Baz has a new home!

[dieselhead123]

What's the rust preventative paint you use Tim if you don't mind me asking?

It is a single pac, (air drying), Zinc Phosphate primer, commonly used within the fabrication industry as a rust preventative coating applied to metal fabrications. It is available in a variety of shades, white, red, yellow, green, blue, etc.
It is suitable for brush painting or spraying and is touch dry within an hour, making it 'workshop friendly'.

The product should be available from an industrial paint supplier, lower cost/lt than equivalent automotive products.

We have even had good results spraying whole vehicles with this, over-painting with 2K clear coat

TIM

[dirtydog]

Cheers Tim, will keep my eye out for some of that. Sounds like good stuff.

[dieselhead123]

Cheers Tim, will keep my eye out for some of that. Sounds like good stuff.

If we have an unopened tin, one without paint down the side, I will post up a picture of the product labeling.

TIM

[RustWidow]

Great job tim

[dieselhead123]

Some more progress

The right hand side is now fully welded to the van, seam sealer has been applied to the external joints.

The artificial joint created where the lower part of the side panels were replaced has been filled. A large flat bed sander was employed for this task, progress can be checked by holding a length of timber to the side of the vehicle, any 'lows' in the repair will be easily visible.
Here we see it viewed from the front;

Viewed from the rear;


TIM

[ColinJack]

Some more progress

The right hand side is now fully welded to the van, seam sealer has been applied to the external joints.

The artificial joint created where the lower part of the side panels were replaced has been filled. A large flat bed sander was employed for this task, progress can be checked by holding a length of timber to the side of the vehicle, any 'lows' in the repair will be easily visible.

Looking good.

[paul2012]

Good work there

[RustWidow]

Wow good job tim

[Mad machinist]

Some more progress

The right hand side is now fully welded to the van, seam sealer has been applied to the external joints.

The artificial joint created where the lower part of the side panels were replaced has been filled. A large flat bed sander was employed for this task, progress can be checked by holding a length of timber to the side of the vehicle, any 'lows' in the repair will be easily visible.
Here we see it viewed from the front;

Viewed from the rear;


TIM

Flatbed sander rental fees very reasonable this time of year Tim, i can accept euros lol

[dieselhead123]

Managed to get some primer on the side on Sunday;


It will do until we get around to applying top coat.

Today we made a start on the front crossmember area, not much of the original left




And a hole in the chassis top plate below the steering box;


Some challenging times ahead

TIM

[karl]

those light pannels look ok just need repairing the bottoms,il be watching how the front turns out

[ColinJack]

Today we made a start on the front crossmember area, not much of the original left

And a hole in the chassis top plate below the steering box;

Some challenging times ahead

TIM

Easy Peas for a man of your talent!

[RustWidow]

Nothing you can't handle tim. But it does look bad

[Mr RVM]

That front crossmember is in about the same condition as the one on my yellow truck same rusty hole in chassis under steering box too (only I couldn't see that till I cut the front away as it was under the steering box reinforcement bracket) And it all turned out nice in the end so I'm sure Tim will sort it no problem couldn't help but notice how similar the Mk2 and 3 crossmembers are so at least they can still be got for reasonable money (Mk3 ones that is) I'm sure a Mk3 one would do the job if a pukka Mk2 one proves difficult to get hold of

[dieselhead123]

The 'cunning plan' does include trying the center part of a Mk3 crossmember RVM, but the whole thing is too long to use complete and the outer ends of the Mk3 are tapered back more.
Once a bit more of the rot is cleared away we will see how similar it is.

The chassis rail tops do look to be similar to the Mk3/4/5 ones, I have one in stock to compare and have already produced a CAD drawing to enable these to be copied. I am sure we will have to remove the steering box mounting from the inner wing to complete this part of the repair.

We all know that Mk3 front spring hangers can be modified to suit the Mk2, so perhaps it is not as bad as it would appear.

The only thong I am unsure of is the correct appearance of the front cross member closing panel, there is nothing left of the original, is it just a 'flat' cover

TIM