2.2 custom engine trouble

[Sam picko]

Hi everyone I’ve posted in the custom section with a full breakdown of what I’ve discovered
So basically 2.2 euro 5 engine runs sweet as a nut on the drive I can revv it up and down all day long.
Take it on the road pulls through the gears great nice and strong with a bit of toe down , come to a stop and it stalls won’t restart just chuffs smoke out
If I pootle around keep revs low it is okay
After a while it does eventually restart but bellows smoke out like you wouldn’t believe
Little video after is stalled
https://youtu.be/UvvBOIz2BpM?si=kZNmKak3uXi3J2qb
I have access to forscan live data but unsure which parts I should take a look at
Videos of it running fine before and after it stalls
One doing injector learn
https://youtu.be/q7z45aHmEzs?si=9DfcujgGjbIbXDqM
https://youtu.be/q7z45aHmEzs?si=1CgV9qsoXvX1CXaO
Really hope someone can help
Thanks Sam

[Sam picko]

Did a compression test yesterday so…

Cylinders
1 365psi
2 340psi
3 330psi
4 350psi
Not sure if these readings are good or not

However before the test I did an injector leak down and 3 was always leaking off more than the rest
Also checked cylinder balance on for scan and cylinder 3 was noticeably below the rest

Just want to track down the culprit before throwing money at injectors then needing a new engine or vise versa
Thanks Sam

[metalworker0]

Poor you, no ones answered , i'm answering because no one else has , as usual a lot of guesses.

First off ..i don't like that horrible knock sound you have in this video, which is why i said re-post here .. the video in the post is important, in my opinion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvvBOIz2BpM

i would not run it like that, i would find out what it is ..that being a sealing washer for injector, or something is bust, ive seen here, rocker ladders broken , and i also heard that here about a weak coupling point of between steering pump and water pump.

its also been reported that the timing chain can jump the sprockets particularly when bump starting that would mean pistons hitting valves which is what would worry me most. but think you would hear that after starting as well...which i cant

Think your pressures should not stop and engine starting ..the marginally low results are/
..1.because maybe engine is cold,
2. or suffering from bore wash from the many attempts at starting .. temporary lost the oil film to seal pistons.
3. chain jumped sprockets and now tooth out.
4 compression test must be done with all injectors out and a fully charged good battery
5. engine is getting tired

having said all that its sounds quite nice once started. in the other videos

The graphs ---i don't know, i see three traces that are the same and one that is not .......how about swapping the injectors around to see if the graph changes position -- if it does then that's what it is . note : i don't have forscan and cant make out whats written vertical besides each trace.


all the best.mark

[Sam picko]

Hi mark thanks for your reply
Regarding the compression test I did it when the egnine was cold, injectors in but glow plugs out as these injectors share a clamp
Also I don’t run it like in the video when it makes that knocking noise that’s just what it does after it stalls

It starts up spot on every time as long as It’s sat on the drive weather it’s hot or cold fires straight away
As long as it’s not stalled it’s self after boost, under load (test drive)

https://youtube.com/shorts/pzoXVG-QD8U? ... S0GDzuHG7t
This was doing injector learn sounds spot on and hardly any smoke
It only happens under load for some strange reason

[metalworker0]

Perhaps there is something wrong with the electronic turbo actuator --- least i think it has one of them ..there must be moving parts within it and they may be sticking.

if it has not got electronic it may have manual vacuum operated one ..they also stick...but they have outside linkage that you can inspect. pay [particular attention to the vacuum pipe ..look for splits

all the best.mark

[knobby1]

Perhaps there is something wrong with the electronic turbo actuator --- least i think it has one of them ..there must be moving parts within it and they may be sticking.

if it has not got electronic it may have manual vacuum operated one ..they also stick...but they have outside linkage that you can inspect. pay [particular attention to the vacuum pipe ..look for splits

all the best.mark

"ALL" Euro-5 transit engines have an electronic turbo actuator.

Lord Knobrot

[sherwoodcycles]

The electronic turbo actuators have plastic cogs that can get very worn

[sherwoodcycles]

Another idea...check you don't have mayonnaise build up inside the high pressure rail (remove sensor to check) only suggesting as mine had loads in when I replaced my sensor and I'm wandering if the high load, could be drawing some of it into an injector

[Sam picko]

The electronic turbo actuators have plastic cogs that can get very worn

Thanks for your suggestion
I will take a look at this hopefully today
Been flat out at the minute and not had chance to do anything.

[Sam picko]

Built the van back up yesterday new glow plugs intake manifold back on etc
Fitted a new SCV as I had already ordered it weeks ago
Started it back up and it once again runs like a dog
Should I do a pump/injector learn after fitting new scv?

[knobby1]

Built the van back up yesterday new glow plugs intake manifold back on etc
Fitted a new SCV as I had already ordered it weeks ago
Started it back up and it once again runs like a dog
Should I do a pump/injector learn after fitting new scv?

Injector/pilot learn is a Euro-4 thing...Your Euro-5 has a totally different fuel system to the Euro-4's. You have the horrible Seimens fuel system, Euro-4 is Denso.

The Euro-5's have an "adaption" rather than learns and this generally happens whilst driving.

Ensure all injector correction factors are entered into the system correctly. Reset the injector quantity learned values, reset all adaptions. It's often a good idea to also reset the EGR valve adaptions, MAF sensor adaption and turbo variable vane position sensor adaption...these in theory should be done as part of the reset "all" adaptions procedure...but I'm not totally sure this is what actually happens.

During the next couple of drive cycles, it should "adapt" itself to your driving conditions. Not everyone drives the same.

You'll notice the "adaptions" for Euro-5 and "learns" for Euro-4 are in the "Service Procedures" tab...but very few people actually do them as part of their regular servicing. A good many more people don't even know about it....then complain when their engine starts to play up due to poor fuel system maintenance.

Lord Knobrot