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1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby dumper » Fri Oct 04, 2019 10:59 am

I’ve seen posts on hear saying that the arm does sometimes bend and needs replacing
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
dumper
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Fri Oct 04, 2019 6:40 pm

dumper wrote:I’ve seen posts on hear saying that the arm does sometimes bend and needs replacing


Wow. OK. I only had time to do some parts cleaning today, and the arm itself seems to be undamaged. The little spring clip at the end is bent up on one side more than the other, and there is a tiny bit of play in the rivet. Negligible, I hope. I can tweak the spring a bit to make a tighter fit, if that is advisable. I just don't want to have to do this whole job again especially for such a seemingly insignificant part. In my case, the arm had popped out of location while I was trying to press the clutch pedal as far to the floor as possible in the vain hope of getting it into gear at that intersection with heavy traffic. I could hear a loud pop, but after that, the clutch DID engage properly for a couple more gear changes, then the cable snapped. I'm trying to figure out all the possible causes so this doesn't repeat. Tomorrow I shall make a gallant attempt to take off the clutch, and then I should be able to make a more accurate assessment. Thanks for all the help.
Mike
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Sun Oct 06, 2019 8:13 pm

Day 5 of the clutch replacement. I'd call it successful. So far nothing broken, but I also hope that I won't encounter any further delays or surprises or additional costs. :lol:

It's been 12 years since the instructional thread was written, and today's replacement rear main seal calls for NO grease on the shaft, and my part also came with a guide sleeve which allowed the seal to slide onto the shaft and then be removed, leaving the seal in place. That worked in theory, but in practice there is a spring dowel rising up from the crank end, which forced me to withdraw the guide sleeve before the seal had been seated properly. I did add Lock-Tite to the outer surface of the seal, as per the tutorial thread's instructions, and gently hammered in the new seal into position using the old seal as a guide.

But, I'm getting ahead of myself. Removing the clutch was straight-forward after I finally located the timing hole and peg, as mentioned in the tutorial. I used a big screwdriver. Additionally, and prior to that, I had to figure out how to secure the clutch and later the flywheel to unbolt the bolts. See, this is where experience comes in, and next time I do it, it'll take less time. :lol: :roll: :P And, also due to my lack of experience, I'd like to ask if anyone sees anything unusual in my pictures. Is the flywheel OK? I don't see any real "bluing" but your opinion may differ, and if so, please enlighten me. For sure I can see some kinds of discolored spots but the metal all seems fine. I'll go over it with some fine sandpaper I guess, but does it need to be professionally turned? The metal all seems undamaged. No cracking as far as I can make out. The teeth for the starter have a bit of gouging on one edge for about 10 splines or so. Doesn't seem too bad but I can debur those splines. What caused it? Starter problem, or clutch problem?

The clutch I removed is LUK brand, and dated 2006. So clearly it was replaced then, in Poland. Why would a clutch go out so quickly? Unless the odometer has many hundreds of thousands more kilometers than the indicated 236K? And, please tell me if this even looks bad. The pressure plate itself seems nearly new, undamaged. At least to me. The disc doesn't seem to be in bad shape. There are a few hairline cracks, but it's not even worn down to the rivets yet. What is going on? Did I waste all week removing a working, good clutch? Why won't it engage, then? Perhaps it's greasy from a leaky rear main seal? What is the official verdict? Is the oil visible around the seal coming from the seal itself? Is this what caused the clutch to fail? I will of course install the new Sachs clutch assembly, but I'd love to know if I will have solved the problem by doing so.

I used the method recommended in the tutorial to remove the rear seal: two screws. Unfortunately, one screw made contact with the crankshaft end, and gouged it a bit. I sanded it down with 400 and then 1500 paper and it all seems to be as smooth as a baby's bottom. But in checking, I noticed that it had been slightly damaged in the same way in another location, presumably the last time the clutch was replaced in 2006, and that might have contributed to early failure of the seal, right? It does appear to be letting in oil. So, having honed that surface, and the opposite surface on the cover plate (aluminum), which had been gouged a bit by a screwdriver in the past, I cleaned it out and installed the new seal. It seems to be just very happy there now. I hope that I will be able to locate that bearing at the end of the crank. I'll ask at Ford tomorrow. The one in there now is a replacement, made in Poland. Not sure if it's working well or not but I'll replace it if I can find the part.
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Sun Oct 06, 2019 8:30 pm

One very noticeable difference between the LUK clutch and the new Sachs clutch is that the old clutch has 4 dual spring sets, while the new Sachs unit has 6 springs, 2 each of 3 different sizes. I guess this represents an improvement?
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Sun Oct 06, 2019 8:44 pm

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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Sun Oct 06, 2019 9:00 pm

I'd like to know where each of the bellhousing bolts go: there are 4 long ones and 5 shorter ones. And the starter motor bolts are all different. I sense a chance to muck up this simple job. :lol:
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Sat Oct 12, 2019 12:25 am

dumper wrote:I’ve seen posts on hear saying that the arm does sometimes bend and needs replacing


Bingo! This seems to have been my problem all along. Or at least after replacing the arm, I hope I won't have any more trouble. Yes, the clutch is old and worn but not enough to preclude its proper operation, I surmise. After Dumper's post, I began to look at the arm carefully, and my pictures of the transmission immediately after removing it. Why is the bushing out of its place in the arm? Can it fall out so easily, or had it already come off (again)? Surely if the arm were not in position (with the button in the transmission housing fitting into the depression on the arm), and the bearing out of its position in the arm itself, then how could it work at all? It didn't take long to see that the depression in my arm had been rendered completely useless due to bending of the arm itself into a new position, with the depression greatly increased enough for the arm to slip off its mounting button/knob completely! Sure enough, there are tell-tale wear marks where the throw-out bushing had been moved out of position by the ever-changing position and increasing size of the depression. I couldn't find the exact same part number (as mentioned before in this thread), but a very similar arm was procured online and it is nearly an inch longer, which seems to give it a better mechanical advantage (longer reach of the lever), so perhaps that's the improvement or fix Ford made for this issue. I will install it and see how it goes. This is why I was interested in finding the cause of my symptoms, and not just replacing the clutch. I hope this is the solution.
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Sat Oct 12, 2019 12:45 am

Day 6. I procured and installed the new bushing at the end of the crankshaft. The old one came out essentially effortlessly with the new tap I made from a tapered brush handle and copious amounts of bearing grease behind the old bearing. She slid out begrudgingly but easily. Having cleaned up the area, I tapped in the new bearing using the old one to center it. The pictures show the new bearing in place, and the tap I made for the job.

I spent time cleaning parts and also applying the new 3M reflective tape to the van. I will feel a whole lot better knowing people at least now will have a chance to see me at night before running over me. I'm very happy with the improvement and will in fact buy some more to finish the job.
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Thu Oct 17, 2019 10:40 am

Not much progress due to lack of time, but I wanted to determine if the flywheel was OK and what looked like cracking turned out to be old stains of some kind, and after taking some 400 grit sandpaper to the mating surface of the flywheel, I saw that those stains disappeared. It is a relief that the flywheel does not need to be replaced. I was able to remove virtually all of the wear marks on the flywheel's contact surface with the clutch. In the picture you can also make out damage caused by the last person to remove the flywheel, who apparently used a screwdriver and hammer to remove the seal and it left plenty of scars. Anyway, that's not a real problem. I deburred and filed down the damaged teeth on the flywheel, also. Now I'm ready to put it all back together. Wait! First I have to remove that exhaust pipe, but that should be easier now that the transmission is removed.
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Sun Oct 20, 2019 8:25 pm

Day 7. Mostly cleaning transmission and other parts, and inspecting everything. Still haven't removed the exhaust pipes but today I pretty much finished up cleaning the parts, a hated but necessary chore. I noticed that the input shaft to the transmission has wear marks, grooves, carved into it from the clutch. Not sure how this happened, and appeal to experienced people to provide commentary. Honed it down the best I could by hand with 400 grit paper. Indentations remain, however.
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Sun Oct 20, 2019 8:30 pm

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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby dumper » Sun Oct 20, 2019 10:14 pm

When the MT75 box came out on the Sierra we had a least 6 all go back under warranty for clutch rattle due to wear on the tube the release bearing runs on in you photos they where alloy and where replace with a steel one
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
dumper
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Location: Lincolnshire

Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Mon Oct 21, 2019 5:51 am

Yes, my tube is forged steel! And even so it has considerable wear. I can't imagine it being made of aluminum. Would this part be available as a replacement part, should I ever want to rebuild such a transmission? What other option is there when such a procedure becomes necessary? I don't particularly like the wear on my tube, but I imagine it will survive a while longer.
Mike
hetman
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Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby dumper » Mon Oct 21, 2019 10:02 am

When Ford changed them to steel ones they had a special socket to un screw it and put a new one on the biggest job was getting the box out of the car
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
dumper
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Posts: 3816
Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 2:56 pm
Location: Lincolnshire

Re: 1995 Transit SWB High Roof 2.6t cargo 2.5 Di

Postby hetman » Mon Oct 21, 2019 10:07 am

I guess it's high time I started gathering parts for the future. I know Ford doesn't seem to be interested in maintaining parts availability for these vans.
Mike
hetman
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