Kristianskaffe's MK7, 2.4 TDCI, RWD

[Kristianskaffe]

I think I can borrow the PCM from the breaker. Just need to get my mechanic to go there for me. He worked there for several years.

Does it says DCU101 on it or what do I get him to look for to be sure. I need to be quite explaining, as he hasn't been to involved with all this PCM stuff

If it fit, it could be a good thing to test I think.

[loot]

Dcu101 is the pcm type so mk7 euro 4.

Long number in the middle is the part number and the 4 top left is tear tag.

Make sure the other is dcu101 and you can reprogram it to your then

[Kristianskaffe]

Thanks a lot! I will get my mechanic to look. But the 2.2 is a 2008, so hoping it fits

[loot]

Thanks a lot! I will get my mechanic to look. But the 2.2 is a 2008, so hoping it fits

Yes, euro 4 is 2006-2011ish then euro 5 till 2016ish.

The pcm will 100% be the same i think but you'll need to initialize it and reprogram it.

[Kristianskaffe]

Yea, might need a bit of help with that

[Kristianskaffe]

Might as well get started. Talked to my mechanic and it shouldn't be a problem to at least borrow the PCM at the breaker.

Do I make a backup from the existing PCM and load into the new one
I see some different clips on YouTube, but some of them also mention reprogramming the keys, some don't.

I have done the module programming a few times now, as it was the only way to get rid of the limp mode, and then it says, that if the PCM is replaced, all the learns must be done again... But could loading a backup be a shortcut?

[loot]

You go to module installation and it will copy the info from your pcm and tell you to install the new pcm them it'll paste the info across, you'll then go into security, pats then module initialization them it'll program the pcm. You'll need incodes here.

http://Www.autokeyprog.com


I think that's how it goes, it may ask for incode when you install new module but you'll see, if you end up with no start and flashing red light it means you need to program keys, i doubt it tho.

[Kristianskaffe]

Sounds pretty easy actually and now I´m logged in at the autokeyprog, it also seems fairly straightforward.
Thx!

Strange thing today... I drove 40 km. and left the van, as I was working all day. Going back I had LOTS of black smoke and no power...Stopped, power off, startet again and it was gone...

Good thing I now have to wait, at least until tuesday until the breaker opens again...

Maybe I can get the headunit running again.. really strange it just stopped working. I´ll start with the fuse... and I also got the 4 x 35mm wire for the inverter... and then the seller only but in 2 eyelets instead of 4, so now I need to go get them somewhere.. How hard can it be...
I really enjoy the head unit... the sat nav from iGo is really a joy. Recommend any day even though it´s an old WinCe unit.. still delivers.. Eager to get the reversing cam. installed

[loot]

I have the Ford maps , it is very good but the female voice sounds a bit slow.

My unit in the mk7 that you have was good but the voice for sat nav was quiet

[Kristianskaffe]

So far so good



I'll have it tomorrow
Oh, how I hope it's going to work..

[Kristianskaffe]

Short version... No difference what so ever..

Longer version is that is was a bit nerve-racking... Once fitted I programmed the PCM without any problems... But doing the PATS was not that funny..
Don't know why, but I would not accept the codes I entered.. Did it 3 times and just would not work..
Tried the other options and thought about erasing the keys as I could not start the van.. Then the procedure told me, that I needed two keys as the van wouldn't start if there wasn't 2 keys programmed... And I couldn't find the spare key! Still haven't got a clue, where I put it.. So had to break of the procedure and was a bit nervous..

So tried one last time and suddenly there was no problem with the code and after 30 sec. I could start the van... Phew...

But but but.. Same same.. Not the best feeling
I'm had my fingers crossed, but really didn't think it would work.. Still a bit of a letdown..

So, what to do next.. Wires? Actuator, test the one from the 2.2?

[Kristianskaffe]

Well.. Something is a bit funny.. Haven't driving with the MAF connected for long periods of time due to the massive smoke. But figured I might as well try. Drove 2 x 50 km. today and at take off it suddenly drove as it is supposed to, at least I think. No smoke, no stutter from the turbo... Lots of turbo kick in, in the lower gears/speed.. Drove happily to Copenhagen, and was actually suspecting the MAF to disconnected.. It was not.. Slammed the hood back on... And we were back to normal.. Of course the IDS still tells my the turbo is stuck. It also say the actuator is stuck in its position.
So drove back, still stutter and stuff.. But 10 km. from home it went away.. All was good again... Turn it off at home, turned it on again and it was back to shite...
How the heck am I supposed to attack this.. It could be a bad wire somewhere and my mate says has has a tool (Mekker og Megger) that measures the wires and suggested we use that to test the wires..
All other suggestions are welcome.. It COULD be the actuator, but I doubt it, as I actually drives well sometimes..

[Airthies]

Always sounded like an intermittent wiring fault with it coming and going so much.
There always the worst to find....

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

[Kristianskaffe]

Always sounded like an intermittent wiring fault with it coming and going so much.
There always the worst to find....

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

Yea.. Could be true..
I'll start with the wires to/from the turbo and see how it goes

[Kristianskaffe]

Well, it will have to wait a couple of weeks I need it, the next couple of weeks and I can't risk the van being dead.. I know it's a fairly easy job, but so has some of the others been and some of them took way to look g because of this and that..
Would you suggest taking the 5 wires from the actuator and make new ones as a start.
As the van drives decent with the MAF unplugged, should I look into those too?

Good thing, the inverter is now fitted and runs perfectly. Even better it turns out that the remote control can power it off completely so I don't have to find the swith underneath the seat everytime.