Gaz's Mk3 truck

[Mr RVM]

More pictures of YELLOW paint








didn't get much more than that done today having learned that a good friend of mine had passed away this morning so wasn't really in the mood to work

[celtic0125]

Cool looks good wish i had time and space to do my flareside oh and money lol

[Mr RVM]

Got the floor painted yellow last night and started to "knock the top off" the doorsteps and chassis in preparation for its second (hopefully final) coat of paint
working late tonight but 2 days off (tomorrow and Monday) so more painting didn't realise how long the painting stage would go on for (to make a nice job)

after much searching ive found out that no windscreen manufacture Mk3 windscreens any more they only do them with the ceramic banding the same pattern as the Mk5 so gutted as I am I'm going to have to fit a Mk5 screen God (and the Massive) forgive me but I have no choice (unless I pay hundreds to have a one off made)

[karl]

Coming on now mate epic work I have it all to come

[Mr RVM]

Coming on now mate epic work I have it all to come

You certainly have the best bit of advice I could give you (looking at the extent of the work you'll need to do) is to get hold of a cheap laser (around £20) and set this up at the rear of the chassis (stand it on something fixed across the 2 rearmost "bed" brackets) so that it fires a horizontal line across the rear of the cab, mark the line on the cab with a marker pen, this will give you a "reference point" at the start and as you do the repairs keep checking that the laser is still aligned with the pen mark (it WILL move off the line as you do the repairs, welding on the bottom will pull it down as it cools and obviously welding on the top will pull it up) If it moves "too far" ie over 3mm (that's about the tolerance ford worked to when they made it according to the book with chassis plans/dimensions I have...Genuine ford publication) do a few "dummy" weld runs opposite the repair to pull it back (unless the repair is thru the full height of the chassis in which case it should balance out) try not to do too much welding concentrated in the same area all at once, keep an eye out for any overall movement and compensate by welding elsewhere (opposite) to limit the distortion
I used this method when I re-attached the chassis to my truck and when finished I checked and double checked everything and its all within acceptable limits (less than 3mm over the length of the chassis) and a lot cheaper than having it on a "jig" for days, weeks (or in my case) months

Of course I might have been too fussy but that's me all over....Just like things to be right (or at least as near as possible)

slowly but surely and all that.....cant wait to see some progress on yours

[karl]

Coming on now mate epic work I have it all to come

You certainly have the best bit of advice I could give you (looking at the extent of the work you'll need to do) is to get hold of a cheap laser (around £20) and set this up at the rear of the chassis (stand it on something fixed across the 2 rearmost "bed" brackets) so that it fires a horizontal line across the rear of the cab, mark the line on the cab with a marker pen, this will give you a "reference point" at the start and as you do the repairs keep checking that the laser is still aligned with the pen mark (it WILL move off the line as you do the repairs, welding on the bottom will pull it down as it cools and obviously welding on the top will pull it up) If it moves "too far" ie over 3mm (that's about the tolerance ford worked to when they made it according to the book with chassis plans/dimensions I have...Genuine ford publication) do a few "dummy" weld runs opposite the repair to pull it back (unless the repair is thru the full height of the chassis in which case it should balance out) try not to do too much welding concentrated in the same area all at once, keep an eye out for any overall movement and compensate by welding elsewhere (opposite) to limit the distortion
I used this method when I re-attached the chassis to my truck and when finished I checked and double checked everything and its all within acceptable limits (less than 3mm over the length of the chassis) and a lot cheaper than having it on a "jig" for days, weeks (or in my case) months

Of course I might have been too fussy but that's me all over....Just like things to be right (or at least as near as possible)

slowly but surely and all that.....cant wait to see some progress on yours

cheer mate advice always needed even if we all think we know it
once i get it back to the yard monday i will move the thread to progrees section

[Mr RVM]

Shiny Floor.....




and more of the chassis....

[karl]

[Mr RVM]

Hoofookingray the chassis is FINISHED ....but....I forgot to take the camera

[celtic0125]

Lol oh well

[RustWidow]

Well at least it's finished. Good job!

[ColinJack]

Hoofookingray the chassis is FINISHED ....but....I forgot to take the camera

That's a fantastic result ... brilliant to see someone doing a proper 'bottom up' job properly.

[Mr RVM]

Pictures of the finished chassis......









Cant wait to start putting the axle/suspension back in but working for next 8 days so wont be done quick

[ColinJack]

Cant wait to start putting the axle/suspension back in but working for next 8 days so wont be done quick

Work is what pays for it!

[Mr RVM]

Cant wait to start putting the axle/suspension back in but working for next 8 days so wont be done quick

Work is what pays for it!

True Colin very true and I suppose I do need a new paintbrush