be disconnected via the blown bits anyway.

Lord Knobrot

[beclawrence007]

Hey,
Okay interesting. So leaving them won't be an issue hopefully.
But I do not know if they are completely dead though or if there is burnt wires or something that caused it.
Anyway will probably leave it for now.

I have heard wd40 is used alot but also penetrating oil is better? is that right?
is it okay to spray it on and then drive around?

Oh is it a euro 4? I thought it had a dpf, it is a VM model?
mmmmm well that is good to know if there is no dpf

Thanks

[marcrbarker]

What's the status of them? I mean electrically. Is just one failed? Even in cold weather one failed GP just takes more cranking to start. Gradually disintegrating is better than leaving a half-broken one trying extract it. There's much better fluids to use than globally marketed WD40. WD40 isn't really meant for dismantling anyway. Stateside they use 'Pennoil' or something, in UK there's 'Plusgas Dismantling Lubricant'. Mechanics have their favourite brand. Penetrates better engine hot.

There's various ways of electrically testing GP. One is disconnect and apply a feed to each one via a headlamp bulb. Another measure resistance when disconnected (test your tester before you test, because a GP (like injectors) is edge of measuring range of most testers).

[beclawrence007]

What's the status of them? I mean electrically. Is just one failed? Even in cold weather one failed GP just takes more cranking to start. Gradually disintegrating is better than leaving a half-broken one trying extract it. There's much better fluids to use than globally marketed WD40. WD40 isn't really meant for dismantling anyway. Stateside they use 'Pennoil' or something, in UK there's 'Plusgas Dismantling Lubricant'. Mechanics have their favourite brand. Penetrates better engine hot.

There's various ways of electrically testing GP. One is disconnect and apply a feed to each one via a headlamp bulb. Another measure resistance when disconnected (test your tester before you test, because a GP is edge of measuring range of most testers).

Well I don't actually know, I was told they need to be replaced. That is all I know really.
Have not had the dash light flash or stay on or anything though. The codes are for circuit and module. So I actually don't know 100% if they did the right test.
I know the harness thing was not disconnected and nothing was taken off to get to the plugs to actually test them individually. But apparently they are all done, he just tested it from the harness I think not sure.
I wonder if they are right. or is the only way to know for sure is to test them on the actual plug, as you can't get to them easily I know that was not done.

Okay I will have a look around for penetrating oils to use a few days before they are taken out. Can I do that and drive it like normal after spraying stuff around them?

[marcrbarker]

The mechanic likely utilised the self-test which is built in to vehicle electrical system without disturbing the GPs unneccesarily. Maybe he's looking for work without causing damage.
The module that supplies power to the GPs, also monitors each of the GP current consumption. If the current is not what expected the electical system throws error "glow plug n circuit...". The glowplug itself gets the blame because that's the name of the circuit in question and because it's unscrewable (theoretically). Garage might say "you remove them we'll fit new ones"! If the GP is actually OK but just has oxidised bad connection the system self-test isn't that clever, it'll still say "glow plug n circuit..."

I'm with Knobby, leave be carry on driving.

[beclawrence007]

The mechanic likely utilised the self-test which is built in to vehicle electrical system without disturbing the GPs unneccesarily. Maybe he's looking for work without causing damage.
The module that supplies power to the GPs, also monitors each of the GP current consumption. If the current is not what expected the electical system throws error "glow plug n circuit...". The glowplug itself gets the blame because that's the name of the circuit in question and because it's unscrewable (theoretically). Garage might say "you remove them we'll fit new ones"! If the GP is actually OK but just has oxidised bad connection the system self-test isn't that clever, it'll still say "glow plug n circuit..."

I'm with Knobby, leave be carry on driving.

Okay thanks so much That is helpful.
Appreciate it. Yeah I do have a feeling it is something electrical, as some other issues going on. It is going back to mechanics soon anyway to figure out some other stuff, but thanks for your help. Will just leave the plugs for now I think

[knobby1]

Hey,
I have heard wd40 is used alot but also penetrating oil is better? is that right?
is it okay to spray it on and then drive around?

Oh is it a euro 4? I thought it had a dpf, it is a VM model?
mmmmm well that is good to know if there is no dpf

Thanks

WD-40 is basically a penetrating oil/fluid...there are better alternatives though. Driving around with it sprayed on won't hurt anything but it will slowly evaporate away from the heat of the engine as it's essentially a hydrocarbon fluid, so it may be best to spray it liberally when you park up for the night and let it soak in overnight. Might smell a bit the next day but won't hurt anything. I'd be tempted to leave well enough alone though. On these machines the glow plugs are an "emissions" thing for when the engine is cold and only really run during start and for about 30-60 seconds after starting dependant on ambient temps....after that they just go along for the ride. As mentioned earlier, mine have been disconnected for years with no ill effects, my Euro-4 "VM" still starts fine.

The DPF was a fatory option on the Euro-4's but you'll not find them here in Australia unless it was a government requested fleet opton, even then it was never really a "thing" here in downunder land....the DPF was only a mandatory factory fit for the Euro-5 requirements on machines built from September 26th 2011 onwards. "VM" is just an "Aussie" thing for Mk7 which was first made from April 17th of 2006 to the end of 2014, (the earlier Mk6 was VH or VJ here in Aus). You'll not hear any other country refer to them as a "VM", especially on this primarily British forum.

Lord Knobrot

[marcrbarker]

40 (<coincidence!) years ago, having used Plusgas in a very old battered tin I was lent what I was unscrewing had practically dropped apart with I'd sprayed just a tiny amount. Since that day I never used WD40 again for anything with a thread.
Maybe the WD40 formula had changed over the decades I wouldn't know I seldom use it for anything other than things like stop chrome rusting or metal parts just been degreased.
The company that makes WD40 does actually make a dismantling lubricant! - but I can't say I'd seen it on sale anywhere.
just googled it's called 'specialist WD40 penetrating lubricant spray'.

[knobby1]

40 (<coincidence!) years ago, having used Plusgas in a very old battered tin I was lent what I was unscrewing had practically dropped apart with I'd sprayed just a tiny amount. Since that day I never used WD40 again for anything with a thread.
Maybe the WD40 formula had changed over the decades I wouldn't know I seldom use it for anything other than things like stop chrome rusting or metal parts just been degreased.
The company that makes WD40 does actually make a dismantling lubricant! - but I can't say I'd seen it on sale anywhere.
just googled it's called 'specialist WD40 penetrating lubricant spray'.

There's another one called "Mouse Milk" which we use in the aviation industry.....swear by it....but it's hard to get and very spendy.

Lord Knobrot

[Jim Archer]

As someone who spends his time trying to dismantle rusty/corroded sh*te and then making it shiney just so it can be let to go rusty again, I swear by a equal mix of old brake fluid/diesel/Acetone.

Being a Direct Injection design, and living in a warm climate, I doubt very much that your glow plugs do anything any way, in lovely sunny Blighty, mine would still start happily with frost on the screen and no working glow plugs. What I did notice was it ran much better at low rpms once they were sorted - mine being a 140.

Jim

[marcrbarker]

I swear by a equal mix of old brake fluid/diesel/Acetone.

I can vouch for that mix exactly too , those things really penetrate my 'go-to backup' if I'm visting anywhere who don't have dismantle spray around. I think you can tell how experienced a mechanic is about how he/she uses wd40.
Just remembered another niggle about using wd40 spray vs 3-in-one on a door hinge. Both stop the squeak at first but one of them attracts dust all over where sprayed a month later .

[beclawrence007]

Hey,
I have heard wd40 is used alot but also penetrating oil is better? is that right?
is it okay to spray it on and then drive around?

Oh is it a euro 4? I thought it had a dpf, it is a VM model?
mmmmm well that is good to know if there is no dpf

Thanks

WD-40 is basically a penetrating oil/fluid...there are better alternatives though. Driving around with it sprayed on won't hurt anything but it will slowly evaporate away from the heat of the engine as it's essentially a hydrocarbon fluid, so it may be best to spray it liberally when you park up for the night and let it soak in overnight. Might smell a bit the next day but won't hurt anything. I'd be tempted to leave well enough alone though. On these machines the glow plugs are an "emissions" thing for when the engine is cold and only really run during start and for about 30-60 seconds after starting dependant on ambient temps....after that they just go along for the ride. As mentioned earlier, mine have been disconnected for years with no ill effects, my Euro-4 "VM" still starts fine.

The DPF was a fatory option on the Euro-4's but you'll not find them here in Australia unless it was a government requested fleet opton, even then it was never really a "thing" here in downunder land....the DPF was only a mandatory factory fit for the Euro-5 requirements on machines built from September 26th 2011 onwards. "VM" is just an "Aussie" thing for Mk7 which was first made from April 17th of 2006 to the end of 2014, (the earlier Mk6 was VH or VJ here in Aus). You'll not hear any other country refer to them as a "VM", especially on this primarily British forum.

Lord Knobrot

Hey,
Thanks so much that makes me feel abit better about leaving them be. I will do that for now until I really need to do them.
Thanks for all your advice everyone
Bec