Mk5 Chassis Cab Restoration

[aussieboy]

Regarding your wheel arches As far I believe class 7 mot's dont require rear wheel arches however a pass and advise is given - It came up every time it was mot'd , I also understand that despite passing the mot without them it isnt legal to use on the public road's without them .
Thinking about it I changed alot of bits on your truck including the gearbox/ clutch etc.
Do you work for them or just know them ?.

[ginsambo]

No Just know them pretty well and buya grand's worth of trees from them every now and then.

Funny you say that as when I got it a clutch spring was busted and rattling making a hell of a racket and I had to replace it. Good box though. Was it a new replacement or just another used W3 MT75?

[aussieboy]

Hi not sure if the box was new rebuilt or s/h to be honest - we were doing alot of mk5's then including lots of the fencing trucks so it's all a bit of a blur.
Have you been buying from them for very long ?.
have you done anymore to the truck yet ? some pictures would be good !..

[ginsambo]

Almost a year and a half later and I'm back on it!

Dissassembled the dropside body, took off the chassis extension and dropped the back axle. Next job to get brakes, servo and heater unit out and take the windscreen out, which I always break. Apart from the 4 extra holes and extra crush tubes in the rear chassis for the extension, does anyone know if a MK5 EF chassis cab is any different from a normal chassis cab? As I'm thinking as its a pukka Soton transit that is on Etis, I'II run it as a 3.5T tipper.

Can't see there being a problem with dissembling it completely now to galvanise, as its so light, as long as I have a straight jig to reassemble it on and get it square it should be straightforward. Only problem with galvanising is that every little piece of lapped steel reinforcement has to be drilled out and dissassembled first.

Next will be the floor and rear cab panels. At least the chassis sopt welds are every two inches or more, which reduces the amount of drilling I'II have to do to about 3000 holes, rather than the 10,000 I was imagining.

[alcapone]

Almost a year and a half later and I'm back on it!
Can't see there being a problem with dissembling it completely now to galvanise, as its so light, as long as I have a straight jig to reassemble it on and get it square it should be straightforward. Only problem with galvanising is that every little piece of lapped steel reinforcement has to be drilled out and dissassembled first.

Next will be the floor and rear cab panels. At least the chassis sopt welds are every two inches or more, which reduces the amount of drilling I'II have to do to about 3000 holes, rather than the 10,000 I was imagining.

You're drilling welds to split the parts so they can be galvanised... but how will you re-assemble the parts?

[ginsambo]

Grind out a oversize circle with a dremel to fresh metal on the plate and clean out and make a tooled bit to abrade around the drill hole tand then plug weld together. Same as if I'm welding in galvanised plate - grind off the galv and weld, otherwise its gonna spatter everywhere. Of course there will be fresh metal bits around the spot welds which are the bits that rust the most but I can soak a lot of cold gal spray in there afterwards and use weld thru primer.

Or...to be honest I might just paint decently as if galvanising is a bit thick in places or drippy could cause headache, also paint adhesion to zinc is a bit of a nightmare. Or even assemble the whole thing and get it dipped/painted. Just that for the money galvanising the chassis and crossmember parts is nothing, but yeah it could come back all drippy.

[alcapone]

I look forward to seeing pictures of the finished product

[ginsambo]

I look forward to seeing pictures of the finished product

Hope you are patient....

[alcapone]

I look forward to seeing pictures of the finished product

Hope you are patient....