Wheel Bearing Settings & Torque Advice

[AndyG]

Could it be a late registered MK5 and he "thinks" it is a FWD

Or has someone put a Di in his Mkk6

[100ps_drw_hicube]

Could it be a late registered MK5 and he "thinks" it is a FWD

ye was just thinking that does it look like mrmpuk's pic ??? the red one??

[MrMPuk]

Maybe you should post some pictures of your van mauser! Maybe you have some dodgy ringed thing!

[motorwise]

Maybe you should post some pictures of your van mauser! Maybe you have some dodgy ringed thing!

don't tell me that ringer I did has come back to bite me

[Mauser]

https://www.hpicheck.com/consumer/?supp ... rm=Y932TVP
According to the checker above its a 2496cc , only difference is the year but its a new shape and FWD and looks like picture with the nice grill and central locking and as soon its light I will post some pictures.
I like a good plot...I am sure its straight just was built on the day the swapped from old style to new, all the insurance companies seem to see it as 2496 model.
Thanks Simon

[MrMPuk]

I will wait for your pictures, but something is not right!

[motorwise]

https://www.hpicheck.com/consumer/?supplier=&vrm=Y932TVP
According to the checker above its a 2496cc , only difference is the year but its a new shape and FWD and looks like picture with the nice grill and central locking and as soon its light I will post some pictures.
I like a good plot...I am sure its straight just was built on the day the swapped from old style to new, all the insurance companies seem to see it as 2496 model.
Thanks Simon

thats shown as a 100 SWB?

[AndyG]

https://www.hpicheck.com/consumer/?supplier=&vrm=Y932TVP
According to the checker above its a 2496cc , only difference is the year but its a new shape and FWD and looks like picture with the nice grill and central locking and as soon its light I will post some pictures.
I like a good plot...I am sure its straight just was built on the day the swapped from old style to new, all the insurance companies seem to see it as 2496 model.
Thanks Simon

thats shown as a 100 SWB?

And what else You should know

[MrMPuk]

That's what I mean, if it wasn't for the fact he says it's front wheel drive I would say late registered Mk5.

[motorwise]

https://www.hpicheck.com/consumer/?supplier=&vrm=Y932TVP
According to the checker above its a 2496cc , only difference is the year but its a new shape and FWD and looks like picture with the nice grill and central locking and as soon its light I will post some pictures.
I like a good plot...I am sure its straight just was built on the day the swapped from old style to new, all the insurance companies seem to see it as 2496 model.
Thanks Simon

thats shown as a 100 SWB?

And what else You should know

I know nothing Mr Fawlty

[Mauser]

Here are the photo's as promised .
I think you will find its FWD as I said
I have got the torque screws out they were number 50 size, but for the life of me I cannot get the hub to come off ?, any idea's.

[Nighthawk]

Only the 2000-2006 and 2006---> Transits had the bearings held against the spindle carrier with torx bolts

50 Torx is the size of the bolts and they need to be tightened to 69Nm from memory.

the centre nut on the driveshaft spindle is a 32mm and that has a torque of 430Nm, again from memory

If you don't tighten that big nut up to the correct setting, the bearings will die quite quickly

With the bearing bolts out, you can press the bearing out of the spindle carrier with 2 long 19mm headed bolts and nuts. you'll need to undo the 2 18mm headed bolts from the brake caliper and move it out of the way (this needs to be done in order to get the disc off anyway)

push 1 of the bolts through the hole where the brake caliper bolt was, and then fit a nut on to it.

Place something hard and flat between the brake disc and the bolt/nut

hold the nut and tighten the bolt against the disc,

do the same with the other bolt in the other caliper mounting hole

with careful and even pressure the bearing will push out of the spindle carrier, so make sure your ready to catch it!!!

with yours being a FWD the driveshaft will complicate things, so a soft mallet on the shaft as you tighten the bolts will help.

clean everything and copperslip the tight spots on the build up.


Hope that helps

[Mauser]

Thanks Nighthawk,
Drive shaft nut is 36mmAF which cost me a tenner, have undone this and the 5 torque screws, and also tried your suggestion. Last job was engineer for 20 years so have been trying different options to pull the bearing out, your way was my last attempt but due to the fact there are 5 bolts it makes the pulling off-centre when using 2 bolts to extract the unit.
Its just seems very solid even a few taps with a lump hammer onto the disc won't make things move.....discs being replaced so wasn't fussed about damage .
Guess once it goes it will come away in once piece ?, also is this type just a case of getting a new bearing or do I have to buy an assembly ?.
Thanks for help
Simon

[AndyG]

Exellent pictures Just like your 2 Litre FWD Transit Nice colour too
Good luck with that front wheel drive set up always knew this kinda job to be a pig

[Nighthawk]

Yup, my mistake on the centre nut size, i'll blame the stella and silly laptop numberpad

it's the same size as the oil filter bowl


Yes, the bolts press off centre but i've used that method hundreds of times and never warped a disc or had a bearing that won't come off. It's also a method employed by dealer tecnicians up and down the country because the official special tool fits in the rear of the hub and bolts on with the 5 holes.

feel free to ignore the advice and manufacture another method, the way I advise takes under 10 minutes to do, using a sledge hammer to get the bearing out is a damn sight harder and takes much much longer.

The bearing assembly needs to be pressed onto the hub, but before you get that far, you need to get the old one OFF the hub if your changing the bearings. If your just doing discs the bearing can be left on the hub and the disc slipped over it.