Comunicación interna de agua al cárter - Motor 2.5 DI (4C) A

[DANITORTOSA]

Hola a todos. Tengo una Ford Transit Mk3 de 1991 (Motor 2.5 DI atmosférico, código 4C / 4CA con fundición de bloque 11A90). La bomba es Bosch VE.El motor arranca perfecto, pero me mete el agua del refrigerante directamente dentro del cárter (ha subido el nivel del aceite unos 10 centímetros de golpe). La culata está recién comprobada y rectificada por profesionales, está perfecta.En una rectificadora clásica me comentaron que revisara los tapones de fundición/expansión interiores que van alojados en la galería de los empujadores/taqués (detrás de la tapa lateral del bloque), ya que si se pican pueden comunicar el agua directo al aceite sin pasar por la culata.¿A alguien le ha pasado esto en este bloque? ¿Es común que se comunique el agua por esos tapones internos o puede ser una fisura en la fosa del bloque?Además, estoy buscando los planos técnicos de construcción y despiece del bloque motor para poder desmontar la tapa lateral y hacer yo mismo la reparación en mi almacén. ¿Alguien me puede facilitar los esquemas o el manual de taller de este motor?Agradezco cualquier consejo técnico. Un saludo, Daniel.

[metalworker0]

Translated from Spanish

Hi everyone. I have a 1991 Ford Transit Mk3 (2.5 DI naturally aspirated engine, code 4C/4CA with block casting 11A90). It uses a Bosch VE pump. The engine starts perfectly, but coolant is leaking directly into the crankcase (the oil level shot up by about 10 centimeters). The cylinder head has just been checked and resurfaced by professionals and is in perfect condition. A machine shop suggested I check the internal casting/expansion plugs located in the tappet gallery (behind the engine block's side cover); if they corrode, they can allow coolant to mix directly with the oil without passing through the cylinder head. Has anyone experienced this with this engine block? Is it common for coolant to leak through those internal plugs, or could it be a crack in the block casting itself? Also, I am looking for technical drawings and exploded-view diagrams of the engine block so I can remove the side cover and perform the repair myself in my workshop. Can anyone provide the schematics or the workshop manual for this engine? I appreciate any technical advice. Best regards, Daniel.

http://www.catcar.info/ford/?lang=en&l= ... ExMDQrMjcy


Si es el número 33...- 15

Es posible que tengas que sacar el motor.
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If its number 33 and 15 , you may have to take the engine out !

all the best.mark

[DANITORTOSA]

Hello Mark. You are totally right, pulling the engine out is a big job. My plan is to check first whatever we can see without taking the block out.

Could you please tell me how to proceed step by step? What is the best way to access and remove the side pushrod cover? What components do we need to dismantle first to clear the way on that side of the block?

Thank you for your valuable help!

[metalworker0]

My suggestion on taking the engine out is because to replace all core plugs including number 15 at the back of engine.. basically getting everything out of the way to get the tappet cover removed ,, getting all the layers off the front( several alloy castings one over the other) ..... could leave you with just the bare block and head in the van and still struggling. - i don't know .


Worst case scenario and to do with age 35 years old.
I can tell you now , that once the core plugs are removed, its been my experience, (this is working on 10 - 15 year old engines, newer engines at the time than yours) ,you will see a couple of inches of rusty crud or even casting sand in the bottom of the water jackets.

Watch those Pakistan casting videos, or the bell foundry videos, see how hard that sand is to get out, lots of chiselling.. and you'll know why manufacturers don't do a good job of this when nobody is looking at them.

So, its handy to have the engine out be able to roll it over and blast with pressure washer and not get the water into the sump.


You can do all of this work with the engine still in .. if you want to .if you only think you are owning it for a couple of years .. then yes.

All plugs --- yes .. because, its likely, all will be in a similar rusty state ... or cross fingers and just do the bare minimum, its up to you .. good time to have a look at the clutch.

No, i don't know the order of procedure .. but many engines in vans come out through the bottom. or through the front .


all the best.mark

[DANITORTOSA]

Hola Mark. Muchas gracias por tu respuesta honesta y detallada. Tu experiencia con estos motores de 35 años de edad es de gran ayuda. Tienes toda la razón: la acumulación de óxido y arena dentro de las camisas de agua es un gran problema. Estoy de acuerdo en que la mejor manera de limpiarlo perfectamente con la hidrolavadora es sacar el motor. Actualmente estoy buscando un mecánico con una grúa de motor para hacer el trabajo correctamente en mi almacén. ¡Gracias de nuevo por tu tiempo y te deseo lo mejor! Daniel."