Hot start issue

[Parkwarden]

Help needed!

My 2007 transit 2.4 tdci has a hot start issue & engine light on. Once up to temp, if the engine is stopped and restarted it will cut out straight away (it turns over and fires up but cuts out straight away). It will only start again after about 5 minutes.
I had the fault codes read and reset (stupidly didn't record them) and was told a MAF sensor would solve the problem. MAF sensor fitted but no change. I've had another garage look it over today with the following results:

No fault codes found (snap-on diagnostics used)
No fuel leaks
Fuel pump fine
Injector leak test only very slight difference on 1 injector
Temperature sensors working ok

Any suggestions what to try next?

[Altransit]

Try a new crank and/or cam sensor

[knobby1]

If the engine light is on, there will be codes stored.

MAF and MAP sensors rarely fail. PRV may also be blown.

Lord Knobrot

[Parkwarden]

Help needed!

My 2007 transit 2.4 tdci has a hot start issue & engine light on. Once up to temp, if the engine is stopped and restarted it will cut out straight away (it turns over and fires up but cuts out straight away). It will only start again after about 5 minutes.
I had the fault codes read and reset (stupidly didn't record them) and was told a MAF sensor would solve the problem. MAF sensor fitted but no change. I've had another garage look it over today with the following results:

No fault codes found (snap-on diagnostics used)
No fuel leaks
Fuel pump fine
Injector leak test only very slight difference on 1 injector
Temperature sensors working ok

Any suggestions what to try next?

So... apparently the diagnostic fuse had blown, which explains why the last guy couldn't read it!

I had another garage continue the investigation. They found MAF sensor codes again (which was replaced already) so they checked the actual airflow, which was about 50%! I asked them to check the EGR, which they said appears fairly new. The pipes were totally clogged though, so they cleared them. After resetting the engine light & lightening my wallet they sent me on my way.

Drove it home, no engine light yet, but it still wouldn't hot-start when I got home!

Next I'm getting crank & cam sensors replaced to tick them off the list. Is there just one of each of these per engine?

Also, I previously removed the prv and it was in one piece inside, so from what I've read that's ok, right?

[Cchristhevanman5]

Hi m8. I had a simmilar problem on my 03 transit. Ended up being the battery. Wouldnt wanna start after a run. Leave it 20 minutes then it would fire up.

[Parkwarden]

Hi m8. I had a simmilar problem on my 03 transit. Ended up being the battery. Wouldnt wanna start after a run. Leave it 20 minutes then it would fire up.

Cheers, I'll get the multimeter on it tomorrow and check the voltage when it's not starting.

[Parkwarden]

I still haven't managed to sort this! Once up to temperature, it turns over but won't start. About 20 minutes cooldown (back down to the first notch on the temperature gauge) and it starts. This used to be intermittent but is now constant. It's recently started to take 2 or 3 goes to get started in the morning too.

Work done so far:

New crank sensor
New cam sensor
New MAF sensor
EGR inspected by garage (looked quite new)
EGR pipes unblocked
New ford fuel filter
Leak off test showed no significant variances

I've tested the batteries this afternoon:
12.8V & 12.4V resting
Both 12.05V with iginition on
Both around 10.9V when cranking.

[knobby1]

PRV and SCV... a new EGR ...and a full set of learns should see you sorted.

Once again, MAP & MAP sensors rarely fail.

Lord Knobrot.

[knobby1]

I still haven't managed to sort this! Once up to temperature, it turns over but won't start. About 20 minutes cooldown (back down to the first notch on the temperature gauge) and it starts. This used to be intermittent but is now constant. It's recently started to take 2 or 3 goes to get started in the morning too.

Work done so far:

New crank sensor
New cam sensor
New MAF sensor
EGR inspected by garage (looked quite new)
EGR pipes unblocked
New ford fuel filter
Leak off test showed no significant variances

I've tested the batteries this afternoon:
12.8V & 12.4V resting
Both 12.05V with iginition on
Both around 10.9V when cranking.

A new EGR, SCV & PRV....and a full set of learns is usually a good recipe.

Lord Knobrot

[Parkwarden]

I still haven't managed to sort this! Once up to temperature, it turns over but won't start. About 20 minutes cooldown (back down to the first notch on the temperature gauge) and it starts. This used to be intermittent but is now constant. It's recently started to take 2 or 3 goes to get started in the morning too.

Work done so far:

New crank sensor
New cam sensor
New MAF sensor
EGR inspected by garage (looked quite new)
EGR pipes unblocked
New ford fuel filter
Leak off test showed no significant variances

I've tested the batteries this afternoon:
12.8V & 12.4V resting
Both 12.05V with iginition on
Both around 10.9V when cranking.

A new EGR, SCV & PRV....and a full set of learns is usually a good recipe.

Lord Knobrot

Ok, I'll get on to it & let you know how it goes.

Just wondering about that voltage whilst cranking (under 11v) That's not too low is it?

[Altransit]

Ok, I'll get on to it & let you know how it goes.

Just wondering about that voltage whilst cranking (under 11v) That's not too low is it?

It should be OK until it drops to below 10v, but you could always see if it starts any better with another battery connected to the jump start point
It could be that the battery (batteries) is failing to supply enough cranking amps

[Parkwarden]

Ok, I'll get on to it & let you know how it goes.

Just wondering about that voltage whilst cranking (under 11v) That's not too low is it?

It should be OK until it drops to below 10v, but you could always see if it starts any better with another battery connected to the jump start point
It could be that the battery (batteries) is failing to supply enough cranking amps

Seeing as they both drop volts on cranking I guess they've just been wired together, maybe because one was failing.

Just checked the voltage figures on cold (successful) start and they were pretty much the same. So at least if the batteries are dying they're not the cause of this hot start issue.

Ordered the prv, scv & egr already so I'll fit them & get learns done before finding something else to buy!

[v8dave]

Both batteries are used to crank the engine, the start battery is disconnected once the engine shuts down to keep it changed for the next start.

Is the fuel filter full of fuel ?

Might be an air leak into the fuel system, filter heads can be an issue.

[Parkwarden]

Both batteries are used to crank the engine, the start battery is disconnected once the engine shuts down to keep it changed for the next start.

Is the fuel filter full of fuel ?

Might be an air leak into the fuel system, filter heads can be an issue.

Thanks, good to know about the batteries. I replaced the fuel filter with a genuine ford one a few weeks ago and it was virtually brimming when removed. Plus, wouldn't I have as much trouble if not more when cold starting if it was the fuel draining back...?

[knobby1]

Have you done the pump, pilot & injector learns yet..?? The SCV and/or PRV may be starting to fail.

Pull the drain line off the PRV and see if there's a silly amount of fuel coming out at idle....a drop or so is ok but nothing more.

Lord Knobrot