injector pump leak2001 260 swb possibly BODGED fixed

[sams]

hi I've got a 260 swb which leaks diesel from the cap on the injector pump between the injector pipes. my dad whos an old style mechanic (pre electronic) has taken the starter motor of removed the cap put some silicon rubber in it and replaced it. It ran OK before bodge it still runs OK now but it still leaks. What is the sealant ford uses... black rubbery stuff? any suggestions for how to stop leak? Help Diana DONE BODGE SEE POST 9/10

[marshyboy]

hi there dont no wot fords use but you could an o ring rubber which you could get an assorted size pack from some where like wickes or bq for about £2 one of them in the pack should fit hope this helps marshy

[sams]

don't think its an O ring job as the whole cap is filled with black rubber stuff and there's a hole in the end of it as well . cap is round but with a bit sticking out on one side and cap is about18mm deep. most of the leak is from the hole on the end diana

[Panage]

Dont bother sealing it, it does'nt work. I've tried most things with varying amount of success and now it does'nt work at all. on mine, what looks like this edge of the circuit board under the plastic its leaking trough there and it's a bit perrished so sealants don't stick to it i've ended up ordering a new one now im fed up with it. sorry just trying to save you some time and money as it's a total pain to get to.

[ake]

The solenoid needs to be replaced

[sams]

so if we have to change the solenoid can anyone suggest the best place to get one? And can anybody tell us how to do it on a 2001 260 swb reg x922uot vehicle identification no. BDFU1J47040 as Haynes manual isn't much help! I've got the resonator box and manifold of and can get the starter of easy enough , the castleated ring that holds the solenoid in moves if I tap it with a drift so I guess I can manage without the special tool (or can I?) the wires from the solenoid go into an aluminium box with 5 torx screws on the top of the pump, is this where they disconnect? Help please Diana (age20) all depressed as she's only had the van for a little while and its her first vehicle and she was just getting used to being mobile( we fitted it out as a camper van with an espresso machine so its home and business to her. See www.samssauna.com or sams sauna on facebook). I'm her dad an old style mechanic who doesn't understand these modern things. mark

[H4rry]

i brought one from carwoods in oldbury birmingham.approx 220.00 plus vat undo the bolt the way your doing it and cut the wires dont remove the box lid,resolder the wires does not matter what way round............
ive done the job myself you will not stop it from leeking with sealer...

[Panage]

Are there different types of this solenoid for the vp30 pump, eg one for the 85ps and a different one for the 100ps transit? just want to make sure i get the right one.
Secondly once fitted does it need to be alligned specifically with any thing, or is it just plug and play (if that makes sense?).

[H4rry]

just give carwoods your serial number off the pump and they will give you the right solenoid,just plug it in and off you go!

[sams]

our local ford dealer Dolgellau quoted £550 for getting the pump reconditioned plus about 3 hours labour. we found that fort doesn't do the part anymore so thought if it has to be replaced might as well try fixing it so removed resonator box and inlet manifold injector pipes and stubs and starter then removed solenoid after cutting wires at different lengths using a long piece of 1/2 inch bar with end ground square with angled end to make nice contact with castleated ring and hit it with big hammer. took the silver cap of, removed screw in centre of plastic bit and plastic bit that covers wires where they exit silver cover then ground wires away where they contact contacts using dremel with small round burr ( tried unsoldering but decided they weren't soldered after melting plastic bit) removed plastic bit then thoroughly cleaned end of solenoid using dremel and various diamond bits finally used pointed diamond cone with small ball on end to chase round join between casing and solenoid insert (tried removing but thought it likely to damage casing). Coated end of solenoid with araldite except screw hole then replaced plastic bit and screw then squashed plastic bit hardish onto solenoid with vise until glue set made up new wires and soldered onto contacts ( couldn't find wires the same as original so used wire with same thickness core and thicker insulation )coated inside of silver cap with araldite especially around edge and where wires exit ( couldn't refit plastic cover over wires as insulation to thick) using vise to hold in place until epoxy set then glued patch cut out of bottom of paint tin onto end of silver cover. refitted solenoid using copper grease under castle nut and medium grease on O rings, refitted one of the stubs in the 2 o clock position so I could put an about 6:1 wooden wedge between it and solenoid cap to stop the valve rotating as I tightened castle ring with drift and hammer. soldered wires (with joins out of line with each other)and coated joints with epoxy after cleaning with cellulose thinners (which i used for cleaning all parts) then wrapped in insulating tape. Reassembled engine and started. No leak so far but only done about 10 miles Will come back and tell if leak developes as I'll be asking where to get new solenoid in that case. Hopefully hoping mark

[sams]

done another 50 miles still OK bodge seems to work marktinkerman

[winterheating]

well done
sounds like should be ok
think a few other people have succeded also.
it seems that this solonoid meters the fuel from inlet (low pressure) to the high pressure chamber inside pump, so the sealer does not have to hold back upto 1500bar of pressure.

i also tried this but did not leave it long enough
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54578&hilit=+bodge

[winterheating]

done another 50 miles still OK bodge seems to work marktinkerman

so did you take the screw and plastic part off which i dared not to

[sams]

yes removed plastic bit had to grind wires of contacts as we don't think they are soldered did a few more miles yesterday still OK diana and marktinkerman

[Panage]

I tried araldite and i got about 20miles out of it, fair play if it works for you. I ended up buying a new one for £224 inc vat fitted it today but the thing still won't start, seems ever sinse i took the sensor out to inspect it after the last failed bodge.
Tried everything but it's having non of it. I can get it to run but only with the starter moter going and a can of easystart on constant but then cuts when you stop.
My last idea is to tow it with a landy.
I've totaly bled the system so theres definatly diesel at the injectors im starting to think the pump may be shot
Has any one else sufferd starting issues after changing the solenoid if so what was the problem?