Tom's Mk5 (2000) 150s SWB 2.5L 76ps Project

[ake]

whats forte?????

Injector cleaner. Other brands are available

[swbdave]

arrrhh i've never heard of/seen that around my neck of the woods, is it any good?

[MinorMatt]

its a trade only product - but you can get it from ebay

[Van1968]

its a trade only product - but you can get it from ebay

AndyG recommended after I contacted him (thanks Andy.. )..I remember seeing it on an air in fuel line post..low revs etc but couldn't remember where the post was when looking it back up..
I went to these people..very good to deal with and the cheapest at the time £12.40 each postage included..
lou2511
FORTE ADVANCED FORMULA DIESEL TREATMENT 400ML
Item ID:190545359170

Tom

[Van1968]

Hello..just about recovered from my night shift..
I did a little bit on Tuesday morning for a couple of hours..as you all know from following the post I had an oil leak coming from the back end of the rocker cover. A new gasket was installed, however, I didn't back it up with gasket sealant. The book that no one mentions was used for the tightnening pattern..here are a few pictures...
First I got down and dirty and took off the right side air intake piece and rocker cover..I wiped dry and gave the mating face a light sand down with grade 240 wet and dry.

I used the same wet and dry paper on the cover..help with the adhesion.

I took the the gasket back indoors and gave it a wash down in washing up liquid..rid residues of oil...a clean start and finish is on the agenda
Here is a close up of the gasket moulding..little what I would describe tram lines..I used these lines to follow and apply the sealant. I started on the lower side first (obviously I know ) my plan is to seal bottom and top with new gasket sandwiched in the centre..included in the picture is the "gooch" I used..good stuff too.

A picture of the bolting up pattern from the book that no one dare mention..(I read this from a post on this forum and thought it might be one of those OMEN 666, OR 999 things...or purley down to the fact if you do mention it...stop work now 'cos things and the work for the rest of the day is going to go tits up )

I then carefully laced another layer of sealant on the topside of the gasket while doing so I temporary and lightly fastened 4 bolts one i in each corner so when it came to offering the rocker up I would hit home..with the top layer of sealant on I quickly fitted the rocker cover. Once I had torqued the bolts I gently benched up the sides of the mating face with more sealant..proper job...

Some will say I have my work cut out cleaning up the surface when I carry out this work again...your right, However, I look at the benifits of not loosing oil, loosing compression and potentially causing more harm than good if it got really bad. Another positive, I won't have to worry about it for a while and or until I here horrid rattle sounds. I havn't started her up yet.. tomorrow is the day for that, sealant has had a good 3 days for curing/drying out.
That's it for now.. I'm off to say night to my nippers and have my scran..back in a bit to discuss my next engine refinement project can you guess what it is yet

[Van1968]

I have been reading a couple of posts on the topic of powering up a Bosch Pump..thanks to MarkM for posting a how to do on the subject...MarkM covered adjusting the Mid Range Fueling located on the top of the pump viewtopic.php?f=18&t=3968. Another post covering the same topic also touched on the Max Fueling screw viewtopic.php?f=4&t=122834 posted by tytek. The screw being located at the rear of the pump. A couple of replies from Jay and Minor Mat have provoked my thoughts and I need to ask questions so I get it right first time.
This is what I have and the part number on the top of pump reads 1 465 580 622. I took the cap off using a fine flat headed precision screwdriver to discover the allen key headed screw and locking nut had no anti tamper marks on.


On the rear of the pump I have a alloy casing bolted on..I havn't had time to inspect it further, but to take it off I think I have to undo the fuel lines first and then the lower bolts fastened to the engine. Then I would be able to access the Max Fuel Screw.
Now for the questions..MarkM covered the MidRange fueling and thanks to him I am able to do and understand whats needed. By carrying out this 10 minute job do I have to consider the Max Range Screw or can I leave it and still reep the benefits?

MinorMat mentioned in tytek's x4 turns mid Range and x2 turns on the Max range...that equates to a 2:1 ratio repectively...are these turns full from reference point to reference point (eg I make a reference mark on my pump locking nut and allen key and turn it clockwise to meet that reference point once equating to one full turn). If I follow MarkM I would be making two full turns and NO MORE. Anymore than two does it suggest you would NEED to look at the Max fuelling screw... Now for the Max Fueling screw..again, if I was to adopt MinorMat 's approach and get my van to go like stink and turn the midrange x4 full turns reference point to reference point, does the same apply to the Max Fueling Screw x2 full turns from reference point to reference point. Jay in tytek's post mentioned clockwise 1/4 turns at a time on the Max Fueling Screw until smoke appears..as soon as this happens turn back a 1/4....

I am a little confused..but my conclusions are with MinorMat comments you can be brave it and go the full on route and do the x4 full Turns Midrange Fuel and x2 full turns Max fuel screw (2:1)....If you want a bit more and some you can follow MarkM no more than two full turns and then Jay's comments 1/4 turn the Max fuel screw until black smoke comes then turn back a 1/4..or to keep it simple Follow MarkM's how to do x2 full turns on the Mid range but NO adjustments on the Max Fuel Screw and still get great results

Please advise on the best options/approaches...I don't want to overcomplicate matters. However, as you all know..I'm not scared to have a go. I do want to get the max from the pump and engine..I don't want to be struggling up hills...Please let me know your thoughts.
I'm having a play around tomorrow with leak detection..I have a couple and I plan to start her up check for leaks and maybe have a drive around for 10 mins.
Thanks for looking
Tom

[MinorMatt]

Ignore my post - that was for using a bosch pump on a turbo engine.

Just turn the top screw in until it starts smoking then back it off slightly. You should be well under 2 turns

[Van1968]

Ignore my post - that was for using a bosch pump on a turbo engine.

Just turn the top screw in until it starts smoking then back it off slightly. You should be well under 2 turns

Thanks for that MinorMatt..really appreciate your help..

[Van1968]

Hello
Been pottering around, I wasn't sure what the weather was going to do..while it was dry I took of the section at the bottom of the window screen..I have a leak drivers side coming through and down by the peddles and I have water coming through and landing on the starter motor...I needed to investigate and clear all the dirt that had accummilated over the course of time. After that I planned to start the engine and if no leaks go out for a spin.
I began work... taking the wipers off I had to prise them with a diy lever..I cleaned the threads and used some copper slip for next time.

After several squirts of foam cleaner and help with a screwdriver I cleaned the areas..lots of gunge..this is a picture of it after one clean..

I then blocked these two holes with a piece of foam and mastic..I did the other side too

Hopefully rain water will not land on the starter..as for the inside cab area..my feeling is the screw fittings that used to hold the engine bulk head blanket are responsible..I will use sealant to sort them..just got to get some first.

Now for the engine..before I started it up I tippexed the top allen key screw on the top of the pump..no picture on this..I let it dry and then I took the locking nut off..I marked the allen key adjusting screw once more and left that to dry.
I started the engine...nice quick turn over and it splutted into life..light blue colour smoke came from the back end...My guess FORT was coming through doing its magic with the injectors..I didn't go mad revving it up..I just let her tick over while I checked for rocker leaks. I couldn't see any leaks and it looked like the double mastic treatment done the job . While ticking over I left the header tank cap off so the coolant and system could burp itself..heater set to hot...I squeezed what pipes I could to help the process...Coolant level remained constant.

I decided to go for a spin..heaters on and blowing..took it through town for about 3 miles while driving the smokey haze began to clear. Pleasing I can tell you. Drove nice too, sooooo much better than when I first bought it...I noticed the temp gauge go up to a quarter (heaters on full blast hot air coming through)..parked up..engine still ticking over nice...felt the rad..cold..viscous fan running...heater pipes nice and hot...top right rad pipe to thermostat cool..lower left rad pipe cool (facing front of van) took the header cap off gave both pipes a squeeze for several minutes.
Whilst I was there I I then got the allen key and turned the adjusting screw clockwise..just under twice fully (reference point to reference point)..no evidence of smoke..locked it back up..put the header cap back on and headed back home for my wife to have a go (Not that she knew she was having a go..on her own too ) While driving back I was smiling..I had a van that wanted to go..I noticed the difference in the gear change too..new oil makes a big difference. Got back to my gaff..go on then love off you go..whats it like? you will find out..She made the same trip (heaters on full blast..lots of heat coming through) and turned back straight away. Well chuffed
Temp gauge half way, Checked the pipes again top right to thermostat coolant pipe nice and hot..lower left still cool..rad still cool...probably nothing to worry about...I might have to take it for a longer trip..work and back next monday 12mile there and back. I squeeze the lower left pipe and the top right moves with coolant being pushed and the coolant moves around in the header tank (with cap off)..I've left the cap off overnight to allow what air bubbles are left in the system to push through. I havn't had to top the coolant up..that might be different by tomorrow morning..we shall see.

As for the midrange allen key screw adjustment (Top of pump)..if I didn't get smoke from the turns I did..can I go a bit more until it does smoke then take it back a notch

More tomorrow..
Thanks for looking, reading and being generally nice folk..once again thanks MinorMatt for getting back to me.
Tom

[vanfox]

Ah, not needed!

[MinorMatt]

You can try taking it further - it won't damage anything.

You may not get much gain though and fuel consumption will start increasing

[Van1968]

You can try taking it further - it won't damage anything.

You may not get much gain though and fuel consumption will start increasing

I'm going to stick to what I've done just under two..Don't fancy the consumption going up..Thanks MinorMatt

[Van1968]

Hello again

More of an update on my driving experience to date and some feedback. I have some questions that will be for those members who have thought about it and carried out the work...
The first 3 start ups have been quick turnovers but a bit slutterie and smokey...Things are improving though...yesterday morning..brilliant..freezing cold and she turned fast and fired up nice..with normal start up haze....last night after 13hrs of stationary..fired up no probs..techniques I've found work best..foot down on both clutch and gas peddle..turn the key and hey presto...really chuffed.

Each trip I've made to and from work I have taken off the header tank to allow for any trapped air to travel up..as heat pushes through any air bubbles trapped...Each time the level has dropped and I have topped it up. The cooling system is acting as is should..after reading Haynes and a post on a topic about an expansion tank and a response from AndyG, I'm happy all is good. The temp gauge reads half way after around 5/6 miles of driving(Leaving heater blower off but setting gauge to hot) and sticks to it. I won't be taking the expansion cap off anymore..I topped up a bit this morning and I've decided thats it. The system will sort itself out naturaly as according to Haynes.

Okay..The driving has been fine....a little noisy in the cab area..very noisy when I open her up......I have no insulation inside or on the engine bay..ripped it all out inside because it was wet and stinking...In the engine bay the blanket had deteriated..so ripped that out also...I plan to stick some cloud nine carpet underlay using the already attached screw clips (engine bay) backed up with double sided sticky tape...before that strips of flashband to minimise the vibration noise from the panels/van itself. I appreciate I have no weight on the van...no boards, insulation, personal stuff eg lunch box kids, wife, extra set of rear seats, possible storage areas. if I did..I would possibly hear less and the engine and diff would sound and act like it was working how it was designed for..loaded up

I can get the speedo upto about 70mph (pos a bit more)..Engine pulls okay but I don't like how hard (noisy) its working when it goes over 50..so I tend to keep it to below 50mph even though I feel I need to loan ear defenders from an aircraft carrier operative working next to jet engines. While driving to and fro to work...covered about 52 miles so far....used just under a quarter of tank of fuel...I've been thinking and those who have been following my post will have realised by now I am a thinker...I like getting my hands dirty also "says the blue rubber glove man".

Here are my thoughts and scenarios.. I would like your honest and best practical opinions..
Other than travelling to work...I would like to hit the coasts with my family..hopefully come to some Transit meets and meet some of you nice folk....
To get the best from the van and enjoy the drive and not worry about stressing the engine with my family on board and equally travelling on the motorway at a safe speed..not too slow to make me flap and panic all the time when crazy fools suddenly realise when coming up my back end...man in white van is not a speedster. I don't want to be looking in my wing mirrors all the time...just some of the time when I am overtaking
I would like to get more from the engine so we will be safe and I can cruise at 70mph...not batter the engine at 70mph..not interested at going any faster..unless I'm on my own .
I have read that I can turbo the engine using the bosch pump I have (Where is the pump part number located I have found one on top of the pump ,where the midrange pump screw is as mentioned above..is it right..1 465 580 622 and how can I determine size/type as different bosch types have been quoted..I would like to know which one is best for the job )..

I have worked out thanks to vin plate identification the following
First the transmission and clutch W8 - MT75 Wide ratio 4.17-would I need to consider C8-MT75 Close ratio 3.89 especially if I go 100/115ps route!
I don't want gearbox problems and again if I make the changes I'm looking for long term durability and the best option.
Engine code 4HB 75ps...Realisticaly what can I max at before the need to changing the head for a TD one?
Rear axle type L-51a heavy sailsbury (less LSD) What does LSD stands for ?
Differential Ratio J - 5.14...suitable for pulling/carrying heavy loads...If I'm planning on more longer distance trips..100 miles here and there..it would make sense to look at the 4.63 ratio. (6 stud wheels) Another thought.. if I turbo the engine..the diff will not allow me to get the best from the engine and benefit from the motor way cruising..again, I would be working both gearbox and engine hard..the balance needs to be right.

You can see I'm searching for the best options for the engine, first to help it from the stress and strains I'm going to put it under, secondly safety when on the roads when the family are on board....
Let me know your thoughts and experiences...all welcome to contribute
Thanks for looking..
Tom

[RonTransitmk5]

well done, I have learn't so much from you.

Keep up the good work & the pics

[welshmec]

excellent thread and good work fella, i had a similar idiot moment when i changed my fuel filter and freaked out because the engine wouldnt start no matter what i did, when i traced my work back to find the fault it turned out the idiot who did the work (myself) knocked loose the fuel stop solenoid cable, big time dohhh. lesson learnt though.