Adblue light straight away on ignition on

[Ryan9153]

Hi guys unusual one, I have a 2015 2.2L transit, as soon as you put ignition on the adblue warning goes off, I’ve had it in to 2 garages and they don’t know what is wrong, I’m now down to 1 mile before none start. I had no fault codes at first but now showing soot content accumulation. I had a guy out who cleaned the dpf out £400 and lasted a week before fault back, this was while I still had 300 miles odd before none start. The adblue tank is definitely full was filled to the brim, but still light had come on the moment the ignition is turned on. I’m basically stuck now because in another mile it won’t start. Anybody had this before or anything similar, no codes in the reductant module according to Forscan, Thinkcar, Launch etc. Honestly don’t know what to do garages have no clue? Many thanks.

[metalworker0]

That's a hard one with no codes

Suggest you disconnect battery .. leave for 15 mins .. re-connect.

a blocked DPF can trigger adblue warnings .. so i read

If £400 clean was done in-situ (excessive charge, that would shock me) ./ and only half temporarily worked
... in cases of totally clogged DPF ... taking it off , blocking one end .. leaning against wall ,, filling with chemical couple maybe 3 pints or as much as a gallon .. then flushing with pressure washer is the ONLY next step - your job ... unless you want to pay more hundreds £££££ or new DPF

Possible causes of blocked DPF so soon after cleaning:

Vaporiser not working blocked
EGR open faults
Turbo actuator faults
Boost pipe leaks
MAf / air temperature sensor fault
Worn engine burning oil
Worn turbo leaking oil
Injector seals causing crankcase pressure which leads to high oil consumption
Constant short trips

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

Forgot ... DPF - leave overnight with the chemicals in it

further research suggests:

It's possible for adblue to crystallise in the tank .. so making the float stick .. the remedy is taking the tank off and cleaning it ..

i have read that buying adblue that has been left in direct sunlight all summer is not recommended (you often see it outside a petrol station on the forecourt).. so don't use your recent adblue batch .. if you find crystallisation in the tank.

all the best.mark

[Frag]

2.2 2015 with ad-blue,so is this a RWD 17 seater minibus ?

[dumper]

Looking on YouTube at O’Reilly Auto‘s mobile mechanic some vehicles not necessary transit if you overfill it can cause problems he’s had to drain them off before to sort problems out. It might be worth taking it to him. He’s the man on Dpf definitely and as frag says the only 2.2 with addblue is a bus as they had to comply with euro 6 a year before vans did

[Ryan9153]

That's a hard one with no codes

Suggest you disconnect battery .. leave for 15 mins .. re-connect.

a blocked DPF can trigger adblue warnings .. so i read

If £400 clean was done in-situ (excessive charge, that would shock me) ./ and only half temporarily worked
... in cases of totally clogged DPF ... taking it off , blocking one end .. leaning against wall ,, filling with chemical couple maybe 3 pints or as much as a gallon .. then flushing with pressure washer is the ONLY next step - your job ... unless you want to pay more hundreds £££££ or new DPF

Possible causes of blocked DPF so soon after cleaning:

Vaporiser not working blocked
EGR open faults
Turbo actuator faults
Boost pipe leaks
MAf / air temperature sensor fault
Worn engine burning oil
Worn turbo leaking oil
Injector seals causing crankcase pressure which leads to high oil consumption
Constant short trips

all the best.mark

Vaporiser has been off and cleaned, no faults with turbo or oil problems, I’ve done all the tests and correct amount of Adblue is being injected, the only thing I can see that is wrong is in the live data the reductant temperature sensor is reading 6.55volts, where as I’ve tested another one and it reads 1.3volts if the same test conditions are adhered to. So I’m thinking there is either a fault with this sensor or it’s wiring but I don’t know where it is? Is it part of the adblue tank do you know? I will try the battery disconnect for longer but I think I did that before. Many many thanks for your help.

[Ryan9153]

2.2 2015 with ad-blue,so is this a RWD 17 seater minibus ?

Yes bud it is

[Ryan9153]

Looking on YouTube at O’Reilly Auto‘s mobile mechanic some vehicles not necessary transit if you overfill it can cause problems he’s had to drain them off before to sort problems out. It might be worth taking it to him. He’s the man on Dpf definitely and as frag says the only 2.2 with addblue is a bus as they had to comply with euro 6 a year before vans did

The problem was there before I even tried topping up the adblue tank so I will try to drain and refill it but I don’t think it’s this, all the live data regarding the tank level reads correctly it says 100%, 9.55 litres, the tank level sensor is part of the adblue heater which I’ve replaced as it was reading 4 ohms across the heater and is now 2 ohms so that’s ok.

[Ryan9153]

Forgot ... DPF - leave overnight with the chemicals in it

further research suggests:

It's possible for adblue to crystallise in the tank .. so making the float stick .. the remedy is taking the tank off and cleaning it ..

i have read that buying adblue that has been left in direct sunlight all summer is not recommended (you often see it outside a petrol station on the forecourt).. so don't use your recent adblue batch .. if you find crystallisation in the tank.

all the best.mark

Thanks Mark, I have replaced the adblue heater in the tank and I’m pretty sure part of that is the adblue level sensor, there was no crystallisation in the tank, I really think I need to address this reductant heater sensor reading 6.55 volts as I tested another vehicle that doesn’t have this fault and checked it’s data exact same minibus and it’s sensor was reading 1.3volts. I believe this to be my issue but I don’t know where this sensor is.

[metalworker0]

Well, if you went to ford they would sell you the whole tank with the heater in it .. Probably i excess of £1000

ive just searched ebay and the heater is available separately ----cheapest £160

search words adblue heater 2.2 transit - but read below first

note: these add blue heaters are the same in other vehicles, ford, Peugeot , Citroen Vauxhall, even Mercedes etc , different tank same old adblue heater

You could get the price down by doing more research .. pull the heater out and it will have a manufacturers number on it... use that number to get the heaters price down in ebay search.


NOTE EBAYS SEARCH NOW WORKS DIFFERENTLY THAN YOU USED TO THINK,, you order the price lowest first ... looks lowest, but it really isn't , you only see the lowest prices "in the other sellers have these" results on a listing you are looking at .. repeatably pressing on these adverts , has other "adds" coming up that are lower... keep going until you see the lowest of the low -- the actual lowest i got it down to was £125 some results are way way and way down at the bottom

There are youtube videos on how to fix these problems with heater , level sensors etc ... they are detailed // dont search transit look at every make, as, as said same old heater... there are people out there who don't want to be ripped off and have worked out the cheapest fix for this problem whilst permanently fixing it the proper way and remaining legal.

would not be surprised if you could do this fix with brand new parts for under £50. with youtubes help

its not me that does this research its you .. as you are the one with the problem


all the best.mark

[dumper]

When you say it’s 100% and 9 lts im sure mine took 20 lts when the warning came on saying 500 miles range left approximately it would first come on anywhere from 350 the lowest to 740 the highest it flagged up

[Ryan9153]

Well, if you went to ford they would sell you the whole tank with the heater in it .. Probably i excess of £1000

ive just searched ebay and the heater is available separately ----cheapest £160

search words adblue heater 2.2 transit - but read below first

note: these add blue heaters are the same in other vehicles, ford, Peugeot , Citroen Vauxhall, even Mercedes etc , different tank same old adblue heater

You could get the price down by doing more research .. pull the heater out and it will have a manufacturers number on it... use that number to get the heaters price down in ebay search.


NOTE EBAYS SEARCH NOW WORKS DIFFERENTLY THAN YOU USED TO THINK,, you order the price lowest first ... looks lowest, but it really isn't , you only see the lowest prices "in the other sellers have these" results on a listing you are looking at .. repeatably pressing on these adverts , has other "adds" coming up that are lower... keep going until you see the lowest of the low -- the actual lowest i got it down to was £125 some results are way way and way down at the bottom

There are youtube videos on how to fix these problems with heater , level sensors etc ... they are detailed // dont search transit look at every make, as, as said same old heater... there are people out there who don't want to be ripped off and have worked out the cheapest fix for this problem whilst permanently fixing it the proper way and remaining legal.

would not be surprised if you could do this fix with brand new parts for under £50. with youtubes help

its not me that does this research its you .. as you are the one with the problem


all the best.mark

Hi bud and thanks for the reply, it’s not the heater that’s at fault I have replaced that it’s the reductant heater temperature sensor that is reading 6.55 volts and I have no clue where this sensor is to even test it? The heater that comes with the level sensor come as one unit, I got it from parts plus who supply genuine Ford parts it cost me around £400 just under I think, but this is not my problem. It’s something to do with this reductant tank temperature sensor but I just can’t find anything about where this part is. Thanks

[Ryan9153]

When you say it’s 100% and 9 lts im sure mine took 20 lts when the warning came on saying 500 miles range left approximately it would first come on anywhere from 350 the lowest to 740 the highest it flagged up

Hi bud thanks for reply so the adblue malfunction came on before the adblue tank was touched, as a matter of course I topped it right up, but the warning stayed on, the live data using various diag tools says in the RCM that the level is 100% full and litres above 9.55 I think or something like that but will check in a while. Either way I’ve had my diag on another transit with same system and it reads the same. The only live data difference is this reductant temperature sensor which is reading 6.55volts on mine on the other one I tested its reading 1.3volts. I would think if that is a max 5 volt then it just shouldn’t be above 5 volts. I just have no info on where this sensor or it’s wiring is?

[Ryan9153]

So little update and will keep this post updated as to if and when I find a fix. Took out from the adblue tank the part I replaced known as the adblue heater. Now there are quite a few wires on it so I think the temperature sensor is also part of it. I have two thick wires 1 red and 1 white these are the adblue heater element wires. Then I have another 5 wires, small white, yellow, blue, red and grey. The grey joins a black in the same loom. There are what looks like two probes which I’m guessing that 1 is the tank level sensor and the other possibly the temp sensor where I think my fault could be as it’s reading 6.55 volts. Can anyone confirm or deny that the temperature sensor for the adblue tank is part of this unit.

[metalworker0]

i had a feeling the temp sensor was within that heater unit that why i said buy one of those heaters ..

TESTING - it may be this way --- i'm not certain
first you need the wiring digram to work out the colours of the wires

nowa days temperature sensors work in a peculiar way. they are called K-TYPE THERMOCOUPLES

from wiki
A Type K temperature sensor, also known as a thermocouple, works based on the Seebeck effect, which creates a voltage when two different metals are connected and exposed to a temperature difference. In a Type K thermocouple, the metals are Chromel (nickel-chromium alloy) and Alumel (nickel-aluminum alloy). When these metals are joined, and one junction is exposed to a temperature gradient (a temperature difference), a voltage is generated, proportional to the temperature difference. This voltage can be measured and correlated to the temperature using standard calibration tables or electronic devices.

ive delved into this before

so answers .. my own from a while back

First check continuity between the two wires of the thermocouple. If you have continuity it's probably fine. Usually they are either good or bad, but in rare cases they can be compromised by corrosion or something. To check if it's accurate you'll need a voltage meter than can read millivolts. Put the leads on each wire of the thermocouple. At 32*F the voltage across them will be zero. As temp increases the voltage goes up. 70*F will be .843 and 1000*F will be 22.251. I'll attach one of the standard voltage/temp charts for type K.

chart

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/atta ... download=1

chart is mind boggling --- like a bus time table for the whole of a county....im sure a simplified one can be found

so basically your BCM knows what these voltages are for given temperatures .. and it does the maths


the thermocouple may be available for a couple of pounds on ebay


AND first though ... as with all of these mind numbing electronic faults, see first answer about disconnecting battery for 15 mins, and making sure all your electrical system .. battery voltage , earths are up to scratch

all the best.mark