2013 2.2 p0299 fault

[Flatout16]

Hi, my first time doing this so hope I get this right...
I have a 2013 2.2 euro 5 that keeps going into limp home mode every time I try and drive it, all the power drops out and the little cog and esp light come on. If I turn it off and on again it all clears and goes fine for another 200 yards then does it all again. So far I’ve changed maf sensor, map sensor and the sensor in the inter cooler. I’ve tested the inter cooler and pipes with a pressure tester and it has no leaks. I’ve changed the turbo actuator and had the turbo apart to check the vains and every is fine in there. It’s had a new exhaust all the way through so the dpf is fine. I took the egr off and cleaned it well. It’s been on various code readers and always comes back with this fault. I’ve already spent a lot and kind of run out of ideas. Any help or ideas would be much appreciated before I cancel Christmas and give it to ford to scratch their heads over

Thanks

[loot]

Hi did you have it on Ford ids? Did you do live data? Did you get any fault codes? What were they?

[bambi mk 1]

Egr problem

[knobby1]

Egr problem

+1..

Lord Knobrot

[Flatout16]

I don’t know what ids is? Only fault codes I have is p0299

Can I ask why you think it could be egr? Do you think it could be sticking open? I’ve tried the van with the egr unplugged and with a blanking plate. It’s still goes into limp home mode with the same p0299 fault?!

[knobby1]

I don’t know what ids is? Only fault codes I have is p0299

Can I ask why you think it could be egr? Do you think it could be sticking open? I’ve tried the van with the egr unplugged and with a blanking plate. It’s still goes into limp home mode with the same p0299 fault?!

IDS is Ford's own diagnostic system....many of us have it to help diagnose common faults. Forscan does an equally good job of this too. Ford dealers will bend you over and give you a jolly good rogering just to read the codes, let alone fix anything.

P0299 is an "underboost" code, P0234 is usually overboost....with these codes 90% of the time it's because the EGR is sticking/stuck open or closed, and since you've unplugged and/or blanked the EGR, it basically stays or appears to the PCM to be closed all the time, the PCM, (Powertrain Control Module), sees it as an "overboost" fault. When you unplug the EGR the PCM sees this as an open circuit fault and the valve itself will probably be closed or partially stuck open with no way of opening/closing anyway...again, it causes an overboost/underboost fault code.

When you blank the EGR or it's stuck closed, the system sees higher than normally expected manifold pressure "all the time", hence the P0299 "overboost" fault.....when the EGR is supposed to be open or partially open, the PCM is expecting to see less manifold pressure depending on rpm, throttle position, EGR position, load etc...

So...we suspect your EGR isn't working/operating as it should, probably stuck open/closed....and cleaning it will do nothing but make it cleaner while it's stuck open/closed.

Lord Knobrot

[Flatout16]

Ok, thank you very much. I understand what your saying. Would you suggest trying a new egr? Also after it’s fitted will it need plugging in to diagnostics after? I read a lot about pcm updates etc and wondering if I may need to have that done?

Thanks

[loot]

If it was stuck open I'd expect other codes, if you blanked it I'd expect over boost not under boost, assuming that you blanked it correctly.

P0299 is under boost, if you cleared it and it later returned then it is the fault.

I think you should still treat it as an egr fault. But lean towards a boost leak fault. That would be the consistent problem here.

Live data may help.

Do you hear any loud sound /hiss when flooring it? The egr can possibly fail and leak too (the old type did anyway but that's dependent on where you blanked it)

[Flatout16]

I blanked it the elbow just below the pump. No loud hissing noises like you would get from a normal boost leak. I can have it put on live data using a snap on diagnostic machine but to be honest I don’t really know what I’m looking at when it’s on there

[loot]

You need to look at the readings for boost pressure to see if they are sensor low, actually low.

Blanked egr should only read higher boost. If you have a low boost fault and blanked egr then in theory it should equalised and not show a fault

Low boost on euro 5 vnt I think its either obvious or I would still look at the actuator. Live data.

That's all you can do. Look at the actuator and see if it moves when boosting.
Ford ids can test the turbo.

Possible wiring fault but I'd expect a fault code for short or ground.

[beanis]

Having exactly same issue with my 2013 euro 5 van. Did this get sorted and how?

With mine I am leaning towards a wiring fault.
I fitted a new actuator and it was ok for a few hundred miles, but now the new one makes a weird buzzing sound when I turn van off.

Basically when van is turned off, there is a very loud buzzing sound for 15 seconds after. If I unplug the egr AND the actuator the sound stops. But if either is plugged in it comes back. The actuator especially sounds like its shorting.

Any ideas which wires to check?

Egr is deleted so I can leave it unplugged. But worried something is shorted or buggered somewhere