What type of dual rear axle is this one?

[Rolo]

I finally came across a dual rear axle for sale only ten minutes from where I live (Tasmania, Australia) but I'm not sure what type it is and I was wondering if somebody here could help me.

The rims are the same as my Mark 1 but the rear of the springs, which are still attached to the axle, have shackles (which my Mark 1 never did), the spring saddles are on top of the axle, the flange that attaches the driveshaft to the axle looks different and bigger, and the axle has a bracket attached to it with a rubber grommet at the end of the bracket which I believe is designed to mount a brake fluid balancing valve so that the rear wheels don't lock when the rear doesn't have any load, which my Mark 1 never had either and I don't believe I need since this is a camper van and it's always "loaded". (2.9 tons, to be precise, and that's with just one person on board and no provisions)

All the guy can tell me is that it came out of a Ford Transit cab chassis, "possibly a 4 cylinder" (which means the diff ratio is not necessarily a 4.63:1? - no tag), and it needs new wheel bearings.

Condition or noise (whine) levels unknown and I'll go to see it again with more time sometime in the next few days with some tools and a measuring tape to check things more closely although I managed to measure the brake shoes, with the metal part being 75 mm wide and the "asbestos" part 60 mm wide.

The spring saddles being on top of the axle is something I can take care of.

My understanding is that Mark 2 dual axles have wider brake shoes than Mark 1, which is something I want, but I don't know what the measurements are, and my axle leaks and whines.

Can the condition and noise level of a crown and pinion be judged just by looking at it?

And does anybody have any idea of what vehicle this axle could possibly have come out of?

If this axle is a few inches longer than a standard Mark 1 (up to 4") it would be great, if the diff ratio is slower than 4.63:1 it wouldn't be so good although one a bit faster, up/down? to 4.1:1 would be perfect, and should I be able to remove the bearing that joins the cut off driveshaft to the axle (still attached) and use the same bearing to attach my (whole) driveshaft to this axle?

What else should I measure to help identify it?

[FredTransit]

You got me there, a picture would really help.

[Rolo]

You got me there, a picture would really help.

So you don't believe that a thousand words are worth a picture?

I haven't even been able to open a picture somebody was kind enough to post for my benefit and you ask me to *send* you one?

[FredTransit]

Have you seen the instructions on how to post piccies at the top of the gallery? First you will need a phtobucket account.

[Gunslinger]

Sounds like G type axle to me

Yes the bracket and grommet is part of the load apportioning valve setup

the diff ratio will be 4.63:1 .... 5.14:1 or 5.83:1 ...... 4.63:1 being the most common and fitted to most diesels

check for excessive play in the flange when you turn it this will give you some indication of wear also front to back movement in the housing, it wont tell you much but it will tell you a little

take the rear cover off and look for fine metal bits in it, and also at the general wear pattern on the gearing, have a look on the edge of the crown wheel and you should see the ratio stamped on it

Rear Bearings are tapered so can be adjusted

here is the section from the mk2 workshop manual here in the uk

http://rapidshare.de/files/14867680/Rear_Axle.pdf.html

leave the spring sadles where they are and you'll get a little more ground clearance but watch out for the prop angle from the centre bearing back, if its too great you'll trash bearings constantly

mk1 to mk2 comparisons i am nt fully sure of sorry (only thing i do know is that mk1's tended not to have shackle at the rear so you will have to fudge some sort of mounting point for the shackle)

[Rolo]

Have you seen the instructions on how to post piccies at the top of the gallery? First you will need a phtobucket account.

Seeing and understanding are two different things.

Even though I can assemble a whole computer I have ten thumbs and a BIG mental block when it comes to software.

That picture that somebody posted is now downloaded on my desktop but I cannot open it because of some software problem in my PC that stops me from opening 3/4 of all attachments.

[Gunslinger]

if your reffering to that post above of mine ... it wasnt a picture, it was a pdf file, you need "adobe acrobat reader" to open it

[Rolo]

Sounds like G type axle to me

What's a "G type", and "phase" in the context of model?

the diff ratio will be 4.63:1 .... 5.14:1 or 5.83:1 ...... 4.63:1 being the most common and fitted to most diesels

It looks as if in Australia they used the diesel diff (and diesel front grill nose plus a "dog house" under the dash) in any Mark 1 when they fitted a Falcon six cylinder engine, with the other diff ratios reserved for the four cylinder petrol engines.

With the Mark 2s they used only one type of grill nose.

take the rear cover off and look for fine metal bits in it, and also at the general wear pattern on the gearing, have a look on the edge of the crown wheel and you should see the ratio stamped on it

I'm hoping against hope that it has a 4.1:1 diff ratio (apparently some company was making aftermarket Transit crown and pinions at some stage) but I'll be happy enough if it is a 4.63:1, like the one I have already.

How expensive it is to recondition a whining diff?

Do some Mark 1's come with those load apportioning setups for the brakes, too?

I'm not really interested in that setup because this camper never travels light but I want to find out what Transit this axle came from because I'm trying to find out if this axle has better (wider) brake shoes than my Mark 1.

The brakes metal part is 75 mm wide and the shoe 'asbestos' part is 60 mm wide in this axle, if anybody can help there.

here is the section from the mk2 workshop manual here in the uk

http://rapidshare.de/files/14867680/Rear_Axle.pdf.html

That's the same page from where I downloaded some picture that I haven't been able to open yet because of software and greyware problems.

leave the spring sadles where they are and you'll get a little more ground clearance

I was planning to do exactly that but coupled to some work with the springs to gain ONLY 1-1.5" extra height.

but watch out for the prop angle from the centre bearing back, if its too great you'll trash bearings constantly

I thought that problem happened only when that angle was made less acute, not more; was I wrong?

[Rolo]

if your reffering to that post above of mine ... it wasnt a picture, it was a pdf file, you need "adobe acrobat reader" to open it

"Cannot play back the file. The format is not supported. (Error=80040265)" comes up within a Windows Media Player box even though I do have Adobe Acrobat 7 installed.

I'll see if I can find a volunteer this afternoon to help me sort out this problem.

[Gunslinger]

What's a "G type", and "phase" in the context of model?

A "G" Type axle refers to the twin rear wheel versions, in this version the rear wheel bearings are lubricated using the rear diff oil, the diff is removed via the back of the axle by removing the cover

I'm hoping against hope that it has a 4.1:1 diff ratio (apparently some company was making aftermarket Transit crown and pinions at some stage) but I'll be happy enough if it is a 4.63:1, like the one I have already.

How expensive it is to recondition a whining diff?

You'll be lucky, like i said, over here that ratio was not available for this axle

I am not sure on the cost, but if you can find a complete diff then that might be easier and cheaper, dropping the diff in is not as simple as it sounds because the whole arrangement is on adjustable roller taper carrier bearings on either side, so in order to get the backlash and gear meshing correct you are supposed to follow the procedure laid out in the workshop manual (i cheated, and will be taking mine to the local commercial repair place that have the tools and experience )

Do some Mark 1's come with those load apportioning setups for the brakes, too?

as far as i know, yes

That's the same page from where I downloaded some picture that I haven't been able to open yet because of software and greyware problems.

thats a file sharing site, so if i uploaded a picture you'd get a picture, if i uploaded a program that's what you'd get, sounds like you did something wrong and didn't download the correct thing

I thought that problem happened only when that angle was made less acute, not more; was I wrong?

as far as i know, the greater the angle the greater the forces on the bearing ... hence the shorter the life span of the bearing and in particular the UJ's