Chris's medium mk7

[hilton484]

Hey all

Finally starting a thread on my van, I got it to use for festivals in summer but bought a bit of a mess so the first stage is to fix it up before doing any proper conversion etc.

All in the van seems to drive ok, was rather sloppy at first but I found the brakes needed doing, the wishbones rear bushes were knackered and the tyres were rubbish.

Got some new tyres fitted first, did the rear brakes next, new pads disks cleaned the calipers up and new handbrake cables. I changed the engine oil but not the filter as I could get the cap off (got a spare cap now so will change it soon)

I've fitted a new set of glow plugs and found the link wire was rotten at the terminal now found a used one and fitted. Gave the inlet a clean out while it was off.

Around this time I used it for its first festival and it made it to and from silloth from Preston but the wishbone slop was very noticeable.

After the festival was done with I started the first major issue, the wishbones. Normally an easy job but the rear bush bol had seized into the subframe.

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[hilton484]

So driver side went ok, but the passenger side the bolt just would not shift. 6ft jack handle on 3/4" ratchet and 1 pulling while the other hammered didn't even creak it. Ended up cutting through the wishbone bush to get that out of the way, tried the breaker bar with pipe wrench on the bolt shaft + heat and wd40 etc still no movement.

So then I cut the bolt head off so I could remove the subframe, but then I was confused as the subframe wouldn't come off. After lots of reading around I decided I would need to access the nut though the footwell ( think this advice was aimed at a Mondeo) was a waste of time as there was a floor then another floor then way down after that another floor, so patched that back up and went from the outside.

I cut a flap to see what the deal was. Tried to wire brush it and heat it and wd40 it and pipe wrench it out but no budge. So I got another and cut the leg out of it haha. This let me move the subframe somewhere more convenient

Then I cut the whole nut off and got the leg off the subframe. By this point it felt like a huge achievement already. To get the bolt out of the subframe I had to drill all the way through 12mm a bit off centre and it actually kinda slotted the bolt then just tapped it out, luckily the subframe hole was unmarked and the new bolt had loads of clearance without me cleaning it up or anything (same as the other side)

Oh the front subframe bolt also came loose before I got the nut off so had to cut the in half too. That one it turns out you do change through the footwell so had to cut another hole out for that (after making a flap in the leg to find an tube, and having welded and spraying the floor after the other hole)

Finally it could start going back together, first thing was to fix the leg I cut out. I ended up making it from 2mm sheet rather than just putting the old bit back on. It's far from perfect but seems to be doing fine. At this point I began to see this van as a practice for the next one, I can always swap the brakes wishbones etc onto a cleaner van or keep for spares.

As this all took a while I'd ordered more parts to replace so also fitted new front wheel hubs/bearings, the front disks and used a rebuild kit for the calipers, fitted new pads and brake hoses.

Then it was back on the road again and seemed to be going good. Still a little bit bouncy so maybe wants new shocks and springs but the wheel sinking in mud feeling has gone.

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[hilton484]

Since it was off the road for a while, I did some other bits while I was waiting. I stripped the dash and door cards out and all the plastic panels from the back. Took the cabin top shelf out and the seats out. Scrubbed all the floor with soapy water and scotchbrite/burtex made it all a lot nicer. All the bluey grey parts got scrubbed and sprayed with gun metal rustoleom paint and I got the stereo I had In my car fitted along with the wire to go to the amps, reverse cams and parking sensors. Also had to find a source for reverse light power to the stereo so that it would know to put the cam screen on. Got all that refitted, think I may need to do Matt clear on the cubby lids to reduce reflection on windscreen but it's not too bad looks much better than it did to me

I also got some recaro seats off eBay, £130 for the pair and they a from a ford (focus st) I like them, they don't look too new in an old van and they a really comfy, just need to tilt the steering wheel to be less flat and I will be even better.

I had to chop the feet off the seats and I got some steel box section to bolt to the seat box and welded the seat runner to this. It's not perfect, the heat made runners a bit rougher but I'm confident it is strong enough. I got a used seat box to do the same for the passenger side, nice that the bolt pattern on the floor is the same both sides, plus in future I have room to add 2 more batteries.

I was also getting rather annoyed with the drivers door as no matter how hard I slammed it, it still seemed like it should have another click. It turned out the pillar behind the catch loop was rotten allowing the loop to move around so a cut that out and replaced with some sheet. By the time I've finished this van I might actually be good at welding haha.

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[hilton484]

Almost up to date now so this post is just few extra pics, victory pic of the subframe.

I drew the 3rd brake light with fusion360 on the computer and modified it to hold one of the reverse cameras, still needs a bit of tweaking but quite happy with the result, the idea is for this cam to be on all the time as a rear view mirror (handy for when bike disappear behind you) and the camera on the stereo is in the bumper and only come on in reverse, thought lower would be better for bay parking etc but not sure, it works either way. And also have a cheap parking sensor kit in the bumper. I can manage with the mirrors and have gotten more used to it, but I want it to be easy and this is just give a lot more peace of mind there no one just walked out behind or whatever.

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[hilton484]

So as it stands now the main thing that are a problem are the sills and abs problem, exhaust ain't great but I think that will lead to drilling bolts out of the engine so it will do for now.

Sills will hopefully arrive tomorrow to get welded in at some point, got some sheet to repair some parts of the inner.

The abs problem is getting me a bit. Right front wheel speed sensor either short or open.
I checked resistance to ground on both pins to loom and 1 was short. Unplugged abs pump and it's not short, so I jumped the gun and got a used module... And then another cause I didn't check part number, doh.

Fitting that went as expected.. the 2nd pipe sheared. So made new lines for front, and new up to the join just Infront of the fuel tank. Left the feed lines as they undid ok. Also made a new bottom bracket for fuse box and cut and replaced the piece below it where the earth's go as they were rotten

Bled all 4 wheels with a block of wood as man 2, then bled with forscan, had to go get a pressure bleeder but it worked ok only ran it once as it made foam towards the end of the runs so re bled it with just pressure bleeder and it's was good enough to check if lights went out.

Got it back on wheels and calibrated longitudinal sensor and went round block as it has to go over 15mph to clear but unfortunately its still there.

I've checked the ring (teeth on driveshaft) cleaned them up a bit with wire brush and brake clean, wiped off some metal that was on end of sensor and checked it isn't touching or too far and seems okay so I think I'm back to wiring.

Does any one know the routing, I think it goes to the 90deg bung in firewall but guessing it goes across to the other side rather than through and to the module? Going to unwrap it and follow it to see. Could the fault be between ECU and abs module or would that mean none of it would work. Live data show speed from other 3 wheels but 0 from f.r.

I'll find it eventually, once I've sorted that and sills there a few other bits to tidy up like the floor over bump stops bit of patching on wheel tubs. Going to go round all the bottom half cleaning up all the paint, eventually will replace the side door for one with a window. Then sort the paint on top half and underneath and I'll be fairly happy with the shell of it. The next task after that will probably be the exhaust and a heavy service/ small rebuild of the engine/bay. I want to improve later but it's wet round the turbo and just feels like it gungy, could just be because it's only 85bph but seen enough from inlet to want to clean it up more.

Should be good enough then to put a floor bed and table in for festivals then. If all's running good by then I'll be looking to delete egr and get either a better or just a new turbo and get remapped at vantuner, this is when I'll decide on which turbo, replacing ECU, injectors, pistons or whatever else it might need to go about 150bhp ish based on what they think.

That's the plan for now anyway

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[hilton484]

So I got to the bottom of the abs fault. Stupidly the new wss I got after I broke one during the wishbone stage had failed for some reason.

Glad I did the brake lines as they were yuk, got a spare abs module now too lol. At some point I'll do the rear brake lines too but not yet.

Got all the wiring wrapped back up and fuse box back together, the washer pump started making noise the day before the new one turned up, may as well change it anyway, sods law I'll fill it up and it will stop working again haha.

Cleared all the loose tools and rubbish back out the van ready to start the sills.

I've got the front outer arch and sill and real sill and front rear arch panels for both sides and some sheet for the inner bits where needed.

Started on the passenger side as that was the worst from the door crunch bit. Gave the front arch and sill a good stabbing inner and outer and all seems good, think the step will go first but all solid so I'll brush it down treat it and refinish it with the rest. I don't mind saving the new panels for when they do go.

I marked some lines around the rear sill parts and flap wheeled the edges to get the loose bit off and used my new mini belt sander to get behind the door and sand away most of the spots.

I cut a bit short of the marks so I didn't end up with big gaps, I'll make a closer cut when it sits closer and better to mark.

Ended up losing more of the inner than I was expecting but easy enough to make up. I just need to clean up the edge left of the inner sill and cut a bit more in a few spots then I can clamp the outer to make the bits for the inner and rear end.

Hopefully tomorrow I will have it welded and ground ready for a bit of filler. Thinking after sanding the filler back, red oxide primer then stonechip then paint and lacquer.

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[hilton484]

Not quite done but happy with progress.

Got the inner sill welded on wasn't happy with a section at the top back of the door was bit too flimsy so cut it out and put an L piece in above.

Started with the back piece by mocking it up and checking with a long 2x4 to get line up as best I can, bit tough with the door and inner arch being way off, should have got a full arch really to get the shape of the arch flare back better, o well.

Got the sill lined up trimmed a bit much off which I need to put back in the front side but it lined up better, drilled 6.5mm holes every 2" and plug welded it in place, then I welded to the rear part.

By then I thought of the neighbours and decided not to get the angle grinder going again to cut the bit to fill the front gap. light was dimming too so decided the weld the top and bottom edges up so it's ready for grinding back tomorrow after filling the gap.

Going to flap wheel the welds down and primer it, hope the other side will just about do for now, re bleed the abs with forscan and do a few other little bits that need doing and hope it will get through the MOT as need to use it on Tuesday. After that I should have time to do the other side and the floor and wheel tub repairs. Then i can spend more time doing the filler, sanding, stonechip, paint, lacquer etc without rushing it too much.

The door looks much worse now as it already looks much better, looking forward to seeing it finished up

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[hilton484]

Taking longer than hoped but getting there.

I sorted out the little gap at the front and then the piece to close the back end of sill. Didn't go too bad, a few tricky bits bending the different bits with a chisel and punch to join together smoothly. Then came to fix the weird box bit at the back and had a bit of a nightmare with it, was gonna go smoother in my head but after a lot of faffing got something a bit like what was there haha.

Im happy to say the welding for that sill is now done, in the morning I will sand all the welds down and give it some primer

In my head I always think it will go smooth and be done in a few hours then realise I spent like 8 hours to get 1/3 of the way haha, but at least it is getting done

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[hilton484]

So decided not to rush myself to try and use it today and rent a car for the day, some newish 4dr Corsa, very different to drive than the transit haha.

I did get all the welds sanded down and must be getting better at welding as I only made one little hole after getting the excess off.

Went over it all with red oxide primer ready to add a little filler then stone chip and paint, got an idea for a paint job I can do in stages but think I'll Photoshop it up first.

Tomorrow I'll get it off the stands and check the other side out and rebleed the brakes then that's out the way and a few other odd jobs.

I got a new washer for the rear stub axle as it has a slight bit of play but it is a new hub/ bearing. Worth trying the washer first as it's cheap but I think it could be the stub axle if this doesn't help.

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[hilton484]

Got a few bits done and now started the d/s.

I re did the abs bleed with forscan, pedal feels better now, and I swapped the stub axle washer on rear d/s. It does feel like reduce the play a bit, but there is still a bit so think I'll replace the stub axle at some point, it is only slight so could even be normal.

I realised I made disconnecting the battery much harder for myself than needed, when I re attached them I cranked the seat height to top and was much easier. The photo also show the remade battery cables with proper terminal clamps I did when the seats etc were out.

I refitted the stereo and wired some bits up better. I put the parking sensors and pioneer cam power to the reverse feed and to the stereo reverse feed in. I had 2 inline fuses I decided to leave when I removed the tracker thing and dash bits, worked out the one going to red/white is always on but the other is only on ignition. So the cheap cam + screen is now on that and the remote from stereo to the amps as normal.
I did have to cut a wire on the adaptor as the stereo remote wire connected to something that was always on, everything still works without it but the remote works as it should now.

Wire brushed the rust off the wheel tubs and bump stops from the inside as it was a bit rainy but then decided to crack on with the sill as it stopped raining.

Not as bad as the other side just doing the main outer sill and ended up doing the inner because it was too floppy. Got the back half of the inner welded up the got to trim the second strip to fit and weld that in then put the outer on.

The wheel tubs aren't to bad at the moment, I'm sure I'll get some and replace them at some point along with the other sill bits I've not done and front steps but so I can get the MOT sorted I'll cut and patch the bits with holes, think the bump stop patches will be done later as they are just unsightly bumps but not holes lol.

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[hilton484]

Only a little progress today, got some crud in my eye a few days ago and it was quite irritated so woke up at half 4, by time I'd got back to sleep and woke up it was 2

Bit of a fiddly bit at the front as had to do it from underneath the van but got it done. Tomorrow it's ready to clean the edges up and stick the outer sill on and coat with primer.

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[hilton484]

Got the sill finished today without too much work was meant to go for MOT at 2 and was running a bit late so was about to go without the primer.

Then went to set off and brake pedal went straight to floor. Can't see any leaks round the new lines and all the bleed nipples are dry as I left them.

Don't think its caliper related and not convinced its the new lines or module. I have a feeling I knackered the master cylinder.

Maybe its got air stuck from when it was disconnected and drained, possibly dragged crud through as it's been flushed through? I also didn't have a syringe after the pressure bleed so I left it full to the brim and went round the block to test and all seemed fine, after doing drivers sill gone.

Seen they have cheap ones on eBay so seems common, I've checked the vacuum with my thumb and it was there and the servo went poof when I pulled the valve out. Also blew the valve and it only went one way so no problem there and it would be hard pedal if the servo was the fault.

Had to top the fluid up with the last 1/4L so it's gone somewhere or a lot of air made its way back up.

Gonna get it on stands and check if it has enough force to grip each wheel and see if it bleeds a lot of air out of any corner manually with the pedal.

New job next week so won't be able to MOT it till Friday which sucks cause I need it for the week, bloody transit lol

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[hilton484]

Not much done today, tried to rebleed,no joy.

Took the master cylinder off, was hard work as the lower bolt had corrosion holding m/c on.

After removing, I pulled the plungers out and inspected it. I half expected it to be all pitted and rusty but all looked okay.

After discussion with a friend about bench bleeding we think that there should be fluid between the two plungers so the first pushes the second with the fluid rather than with the spring.

To fill this up I had to almost fully remove piston 1 and push back in to remove bubbles, I blocked the out holes with some old fittings. After this it seemed firm in the vice so divided to refit.

Started bleeding and got a fairly firm pedal, travelled about half way. Was just doing a final go round then I could hear fluid squirting somewhere. I turned out to be just behind the fuel tank luckily near a join.

So cut it flared it and made a piece with the copper left from front and fitted then rebleed and it seems to be working. Pedal goes a bit far but think it just want more bleeding as only did a quick job of it after the repair.

Will see if it's all gone tomorrow and go from there.

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[hilton484]

Some good news today,

Had the MOT done while at work, and it passed with a few bits needed. (Should have been done before pass really but the guy wasn't really nice and passed as I was chatting with him about what was needed, he seemed impressed that a lot had been done so think he new I'd be sorting asap.

The fails would have been:
1)nearside headlamp aim obviously wrong, reckon it want the 2 screws loosening and tilting then retightening, will do that tonight before I drive home.

2)The windscreen washer is not working.
I fitted the new pump last night with the non filter seal it came with and it worked (with bonnet up) but now it makes noise but no squirt) took hose off the first tee and no squirt so not the nozzles, will fit a new hose once I get some.

The advisorys were:
1) brake pedal rubber wearing on corner.
Never would have spotted that myself. Ordered a pair of rubbers for a whopping £2.95 including postage.

2) The driver seatbelt slightly frayed,
I wanted to change anyway as it's a bit mouldy and tatty. Just ordered a 2nd hand passenger side 1 for £30 the cheapest driver one on eBay was £60 for used or £68 new (tpuk). The new one says it fits left or right so if the passenger one fits the driver side I will order a 2nd passenger one, then I'll have 2 decent condition ones for the price of 1 new one.

3) both rear arches corroded, not in prescribed area.

I said earlier I should have got the full rear arch panel haha, I may just order the full outer arch for both sides along with the wheel tub rather than cleaning up and patching, it will be much easier to get the body lines back that way.

All in all can't complain. with how it's been going I was expecting emissions to be nowhere near and some welding needing doing somewhere so I'm pleased with myself now. Just taxed it now too so all back up to date and no rush to finish making it look better now



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[Chug]

Good to hear all your hard work has paid off, it's a nice feeling isn't it.