SIX YEAR ANTI COROSION WARANTY ?

[Gunslinger]

the foam can have drawbacks yes, your right about it drawing moisture, thats how it reacts and sets, so you dont want to be doing it in damp or wet sections, once it has set it will be like the lagging around your hot water tank, if the surface is broken or damaged then yes it will absorb water, but as your putting it in a sealed or protected area then that shouldnt be a problem, shrinkage, hard to tell, but i have only ever seen it shrink when exposed to sunlight, and as its a cavity filler, then that shouldnt be a problem.

how well it works can be down to a number of things, like previous condition, how much you use, whether you get any air trapped in there etc etc,
Stuff to recommend, well the fire retardant stuff doesnt seem to expand quite as much and sets slightly differently, but i guess that would be the stuff to try, any repair done near it is going to be hard later though, but you can get a solvent that dissolves it,

sorry to hear the waxoyl didn't work, and yeah i forgot you had a different van before

[Gunslinger]

forgot to say .... you can always give it a test, nip down your local steel fabricators and fish a piece of box section out of the skip, get it damp inside, then fill it with foam, leave one end as it is to set and then after a little while cut the other end to leave it flush, then leave it outside for a couple of weeks, then cut it open and see what you find

[AndyG]

sorry to hear the waxoyl didn't work, and yeah i forgot you had a different van before

Fords are the ones that should be apologising Not you

If the rust was already there (as I guess it was) would Dinitrol have worked better than waxoyl

Has anyone found something that would actually kill the rust and stop it from coming back simply by spraying something durable on it

[tractive-effort]

I've had some bad experiences with Waxoyl. Don't get me wrong, it is a great rust killer from the outset, but in my opinion it remains too fluid and in hot weather goes a little too viscous. In rainy conditions I have noted areas where it had washed off completely! You also have to apply it very thickly to really prevent stone chips and salt corosion.

Dinitrol (Tuff Kote Dinol) has proven to be better! The cavity wax is an excellent gap filler for box sections, underfloor etc, (as Waxoyl is) whilst the Stoneguard sets very hard (like the old Ziebart and unlike Waxoyl) and will not wash off with regular pressure washing (as you should still do). In high impact areas I always rub down to bare steel, then apply a coat of Zinc primer, then two coats of red-oxide followed by 2 coats of Dinitrol Stoneguard. I have always had good results, but like anything it's just down to individual choice.

[Gunslinger]

true, these things always seem to give different results for different people, i used to use zinc primer but switched to UPOL etch primer part way through my van as i found it seemed to bod better and was more durable

that Tuff Kote Dinol sounds like an ideal candidate for painting the inside floor of a van with

[tractive-effort]

I would think so, but beware it is expensive and not as widely available as it used to be! I think you can only really buy it in large quantities direct from the manufacturer??

[Gunslinger]

too late for me anyway but was thinking for others, i used rust-oleum gloss finish, time will tell how tough that is

[AndyG]

This thread is not dead yet
Had a call from Ford Customer Care this morning
Turns out the person I was originally speaking to has left and someone else(been there since '92) has taken over his work and called me

To make myself brief, which of these two repair places does anyone recommend.
Perrys in Aylesbury or SEB Coachworks Ltd London N7




Do you think they're reading all this

[madmark]

andy if you can get the rust done it will be vantastic mate! she is a rare bit of kit and would be perfect !