loot wrote:You need the capacitor it builds up power and discharges it, it is only 16v so it is very gentle, not like those 1.21gigawatt ones you used to bridge to blow them up 4 a laff
I fitted the 2 ceramic resistors but you don't need them, you can't use a resistor but on the Ford mini relay there is a resistor which will station the capacitor to 0v but it will do that through the relay coil anyway.
The capacitor works both directions so it is able to recharge both ways, i thought it was like a diode and reversing the power wouldn't work, it does and it warms up (the system is never active long enough to warm it up tho, in fact it isn't on long enough to give the cap full charge and that means it doesn't hold as long as it did on the bench, but it does latch long enough to overcome the wake up for unlocking)
Anyway if you want to copy my setup that's fine.
So you need about 18 inches of cable, i had a length already of 2 core 1.5mm/1.0mm whatever the kids these days use
Relay, standard 1 but i used the Ford mini type.
4700uf 16v capacitor, found mine in a car radio along with the ceramic ballast resistors.
1 or 2 ballast resistors just because i had them and felt they might add some sense of added safety to it
5watt 0.3ohm (no reason for that except they were in with the capacitor so I'll trust Visteon maths ppl.
Door actuator connector unplugs nicely and you can cut wire pin3 15mm from the connector then strip the 2 part wires and join them to each wire you have for the relay coil that has the cap etc on it. It is bidirectional and a solid wire when cut becomes positive and negative (provided you have a load fitted otherwise it becomes a dead short ie removing a light bulb and linking both terminals. In this case there is already a load (door actuator) so connect there.
Male side shown.
Then the other 2 wires connected to the mirror switch pin 4 and 8.
I used heat shrink etc to clean up and gaffer tape on the actuator the same as for did