How many miles on an oil pump before replacement?

[MinOMins]

Hello all,

Mk7 2.2 FWD 115ps 2010 SRFA Engine.

How many miles on a oil pump before replacement. 156,000 miles done on original pump, starting to think it could be time for a change!

Thanks,

Stewarty

[metalworker0]

Depends on service history ..if you know the oil had been changed sooner than every 10,000 miles, then the oil pumps forever. unless...

Certain models though, had a batch of bad oil pumps, think it was the euro 5 which is 2009 on ..so think yours would have already failed before now, if was fitted with such.

And oil pressure is dependent on how worn other parts are ..like the main bearings, big ends ..if these are worn the oil escapes and lowers the pressure.
So you can put a new pump on ..but if other stuff is worn, it may not do anything to improve things.

You can monitor things by putting an oil pressure gauge on the dash...but this depends on you knowing what it should show if everything is correct and note oil pressure varies with its temperature.

all the best.mark

[andz327]

I've had a few with over 350,000 miles so wouldn't worry
Proper servicing/looking after it and quality oil and you'll good, if you didn't know background of the van I'd be more inclined to be changing timing chain side of things
Ps
Was the early euro 5 engines which were from late2011 models onwards


Sent from my SM-G990B using Tapatalk

[MinOMins]

Depends on service history ..if you know the oil had been changed sooner than every 10,000 miles, then the oil pumps forever. unless...

Certain models though, had a batch of bad oil pumps, think it was the euro 5 which is 2009 on ..so think yours would have already failed before now, if was fitted with such.

And oil pressure is dependent on how worn other parts are ..like the main bearings, big ends ..if these are worn the oil escapes and lowers the pressure.
So you can put a new pump on ..but if other stuff is worn, it may not do anything to improve things.

You can monitor things by putting an oil pressure gauge on the dash...but this depends on you knowing what it should show if everything is correct and note oil pressure varies with its temperature.

all the best.mark

Hi Mark thanks for the reply. We've had the van from new and the oil and filters have been changed twice a year. Some years 3 times!

Old retired mechanic now, and I know this will probably be the last van I have, so I have tried my best to look after it.

I like the idea of an oil pressure gauge on the dash, I had a look on the internet but I couldn't figure out the best way to go about it.

It seemed a bit of a mine field with regards brands, accuracy, electronic or mechanical t-pieces, thread size connections... It was easier in the old days, I felt a bit confuddled with the way forward on it...

Do you have any suggestions/best method?

The van is a euro 4 model registered in Nov 2010, 60 plate.

Thank you and all the best to you too,

Stewarty

[MinOMins]

I've had a few with over 350,000 miles so wouldn't worry
Proper servicing/looking after it and quality oil and you'll good, if you didn't know background of the van I'd be more inclined to be changing timing chain side of things
Ps
Was the early euro 5 engines which were from late2011 models onwards


Sent from my SM-G990B using Tapatalk

Hi andz327, thanks for the reply mate.

350,000 miles sounds very good to me! The timing chain has been done but not the oil pump and chain. ( Wish I had done it at the same time damn it, what an idiot!)

Have used Castrol magnatec ford spec 5w30 and genuine ford filters every time.
Last year I was concerned about the oil cooler water mixing issue I believe they suffer, so I pre-empted that and fitted a new cooler. Ford have changed it to a screw on filter now!

Thanks for the reply and all the best,

Stewarty

[metalworker0]

You take out the oil pressure switch and put in a T piece ...the switch screws into that and you have then an extra tapping for the oil gauge.

not sure of the threads

but here's an example

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175864661196?

You can buy a manual mechanical gauge that has a capillary tube going to it , or electronic that has a sender similar to the pressure switch.

The mechanical ones are mostly old stock, should not be overlooked as they never fail. some had solid copper tubes some had semi flexible ones - re-enforced nylon tube, some just plain nylon tubes.

all the best.mark

[knobby1]

Certain models though, had a batch of bad oil pumps, think it was the euro 5 which is 2009 on ..so think yours would have already failed before now, if was fitted with such.

Euro-5 started Sept 26th 2011 build date. 2009 is Euro-4 with the better oil pump.

As I understand it...the early Euro-5 oil pumps were vane pumps made of cheese and failed often unfortunately. The Euro-4 pumps were "gerotor" gear pumps, much better IMHO.

Lord Knobrot

[MinOMins]

As I understand it...the early Euro-5 oil pumps were vane pumps made of cheese

Lord Knobrot[/quote]

Brilliant ha ha ha ha...

Thanks Knobby cheered me up no end!

Stewarty

[MinOMins]

You take out the oil pressure switch and put in a T piece ...the switch screws into that and you have then an extra tapping for the oil gauge.

not sure of the threads

but here's an example

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175864661196?

You can buy a manual mechanical gauge that has a capillary tube going to it , or electronic that has a sender similar to the pressure switch.

The mechanical ones are mostly old stock, should not be overlooked as they never fail. some had solid copper tubes some had semi flexible ones - re-enforced nylon tube, some just plain nylon tubes.

all the best.mark

Yes that's it! Would you recommend a pressure gauge brand?

I have just found this website article moments ago checking out your good advice Mark, and they confirm exactly what you said. They have a good explanation of the types and pro's and con's...

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/page ... 56C1-N51Sk

It looks like they also have some good brands of gauge on there too... I remember Cobra/Smiths as being the go to in times past. I think I would be able to get everything from them.

Good advice mark thanks again and cheers to you!

Stewarty

[MinOMins]

Euro-5 started Sept 26th 2011 build date. 2009 is Euro-4 with the better oil pump.

As I understand it...the early Euro-5 oil pumps were vane pumps made of cheese and failed often unfortunately. The Euro-4 pumps were "gerotor" gear pumps, much better IMHO.

Lord Knobrot[/quote]

Gerotor got me wondering Knobby... Very interesting indeed and I learned we have Myron F. Hill to thank for the innovation.

Every day's a school day!

Thanks Knobby much appreciated indeed.

Stewarty

[metalworker0]

Brands ..i haven't looked into it for a long time - i think smiths are still available new old stock or used .

when buying ..suggest lbs per square inch - PSI , lot more readable than a KGS gauge reading 0-5 kgs or barrs reading 0- 5 bars

Usually from memory a good engine on a cold start (say 5 degrees c) will read 50 - 70 psi at tick over

warmed up 35 ish, driving - over 45

A clunker with worn big ends and mains will be showing less than 10 at tickover, but would rise with more revs to 30 psi.

A v8 engine has lower readings due to the amount of big ends.

You'll be able to see the difference in oil pressure in very cold minus conditions .. very high is good indicator to let it warm up a bit more before you put your foot down.

On a very hot day you'll see how thinned the oil has got with heat, as the pressure will be lower.

all the best.mark

[knobby1]

Brands ..i haven't looked into it for a long time - i think smiths are still available new old stock or used .

when buying ..suggest lbs per square inch - PSI , lot more readable than a KGS gauge reading 0-5 kgs or barrs reading 0- 5 bars

Usually from memory a good engine on a cold start (say 5 degrees c) will read 50 - 70 psi at tick over

warmed up 35 ish, driving - over 45

A clunker with worn big ends and mains will be showing less than 10 at tickover, but would rise with more revs to 30 psi.

A v8 engine has lower readings due to the amount of big ends.

You'll be able to see the difference in oil pressure in very cold minus conditions .. very high is good indicator to let it warm up a bit more before you put your foot down.

On a very hot day you'll see how thinned the oil has got with heat, as the pressure will be lower.

all the best.mark

This ^^^.

I use 10W50 oil in mine due to this reason, we get silly ambient temps in the summer where I am. We can literally get several weeks of 40c+ in summer. 5W30 oil would be like water at those temps.

I get 85-90psi on a cold start...soon drops to ~65 at tickover....when fully warmed up I usually see ~30psi at tickover and ~70 on the motorway.

I believe the relief valve is factory set to ~85-90psi as I've never seen any higher than that on a cold day start.

Lord Knobrot

[andz327]

I've had a few with over 350,000 miles so wouldn't worry
Proper servicing/looking after it and quality oil and you'll good, if you didn't know background of the van I'd be more inclined to be changing timing chain side of things
Ps
Was the early euro 5 engines which were from late2011 models onwards


Sent from my SM-G990B using Tapatalk

Hi andz327, thanks for the reply mate.

350,000 miles sounds very good to me! The timing chain has been done but not the oil pump and chain. ( Wish I had done it at the same time damn it, what an idiot!)

Have used Castrol magnatec ford spec 5w30 and genuine ford filters every time.
Last year I was concerned about the oil cooler water mixing issue I believe they suffer, so I pre-empted that and fitted a new cooler. Ford have changed it to a screw on filter now!

Thanks for the reply and all the best,

Just a bit of oil mixes when the cooler goes

[knobby1]

Great pic is that...Top effort to get oil all over the front of the van.

Lord Knobrot

[andz327]

Great pic is that...Top effort to get oil all over the front of the van.

Lord Knobrot

Didn't want it to rust muckeroo...jealous of your rust free wagon

Sent from my SM-G990B using Tapatalk