Still chasing that elusive generic fault code P00BD? I was until yesterday.
Having read most of the posts here and carefully inspecting the intercooler hoses with a fine tooth comb I knew there must be something else happening. Like many I changed the MAF and MAP, this was after I found faults with the Intercooler sensor and an actual hole in the intercooler! How unlucky was I that rectifying these did not see off the error codes - sometimes the Powertrain cog came up, sometimes the check engine light and sometimes both. They didn't always appear but removing the connector from the intercooler sensor made the van appear to run just fine and it never went into limp mode, I have no idea why that would be the case given that the intercooler sensor just measures temperature. Resistance meter readings on that sensor tell you if it is faulty or not. It might be my imagination but the fault usually appeared after goung up a hill or a sharp corner, maybe I just imagined that.
Anyway, I did change the fuel injector seals - 3 per injector. One thick heavy copper washer which seals the end of the injector from the cylinder head combustion chamber, one which seals the cam cover around the injector (mine were hard as a rock with age) and one very small green o-ring which goes into the fuel return pipe. It is worth replacing the whole return pipe at the same time as all of the o-rings will have degraded over time and it costs about £25. Whilst the injectors were out I carefully cleaned the whole thing with brake cleaner and when installing the thick copper washer, I used a dab of Loctite to prevent it sliding off into the cam cover when they were re-inserted. This is worth doing because it is quite fiddly to get the injectors back in with the clamp plate on at the same time.
A test drive and the van appears to be quieter and smoother and the error has gone (after a reset) and no more warning lights. Phew, I think I got there in the end. The parts are cheap and it doesn't take that long to do. The only other issue I encountered was that the high pressure fuel rail pipes feeding the injector were sized onto the nuts that you need to loosen off to remove the injector, some use WD40 on both ends of the pipes and leave to penetrate. Also, be careful when removing the metal clip that holds the fulel return pipe into the injector, it will want to ping off unless you control it and, when re-installing it take your time and make sure you do not let it go, it can disappear if you are not careful.


