rEAR bRAKE INSPECTION

[pictishpunkgirl]

Any way of checking rear brakes on 94 LWB diesel without removing wheels? (Lazy, or what!?)

ta

morag

[Nighthawk]

Yes






The back plates have rubber plugs in the inspection holes, pull the bung out and have a look at the thickness of the lining. I find the use of a small screwdriver handy to scratch the shoe lining, that way you can see whats metal and whats lining.

If they look low though you'll need to take the drums off for a closer look. It's possible that a wear lip on the drum could give a false impression of worn linings, again you'll only confirm with a good look.

[TRANSITBILL]

Hi all..................a tip...............paint the edge of the shoes thro the veiwing hole with a white tipex pen,on future checks makes life easy.............best wishes Billy ...........Dont forget you can use the one hole nearer axle casing to release self adjuster to aid removing brake drum

[Steve4x4]

One thing you can't do is check the state of the rear wheel cylinders. These can start leaking and you won't find out until it gets very bad. Sorry if you know all this already. Just thought I would mention it as its better to do it sooner rather than later and have to clean or replace all the shoes.

Have you got a problem already?

[TRANSITBILL]

Hi Steve that is a very good point,......hopefully if there was a fuild loss the light would come on on the dash to let one know the fluid level as gone down........them drums can be a right git to get off if the shoes get soaked with brake fluid often ending up with new hold on pins n caps best wishes Billy

[Steve4x4]

I have had to do it on my van. One side was leaking bad enough to soak the shoes, the other was just starting. I have tried to forget the hammering I had to do to get the drums off !
I used to do mot repairs/servicing and most cars had leaky rear wheel cylinders to some degree. Usually had to change them as they wouldn't last till the next mot.

[pictishpunkgirl]

Thanks, everyone, i'll get onto that today then!

Morag

[Gunslinger]

if you decide that you are going to change the brakes anyway before taking the drums off, you can flood the drum with wd40, then release the brake adjuster as mentioned above,and then its simply a case of little bit at a time, working around the drum tapping opposite sides in turn .... do too much at one point all at once and you will lock the drum against the shoes, remember the shoes are quite wide. Turning the drum as you do it might help to push the shoes out of the way a little.


wait until you have to split the drum from the hub that will either drop right out no problems or be stuck so tight you'll think some git welded them together