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Clutch/flywheel replacement

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Clutch/flywheel replacement

Postby kviete » Thu Sep 30, 2021 6:50 am

Heyy,

I am in the process for an engine overhaul, Ford Transit 2008, 2.4, 6speed, RWD.

I opened the clutch and the pattern is still there on one side of the friction disc, another side has the pattern gone around the edge, bearing is bit noisy and disk, flywheel have a few black spots (oil contamination I guess?)

How much life I can expect from this set up or if I start replacing how far should I go? Bearing for sure, friction disk, set or also a flywheel?

Cheers, Paulius
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Re: Clutch/flywheel replacement

Postby marcrbarker » Thu Sep 30, 2021 3:03 pm

To this kind of question you'll probably get the standard safest bet answer which is "replace everything" lowest risk :) but I'll chime in and stick my neck out.
What I can see of friction plate shown it doesnt look like it's worn that much apart from a peculiar heavy outer edge wear. If the other side (not shown) had reached the rivets then the clutch would slip, that's the point the friction plate reaches end of life.The coil springs don't look that battered. If there was a lot of judder then that won't usually go away after just replacing friction plate.
People often take the opportunity to change to a solid flywheel as well as full kit for extra peace of mind if it's got a cushioned drive one.
If there's a rattle noise then that's probably why you're looking at it now.

Otherwise clutches can go for many months even years with noisy release bearing rattles, and then suddenly without warning the disengage stops working and you suddenly have to learn how to change gear without a clutch (not so bad) or get a recovery.

Usually the advice is change everything after having got this far. A complete kit isn't that more pricey compared to the time you spend. Which might well be where we started because sometimes people just replace the friction plate only (I often do) and then the reused release bearing fails (or gets annoyingly noisy) before the new plate gets through its lifecycle.
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Re: Clutch/flywheel replacement

Postby Altransit » Thu Sep 30, 2021 4:48 pm

I'm in the other camp :P

I would never take a clutch apart and not replace the lot, because I hate doing a job twice :mrgreen:
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Re: Clutch/flywheel replacement

Postby karl » Fri Oct 01, 2021 11:28 pm

looking at the friction plate

the dual mass fly wheel isnt the best either

change the lot as said above nothing worse then doing the job twice
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Re: Clutch/flywheel replacement

Postby kviete » Sat Oct 02, 2021 2:38 am

Thanks.

The reason I ask, cuz i got it out due to the engine overhaul, clutch itself was as smooth as it can be.. That's why it is as tempting to replace it all as leaving it or just replacing what is worn..

What about the clutch codes while replacing does it has to match exactly or buying just Transit, 2.4, rwd, 6 speed is good enough? For example 4C11-7550-AC vs. 7C11-7550-AB ??
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Re: Clutch/flywheel replacement

Postby Jim Archer » Sun Oct 03, 2021 10:11 am

Outer edge wear on the friction disc and discoloured steel faces are a sign that the clamping faces aren't parallel to each other - usually the pressure plate is dished due to past over heating from abuse, it's quite likely someone has previously toasted the friction disc and just replaced it alone.

If the lifter/release bearing is getting noisy, then the Dual Mass probably isn't far behind it, check it for rotational slop, and for tipping on the centre support bearing/bush. There will be a certain amount of rotational play, but it should be smoothly contained/restrained by the cush springs.

Personally, I would replace the lot, especially if the vehicle is going to carry a high payload or is a higher PS model.

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Re: Clutch/flywheel replacement

Postby kviete » Wed Oct 20, 2021 9:25 pm

Thanks Jim.

I am gonna replace the whole lot. Though, if it's Luk now, better to stick with same or Valeo just as good?

Also can somebody tell me where i can cross reference aome parts numbers? To find a match?
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