OIL DISAPPEARING

[Keef]

Were the valve clearances ok? I've had vans where the gaps were 2 or 3 times what they should be and improved the fuel consumption by 5 mpg just by doing the valves.

It's best to remove the butterfly, undo the small torx screws on the shaft, grab the butterfly with pliers and pull it from the slot in the shaft.
If you can't get it off, just cable tie it in the open position, pull the actuating rod off at both ends and you're done.

Once you've made sure the air filter is clean, redirected the rocker breather away from the inlet manifold and removed the butterfly your engine should be getting plenty of clean air.

If it still burns oil, it's probably just a worn engine.

[dave_dave]

i dont have feeler guages, but will be getting some tomorrow. gives me chance to have a good read up tonight as i have never adjusted valve clearances before!!

Air filter is a little grubby but nothing out of the ordinary! no gunk oil or sludge just abit dusty and dirty

So i can blank the oil breather pipe leading into the intake manifold and just redirect the oil breather into a catch tank? it doesnt need to be a closed loop system?

Im thinking its a very worn engine so i will be getting a new one fitted when back in the uk if this is the case!!

Does the rocker assembly look good to you?

Thanks!

[Keef]

I can't really get the pics large enough to tell on this small screen but if all the bolts are in and tight then it should be fine.

Yes you can blank the inlet manifold. The breather does need to be able to vent, you can turn the rocker cap to point the breather in any direction you want and fit a homemade catch tank using whatever you've got lying around.



If you've got this far, setting the valves will be no problem for you. From memory you'll need an 18mm for the crank pulley bolt to rotate the engine (only clockwise) and on this engine DO NOT use the 'rule of 9' you may read about online, only use the order below.

I normally do them once then just run through them again to double check.

warm or cold inlet 0.20mm (0.008") exhaust 0.38mm (0.015")

with 1 and 6 fully open - adjust valves 4 [inlet] and 7 [exhaust]

valves 2 and 3 fully open - adjust valves 5 ex and 8 in

valves 4 and 7 fully open - adjust valves 1 ex and 6 in

valves 5 and 8 fully open - adjust valves 2 in and 3 ex

Rotate the engine clockwise only between adjustments

[dave_dave]

ok great stuff ill get onto that right away!

but as for the valve clearance adjustment its all french to me! i dont even know which valves are 1 & 6 or 4 & 7.
think i might do more harm than good!

[dave_dave]

could somebody give me a run down on adjusting the valve clearance please.
only info i an find is the gap needed and what valves to adjust and when but unfortunatly this is useless info unless you actually know how to do the job.

ive read various posts on other forums about the actual process and watched many videos on youtube but it really makes no sence to me when i look at my engine!!

any help is greatly appreciated as i am in a very small town here at the moment with no mechanic and seems stupid to put it all back together without doing the valve clearances!!

Thanks guys!

[Keef]

Back to basics then

The valves are the bits with a coil spring around them on the left hand side looking from the front

They are sequentially numbered 1-8 with 1 being closest to the front of the engine and 8 being at the back of the engine
Valves 2, 4, 6, & 8 are inlet valves
Valves 1, 3, 5 & 7 are exhaust valves

So for example, when the rockers push valves 1 & 6 to their lowest point, you will find valves 4 & 7 have a gap between the top of the valve and the rocker which you measure with your feeler gauge.

If the gap between the top of the valve and the rocker is too large, you need to tighten the adjuster until the gap is correct as in this illustration except that instead of an adjuster and locknut your engine just has a self tightening adjuster so you simply tighten or loosen it as required. An alternative name for the rocker is the tappet.

When correct, the gap should give a slight drag on the feeler gauge as if it were magnetic.
It's worth taking your time and getting them right.

[dave_dave]

perfect.
thats what i was thinking but thought i would clarify before going ahead and mucking something up!!

Thanks for all your help! hopefully get my feeler guages tomorrow and i can get cracking and get it all back together in the afternoon!

then get a new engine put in when im back to the uk so all this will be worthless haha oh well, learning curve i suppose. no doubt ill be doing it all again on the new lump!

[dave_dave]

so im going to take the fan off tomorrow just to make it easier to get to the crankshaft nut.....
whats the easiest way to go about this??

[twin wheel camper]

It looks to me on my phone at least that you have a missing 10mm bolt second from the front in your picture there should be 4 and I can only see 3 check for yourself maybe it's the small screen on my phone but it looks missing
If it's missing it will be in under the camshaft etc so just refit it and make sure the others are all tight

[robbie.cee]

Any updates on this?

[dave_dave]

Will be getting the valve clearances done tomorrow morning then will have it all back together by the afternoon if all goes well and will update you then

[dave_dave]

ok then i am happy to say that due to the help on here i have successfully adjested my valves and got the engine back together! it sounds much healthier now and i was shocked at some of the vavle clearances........ some needed about 1/4 turn to get them to the right gap, dont know if this is reletivly normal or not but seems excessive to me! anyway its done now and seems much better.

but thats where my joy ends. i have re rerouted the oil breather to a catch can rather than back into the intake manifold and i am getting alot of smoke out of it on tick over. i guess my rings are pretty fried!

i had the van running for about half hour while i cleaned up my tools and what not and when i was giving it a final check at the end i noticed that some of the pipes from the injectors are wet. im sure they were cream colour before and dry but now two of them are black and wet...... i have uploaded a pic and you can see the one in the middle is cream colour and dry and the two either side are black and wet!!
no idea if this is bad or normal, please help!!

Thanks guys and i hope this thread will be as useful to somebody else as it has been to me!

[andz327]

If its the leak off pipes your talking about and its wet its either cracked rubber or slack fitting and leaking diesel

[dave_dave]

just got back from a drive. Did about 3/40 miles and got it running up to temp for a good while.

it seems to run alot nicer now, has more pull up the hills i think and im only getting a little black smoke under heavy load now whereas i was getting a fair amount of black clouds before hand.
im wondering if running the breather into a catch can rather than back into the air intake may fix the over fueling? would be getting more clean air now compared to before when some was made up of blow by from the crank case breather?

i am however getting alot of white smoke from my catch can vent which im guessing is all the blow by gass. smoke is white an constant even when its hot as when its cold.
but again im not getting much smoke from the exhaust now.....

so its running much nicer and seems to have a little more go but at the end of the day i think the rings are still pretty fried! hence all the smoke from the catch can. somebody correct me if im wrong, would make my day!

Cheers guys!