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mk2 rear diff

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mk2 rear diff

Postby simgy » Fri Jun 03, 2005 8:19 pm

do mk3 diffs fit a mk2 ?
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Postby FredTransit » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:01 am

I don't know of the diff itself will fit, but it does need a carrier to take it out of the axle or it falls apart. The axles themselves do swap, but i believe the Mk3 axle is slightly narrower. We've done this many times on the LWB lutons, and it's never noticable, though it may be on the vans.
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Re: mk2 rear diff

Postby Luke » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:06 am

simgy wrote:do mk3 diffs fit a mk2 ?
single or twin wheel?
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Postby FredTransit » Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:08 am

.........good point ,I always think in terms of the twin wheel!
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Postby madvanman » Sat Jun 04, 2005 4:48 pm

Mk3 diffs will fit mk2 axels BUT it should be from the same type of axel ie. mk2 F type axel will take a diff from the mk3 F type axel.

The crownwheel and pinion i think will swap between most diffs (but you need to check the ratios)

Ive just rebuilt the diff on my '95 six stud single wheel axel, the crownwheel and pinion from a mk3 F type axel fitted with no problem even though the diffs are totally different
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Postby simgy » Sat Jun 04, 2005 5:33 pm

any external size difference that would effect the prop length? asking this as i need the prop shortening about 2-3" and would like to avoid it if poss.any of you ever shortened your own ?
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Postby Gunslinger » Wed Jun 08, 2005 11:40 pm

internals are the same and as already stated tho must be same axle type.

there will be slight differences in length between axles in relation to flange position but it should only be minor due to the bearing style and should be taken up by the sliding joint in the prop

and yes it is noticable on the vans fred .... it looks almost anerexic and it also runs the tyres fairly close to the inner edge (poss enough to rub if tyre goes flat)
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Postby simgy » Thu Jun 09, 2005 12:41 am

thanks gunslinger just gonna change internals as the whining is doing my head in did a diy shorten on the prop so externals dont matter any more
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Postby Gunslinger » Thu Jun 09, 2005 12:50 am

you should be using a new collapsable spacer behind the flange to get the end float/tightening torque correct

and it might be a good time to change the oil seal too, these are easy to find on ebay if you cant get them anywhere else
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