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Immobiliser issue

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Immobiliser issue

Postby Plumberbish » Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:19 am

Hi everyone, this is my first post...I am struggling with my mk7 transit immobiliser...
My Immo often just decides not to work...I’ve read a few posts on here and it seems to have the 23 fault code...I think...
I’m new to fixing my van...just managed to clean my egr valve (thanks to some of the posts here) and managed to get the engine management light to finally go away...but I also had the joys of dealing with the immobiliser often not letting me start the van (which, while my egr was f-ing about, was a right pain in the arse as the egr would make me stall then the Immo wouldn’t let me start again!!)
I’ve read a few posts on this and it seems to have the 2 flash then 3flash fault... so...if I’m correct that’s an ecubproblem?? Is this something I can do myself? Any other ideas of how to check/what to do etc?? Also my key fob with the buttons hasn’t worked for months (the buttons don’t work) so I gave up trying with that and just use the basic key...not sure if that has any bearing on this!?
Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks guys!
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby loot » Mon Sep 17, 2018 9:13 am

Mk7 can be read using ids/forscan, the new key will need programming using ids anyway.

Find someone with ids/forscan to read the fault codes and you'll want to get new keys made up, get decent ones off ebay reasonably cheap.

Your key might be corroded inside or something but I would be looking at that first as the fob isn't working. :D
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65 290 2.2 125ps custom with 2 side doors 8)
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby Plumberbish » Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:46 pm

Cheers mate, will have a hunt about for someone who can do it for me
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby Plumberbish » Wed Sep 19, 2018 7:14 am

Hello again, Loot, don’t suppose you’d know if I had a dead keyfob key, can I re-programme it or do I need a new one to programme from fresh? I’m buying a key programmer (if it works for mine then I’ve got 3 mates who’s keys also don’t work so I can sort theirs too hopefully) so just wondered if I should be buying a new fob too...
I took my fob apart, the battery has 3.22v dc so I know it’s charged but just isn’t either sending a signal or that signal isn’t being recieved!?
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby loot » Wed Sep 19, 2018 9:01 am

Remove the front interior lamp and above it is a black box velcrod to the roof, pull it down and gently open it, inside is a circuit board and on it has a little red led when the fob buttons are pressed.

You can buy a repair kit for the fob which consists of 2 buttons, battery and shell.

You shouldn't need the battery though for starting the van and a faulty fob won't make the lamp flash when the key is in the ignition and it won't start.

So it'll be a key /transponder issue or maybe a power issue if you have 2 batteries on the van.

Ids etc can't program a dud key.

Need more info.
56 350 2.2 130ps mk7 with 2 side doors 8)
65 290 2.2 125ps custom with 2 side doors 8)
07 350 170ps
Ids v86 licence + v86.04 update + xprog here
Ids map here
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby Plumberbish » Wed Sep 19, 2018 10:53 pm

Cheers mate, I should get chance tomorrow to have a look! I’ll let you know how I get on!!
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby Plumberbish » Wed Sep 19, 2018 11:54 pm

Quick update...I had a quick look for the receiver box you mentioned...I found it...hiding up there in that really awkward position :D and eventually managed to pop it out...pressed the button on my key and it lit up...and the van locked!!
Dude, that hasn’t happened for months!! Either your some sort of telepathic ford keyfob god or maybe all the wiggling of the wires got it working again? I don’t know but either way it’s definitely a step in the right direction...

I’m guessing then, that now I know my key is not completely f*** (and must be semi programmed- enough to at least do the locks) then it should be ok for the immobiliser to recognise it? I’ve not given it a whirl yet...I shall post again tomorrow...cheers Loot!!
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby loot » Thu Sep 20, 2018 7:40 am

Maybe just a loose contact or something :D

But bear in mind that the key chip and remote locking aren't related, the key chip is charged through the ring on the ignition and that's where the code travels to activate the ignition, the remote locking is through the receiver.
56 350 2.2 130ps mk7 with 2 side doors 8)
65 290 2.2 125ps custom with 2 side doors 8)
07 350 170ps
Ids v86 licence + v86.04 update + xprog here
Ids map here
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby Plumberbish » Thu Sep 20, 2018 8:00 am

Good morning, I tested my batteries before work this morning, my back one (the engine one was 12.69vdc and the front was 12.09vdc...but the van still struggled to start...I suppose I need to have my multimeter connected to the battery to check it as I turn the ignition on incase it drops below the 12v it needs?

By the way, my remote key seems to be working (locking and unlocking the doors)
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby loot » Thu Sep 20, 2018 10:07 am

If they are 5 years old or so then likely they're tiring.

Best way to test them is individually voltage load drop test them.
56 350 2.2 130ps mk7 with 2 side doors 8)
65 290 2.2 125ps custom with 2 side doors 8)
07 350 170ps
Ids v86 licence + v86.04 update + xprog here
Ids map here
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby Plumberbish » Fri Sep 21, 2018 12:40 pm

Had a look at my batteries while waiting for a customer...when the engine is on the voltage going up to my suspect battery is 14.5vdc, so I’m confident the alternator is doing it’s job...I turned the engine off and started again, had 12.6vdc to start with than slowly went down to 12.3 (over 15mins-so wondering if there is a draw somewhere that’s making it drop) and noticed when turning the engine over the voltage dropped to 9.4vdc, so I’m wondering if the unwanted draw is dropping my battery lower than it needs to successfully turn the engine over?? Don’t have the time to pull the connection off the battery to do an amp test (with multimeter in series and everything off) to work out if I’ve got an unwanted draw going on!? So hopefully that will be tomorrow afternoons job!!
Do you think I might be on the right lines Loot?? I’ve not actually seen my immobiliser light fast flashing at me for a while (well not since first posting) so I’m wondering if that may have been a one off and actually my battery is the issue all along?
Oh and I seem to remember both batteries (I think) being replaced a year or so ago!? But I have since fitted an aftermarket radio and changed the interior bulbs to leds...so they will be the first things I’ll check if I have got an unwanted draw with everything turned off
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby knobby1 » Fri Sep 21, 2018 11:03 pm

If you battery is dropping to 9.4v during cranking, she's probably done for. Get it properly "load tested"...a multimeter can't do this. Batteries have a finite life...if they're not up to snuff, just replace them.

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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby ned » Fri Sep 21, 2018 11:11 pm

Sounds to me your front battery is on its way out being at 12.6v at rest, a duff or dieing battery will take the other one down with it, changing both together is your best bet.
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Re: Immobiliser issue

Postby Plumberbish » Tue Oct 16, 2018 6:41 pm

Right... I would like to say a big THANKYOU to everyone for their responses!! It turns out it wasn’t the batteries, not my immobiliser (like I originally thought)... I’ve finally worked out what my main issue has been...my flipping ignition switch was playing silly buggers!! I by chance held the key differently as I turned it over and it worked...then next time it didn’t start i wiggled the key and it started again...I finally had one delivered this afternoon and swapped it this eve, took all of 5mins lol!! It’s not to say I may still have other issues but right now the van is turning over first time every time!! The other week I tried to remove both batteries to charge them (I didn’t realise what a pain in the arse they are to get out!!) So I’ve now charged them in position, lost a socket head down between the batteries, I fitted double pole isolation switches to my rear interior lights (thinking they were somehow drawing power when turned off) and spent hours in total looking like a complete twat in customers driveways taking 15mins to leave each job I go to!!! :lol: :oops:
Thankyou again everyone for their input, I’ve learnt lots about how the van works from this!! Everydays a school day and all that lol!! I’m sure I’ll be back soon for more advice, thanks!!!
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