Wiring location for door switches on MK7 Transit 260

[loot]

The door ajar switches in the door actuators and pin switch (SLD) are earthed when open which sends a earth signal to the Bcm to close the circuit (basic on off switch) so at the Bcm c3- pin 14 when the doors are shut it is dead, a broken circuit with no earth, open a door and it becomes earthed so your alarm senses the earth (negative activation by alarm) and then it will trigger.

[xaviargu]

The door ajar switches in the door actuators and pin switch (SLD) are earthed when open which sends a earth signal to the Bcm to close the circuit (basic on off switch) so at the Bcm c3- pin 14 when the doors are shut it is dead, a broken circuit with no earth, open a door and it becomes earthed so your alarm senses the earth (negative activation by alarm) and then it will trigger.

Buf, I am really happy to see light at the end...

So according to the wiring diagram

http://www.gpstracker.in/pdf/TK103.pdf

I should connect the Negative User alarm wire to the C3 pin 14..then I have the trigger for the doors.

I will try this Saturday morning...

Keep you informed

[loot]

Yes some alarms are positively activated and some are negatively activated, however and you'll need to check, but if you don't actually have an alarm system then I believe that every time you open a door on your vehicle the tracker will send you a message, I don't think it is an actual alarm system but more of an add on

If I'm correct then you should fit an alarm or fit a hidden switch to the c3 pin 14 so that it is open circuit until you intend to pick the van and leave it.
There are other options but cost more.


PS. What is cut off oil?

[xaviargu]

Ups,
I do not expect so...If it works fine, every time that the door is open with the alarm armed, I will receive a SMS and the horn is activated...but if the alarm is disarmed, no SMS, no horn.

I do not want to add any switch, just find the right wire to connect my negative or positive trigger and that's it. Originally, I was thinking in the door triggers, but if C3 pin14 works, it is better.

CUT off oil, it is for cut the ignition by remote. If the alarm is armed and they pick the van, I can cut the crank starter (I think this is the name) and they are done. (I imagine it works like this)

Loot, do you think I should still try with C3 Pin 14 with the negative trigger?

regards.

[loot]

Do you have an alarm system + the system here? Do you have an extra remote or just the Ford remote?

[xaviargu]

Actually, it is an alarm plus tracker....so for me mainly it is an alarm. So I assume, it knows what to do when it receives a trigger when armed or disarmed...

So I will have the Ford remote and the alarm remote.

is this helping you to have a better picture?

I am following your instructions 100%, hehehe So my next step: connect negative trigger to C3 pin 14.

If you think in other idea, feel free to suggest.

[loot]

OK, it's just that I clicked on your link and there was no mention of a key fob, it also states that it can work with your original alarm etc so I can only work on the info I have, maybe you have an alarm with it as a package?

If you can activate/deactivate the system when you want to then connect c3 pin 14 and it will work fine

[xaviargu]

mister Loot,
I went to check how easy is going to be tomorrow and measure cables and so on...
I found C3 and pin 14 but the access is so difficult and to pick the right cable is going to be difficult as well.
Any suggestion how to find the right cable from the rear part of the connector??
And there is a way to find the connection in the fuse box or a more easy access place.
Thanks Loot for your patience.

[loot]

Remove connector c3 from the Bcm(ignition off )
Look inside c3 and you'll see it is in 2 halve connectors and different coloured, there is a flap on c3 for each 1 that locks them into the c3 outer, there is a small cable tie holding the cables to c3 so you just remove it.
Slide 1 connector out and look how it is numbered, you'll see something like 1.........10(one side) 11............20(other side) other connector you'll see 21............30(one side) 31..........40 (other side)
40 pins in total between the 2 connector halves.

So the pin you want will be like this.

11..14.....20
Where I've marked pin 14 in red there is no number on the connector for it but just count along from 11 til you have pin 14.

Simple
The connector halves only fit into c3 1 way so don't worry about messing up

[xaviargu]

The problem is not to find the pin 14, I already unplugged it and find the 14.
The point is from the 40 cables behind the connector, which one is, it is very difficult to see which of the cables goes in the 14. And this is why I was asking for a better place to catch the cable (fuse box). You mentioned you used to do it...

[loot]

Right, I've been looking at the diagrams again to find out what's what and for the life of me I can only see c3 pin 14 is front passenger ajar switch, c4 pin 38 is courtesy lamp sense WTF
Why did I get c3 14? I originally put c3 7 as front passenger ajar (possibly the 57 way connector connection but I'm looking at the Bcm connections now.
Can you leave it with me and I'll find the best place to connect your alarm trigger wire on my van then post pics up for you.
I'm going to meter c4 pin 38 and see if it works for the 4 doors, I can't understand why I saw them differently and am a little embarrassed tbh

[xaviargu]

More than happy that you can make it for me.
And use fuse 72 which is for the interior lights?
Anyway, I will follow your suggestion if you can find a trigger for the 4 doors.
Today I will start to wire the alarm with the rest of connections and I will let door trigger until your feedback.

[loot]

Right this is becoming a pain in my ass
This is what I know.
Lighting circuit does not go to zero volts, it is constant positive feed linked to battery saver relay. Negative goes to about 0.5v(roughly) which explains why LEDs with no resistor fitted may stay on dimly.
Continuity check failed because there is always continuity, not enough to make the meter beep but does show a low value around 200 ohms:-(
C4 38 lighting sense is no good because when I did a continuity test my led interior lamp stayed dimly lit
So I have not found a distinct open or closed circuit when the doors are opened or closed.
There are those connections at the door ajar switches, BUT, there are 4 of them not anything I can find that can be used as 1 connection for them all collectively
You may be able to use 4 relays for the 4 ajar switches so they all work independently and not feedback to each other.
Alternatively you may be able to add 2 relays to the interior illumination connections at the Bcm connectors c2 22(front) and c2 27(rear).
I haven't added a relay to test them tho but given the negative varying logic I think a relay would be cleaner, I suppose a loading resistor might work but I think a relay would switch off quicker as the power fades out.
You can take relay positive from f72.

I have a relay and will give this a try if you want but it'll be Monday
If someone else can spot something I have missed them feel free to join in.
The problem isn't getting it to work but is in getting it to work for all latches, simply.
Most of the system is constant live connection and logical negative.
Also consider that the switches on the lights may affect the tracker trigger output, that is why I suggest relays at the front and rear interior illumination at c2.
Been scratching my head over this, I don't know if your tracker negative trigger has a threshold or if it just wants to be negative closed circuit.
If you want to do it simple then c3 pin 1 is for the drivers door only which you can simply plug your negative to and be done with it, only problem is that if someone breaks into any of the other doors and not the drivers door then the tracker won't work.
Thing is tho, for all intents and purposes i find it very unlikely that a thief would break into your van and drive it away without opening the drivers door at any point
Sorry I haven't made a very clear and simple way to do all doors with 1 wire but I have really thought about it
If I find out anything else I'll let you know, or if you want a copy of the worrying diagram pm me your email address.

[xaviargu]

Thanks for your effort, right now I am in the van finishing wiring except doors.
I will read carefully your post and if I have understood well.
Question here... How solved this Paul Richardson? Any idea how used the cables from interior light?
It sounds much simpler but apparently it worked.

[loot]

The interior lights (courtasy) go to the Bcm connectors c2 22(front 2 interior lamps, yellow/Gray) and c2 27(rear 2-3 cargo lamps white/Blue) as said, you have to use courtesy because it comes on when the doors are opened, as opposed to on at demand (light switch on position)
Just connect your negative trigger wire loosely to a front interior lamp gy/ye and go through the motion of activating the alarm etc and see if it functions correctly etc.
See how you go