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HERE'S 'HOW TO' ON D.I.Y MARK 7 RWD GEARBOX PULLBACK/REMOVAL

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HERE'S 'HOW TO' ON D.I.Y MARK 7 RWD GEARBOX PULLBACK/REMOVAL

Postby simon3314 » Fri Jun 23, 2023 9:44 pm

MK 7 GEARBOX PULL BACK/REMOVAL. ALSO REQUIRED FOR INTERNAL CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER SWAP....
ALSO... 'RAISING A VAN & THEREFORE ENABLING D.I.Y A LOT !!!"


Tools. HI LIFT TROLLEY JACK. 4 AXLE STANDS .. If they are 'Domestic' axle stands then cut to size 4 heavy duty timber blocks.

Breaker bar/ Impact Wrench. 21 mm deep reach impact socket . And all the usual stuff

Purchase a tin of WD40 with the FLEXI HOSE . Try to find the time to apply to the following areas in advance. Combined with timing of application whilst on the job.

1. Park on level ground.
Using a Breaker bar or impact wrench 'Break' Front Wheel Nuts, Rear Wheel Nuts , 4 Gearbox Subframe Nuts & Bolts , Prop shaft to Gearbox Bolts. Apply WD40 into the 'breaks'.
ALSO CONSIDER WHAT JOBS YOU MIGHT END UP DOING.. (WHEEL BEARINGS? HALF SHAFTS?) 'BREAK' AS REQUIRED ON THE GROUND

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support with 'C' shaped or adequate 'V" shaped axle stands. On the axle !

Try to push the Van over.

Move to the front of the vehicle & clean the underside of the gearbox subframe so it's free of any grease or oil

Trolley jack placed under the centre of gearbox subframe (With a contact sheet of rubber) . Raise the front of the Vehicle.

Support the vehicle on axle stands (Ideally more of a 'T' shape or low 'V' shape. ***

*** THIS IS SUPPORTING THE VEHICLE BODY 'CHASSIS RAIL' JUST BEHIND THE GEARBOX SUBFRAME . NOT SUPPORTING THE GEARBOX SUBFRAME!

Try to push the van over.

Remove the front wheels

Disconnect the battery

Unclip the exhaust rubber bungs and move to as out of the way as possible.

Remove exhaust Heat shield.

'Score" the Prop shaft to Gearbox & prop shaft to rear Diff alignments with a Grinder or similar.

Remove the prop shaft.

Drain the clutch into a suitable container. Release Clutch pipe clip & tuck the pipe away from the gearbox.

Remove gearbox ancillaries. 2 tiny wires at the very rear. A difficult 'blind' clip electrical connection under the drivers floor.

Gear selection cables seem to simply push out with force. The Gearbox cable brackets. Pull on the serrated plastic cylinder to remove from the bracket.

Remove starter motor & tuck out of the way ideally all still connected.

Undo Gearbox bolts . Some very tricky ones under the drivers floor be patient & maybe just go & get the socket extentions & u/js.

Undo the 2 gearbox to gearbox subframe bolts . Rear underneath.

Lever the gearbox back to check for separation. Really need to get the gearbox spigot shaft visually clear. Of the clutch splines.


2.......... Place trolley jack with rubber contact sheet. under & support the gearbox subframe

Undo & remove the 4 nuts & bolts connecting the Gearbox subframe to the Vehicle body. The front 2 bolts require a 21mm Deep Reach impact
socket.

Slowly lower the trolley jack & check for a 'Free' gearbox. Adjust as required attempt if required. The gearbox should lower with the subfame
& not DROP !! onto the power steering lines.

BE AWARE THAT AT THIS MOMENT IT SHOULD BECOME A FREELY MOVING HEAVY GEARBOX AND IT'S UP TO YOU TO DECIDE IF YOU WANT A MORE
SUBSTANTIAL 'CATCH/HOLD/LOWER ' SAFETY EQUIPMENT OR IF YOU WANT TO PULL IT BACK TO CARRY OUT CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL & BELL
HOUSING WORK. I WAS AMING FOR THE LATTER AND JUST HAD THE WHOLE LOT HANGING/WEDGED !

ONCE THE GEARBOX SUB FRAME IS FULLY DISCONNECTED THE TROLLEY JACK CAN BE REMOVED OUT OF THE WAY!

THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY JUST HANGS ON THE FRONT SHOCKS !! HOW IT'S DESIGNED !



HOPE THIS HELPS !!! AND DON'T FORGET TO DO UP YOUR NUTS !!! ;-)
2009 MK7 TRANSIT 'JUMBO' 2.4 TDCi 115hp RWD
simon3314
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Re: HERE'S 'HOW TO' ON D.I.Y MARK 7 RWD GEARBOX PULLBACK/REM

Postby knobby1 » Fri Jun 23, 2023 10:53 pm

simon3314 wrote:MK 7 GEARBOX PULL BACK/REMOVAL. ALSO REQUIRED FOR INTERNAL CONCENTRIC SLAVE CYLINDER SWAP....
ALSO... 'RAISING A VAN & THEREFORE ENABLING D.I.Y A LOT !!!"


Tools. HI LIFT TROLLEY JACK. 4 AXLE STANDS .. If they are 'Domestic' axle stands then cut to size 4 heavy duty timber blocks.

Breaker bar/ Impact Wrench. 21 mm deep reach impact socket . And all the usual stuff

Purchase a tin of WD40 with the FLEXI HOSE . Try to find the time to apply to the following areas in advance. Combined with timing of application whilst on the job.

1. Park on level ground.
Using a Breaker bar or impact wrench 'Break' Front Wheel Nuts, Rear Wheel Nuts , 4 Gearbox Subframe Nuts & Bolts , Prop shaft to Gearbox Bolts. Apply WD40 into the 'breaks'.
ALSO CONSIDER WHAT JOBS YOU MIGHT END UP DOING.. (WHEEL BEARINGS? HALF SHAFTS?) 'BREAK' AS REQUIRED ON THE GROUND

Raise the rear of the vehicle and support with 'C' shaped or adequate 'V" shaped axle stands. On the axle !

Try to push the Van over.

Move to the front of the vehicle & clean the underside of the gearbox subframe so it's free of any grease or oil

Trolley jack placed under the centre of gearbox subframe (With a contact sheet of rubber) . Raise the front of the Vehicle.

Support the vehicle on axle stands (Ideally more of a 'T' shape or low 'V' shape. ***

*** THIS IS SUPPORTING THE VEHICLE BODY 'CHASSIS RAIL' JUST BEHIND THE GEARBOX SUBFRAME . NOT SUPPORTING THE GEARBOX SUBFRAME!

Try to push the van over.

Remove the front wheels

Disconnect the battery

Unclip the exhaust rubber bungs and move to as out of the way as possible.

Remove exhaust Heat shield.

'Score" the Prop shaft to Gearbox & prop shaft to rear Diff alignments with a Grinder or similar.

Remove the prop shaft.

Drain the clutch into a suitable container. Release Clutch pipe clip & tuck the pipe away from the gearbox.

Remove gearbox ancillaries. 2 tiny wires at the very rear. A difficult 'blind' clip electrical connection under the drivers floor.

Gear selection cables seem to simply push out with force. The Gearbox cable brackets. Pull on the serrated plastic cylinder to remove from the bracket.

Remove starter motor & tuck out of the way ideally all still connected.

Undo Gearbox bolts . Some very tricky ones under the drivers floor be patient & maybe just go & get the socket extentions & u/js.

Undo the 2 gearbox to gearbox subframe bolts . Rear underneath.

Lever the gearbox back to check for separation. Really need to get the gearbox spigot shaft visually clear. Of the clutch splines.


2.......... Place trolley jack with rubber contact sheet. under & support the gearbox subframe

Undo & remove the 4 nuts & bolts connecting the Gearbox subframe to the Vehicle body. The front 2 bolts require a 21mm Deep Reach impact
socket.

Slowly lower the trolley jack & check for a 'Free' gearbox. Adjust as required attempt if required. The gearbox should lower with the subfame
& not DROP !! onto the power steering lines.

BE AWARE THAT AT THIS MOMENT IT SHOULD BECOME A FREELY MOVING HEAVY GEARBOX AND IT'S UP TO YOU TO DECIDE IF YOU WANT A MORE
SUBSTANTIAL 'CATCH/HOLD/LOWER ' SAFETY EQUIPMENT OR IF YOU WANT TO PULL IT BACK TO CARRY OUT CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL & BELL
HOUSING WORK. I WAS AMING FOR THE LATTER AND JUST HAD THE WHOLE LOT HANGING/WEDGED !

ONCE THE GEARBOX SUB FRAME IS FULLY DISCONNECTED THE TROLLEY JACK CAN BE REMOVED OUT OF THE WAY!

THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY JUST HANGS ON THE FRONT SHOCKS !! HOW IT'S DESIGNED !



HOPE THIS HELPS !!! AND DON'T FORGET TO DO UP YOUR NUTS !!! ;-)


Umm, this is good info.....but nothing new...people have been pulling RWD gearboxes out of Mk7 2.4's for at least 17 years.

Lord Knobrot.
2008 2.4L RWD 170+PS 6-speed 350 LWB High Roof..."Full Poverty Spec".

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather, not screaming like the passengers in his car..!
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Re: HERE'S 'HOW TO' ON D.I.Y MARK 7 RWD GEARBOX PULLBACK/REM

Postby simon3314 » Fri Jun 23, 2023 11:11 pm

Ok It's just that I couldn't find it anywhere. Youtube proved difficult too. I might make a video.
2009 MK7 TRANSIT 'JUMBO' 2.4 TDCi 115hp RWD
simon3314
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Re: HERE'S 'HOW TO' ON D.I.Y MARK 7 RWD GEARBOX PULLBACK/REM

Postby Jim Archer » Mon Jun 26, 2023 11:12 am

Much the same as Mk6 RWD. If you tip the box over on to it's side, you can slide it back on the rear support cross member just enough to do a clutch/spigot bearing/slave cylinder - as in V fiddley, but do-able if unable to undo the cross member bolts.

Jim
Mk7 140 Jumbo - Vantunered.
289,000 and counting.
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Re: HERE'S 'HOW TO' ON D.I.Y MARK 7 RWD GEARBOX PULLBACK/REM

Postby simon3314 » Tue Jun 27, 2023 12:15 pm

I used a 3/4 inch impact wrench with a big 9 amp Hour battery. And those bolts needed it. With a good tight fitting heavy duty deep reach impact socket. (21 mm)

Well worth having control over the subframe IMO. Now that I have realised it's how it's designed.

Everything done back up with Anti Seize copper grease the van then becomes more of a 'Toy' or 'Rally Car Pitstop' kind of affair.
2009 MK7 TRANSIT 'JUMBO' 2.4 TDCi 115hp RWD
simon3314
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Posts: 102
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:43 pm

Re: HERE'S 'HOW TO' ON D.I.Y MARK 7 RWD GEARBOX PULLBACK/REM

Postby Jim Archer » Fri Jun 30, 2023 2:24 pm

Agreed, Transits are definitely getting into 'big bar' spannering territory.

Jim
Mk7 140 Jumbo - Vantunered.
289,000 and counting.
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