POR15 vs other types of paint (Hammerite)

[Southerner]

I've painted a large part of my chasis and floor in Hammerite and still have a load more to do (still got to chisle off all the underseal, man that's a killer, have to get the fuel tank out etc) but I've now come across this other stuff that fella's on a classic mini forum (current daily drive) are using, POR15. What's all this business about pores in "normal" paint? I know Hammerite is a bitch for chipping off so I'm wondering if this is better spent money? Anyone else heard of this, used this stuff?

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProducts ... andCode=Z7

Andy.

[1958 harry]

Hi,

Have a look at this thread, this guys going on about an Epoxy Mastic, looks like it should last a lot better than POR 15/Hammerite: http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=529739

I think you'd still need to paint it first then apply that mastic, its something I might do to my '58 Beetle if it ever needs restoring.

I have POR15'd the inside of my Floor pans on my bug and its OK, but it does chip off very easily, probably not the best stuff to paint on the underside where its likely to get chipped etc Theres a lot of info about POR 15 on the VW website above, do a search for it

[cartooner]

I have used and still use Hammerite a lot. Altough it produces a satisfying result for say 5 years when applied properly ( Thick, multiple layers), any 2K coating will easily outperform it.
For professional results always use 2 component finishes.

[baconsdozen]

Some time ago I started testing some anti rust paints and treatments.I supply tools to the fishing boats and the rigs round here in Lowestoft and went on their advice as to the best available,after all they work in the worst conditions and rusty boats sink and rusty rigs aren't going to be that safe either.
I found a zinc rich primer paint ( the heavier the tin is the better as it means the zinc is more concentrated,the commercial stuff is very thick and when opened has a very short shelf life as the solvents evaporate off leaving the paint almost solid) protected by thick coats of paint best and for box sections etc a flushing oil (usually with added rust 'treaters' ) that spreads then settles to provide a non sticky coating is best.Sticky coatings attract dust and any moisture then 'wicks' down to the metal below and starts corrosion.
I think you also get what you pay for,some of the industrial stuff thats also supplied to the services and oil industries is incredibly expensive.Even the very best though,admit they can only slow corrosion and rust down,they can't stop it for good.

[Southerner]

Thanks guys, now that I'm more than half way through I think I'll stick with 2 coats of Hammerite, Waxoyl the box sections and use the mastic for the wheel arches (was going to use underseal but sounds like the epoxy stuff is better). All interesting info though, I never primed anything and if ever do this again/ re-do it in how ever many years down the line I'll try and find out some of the heavy duty zinc primer. Cheers, Andy

[slough]

hammerite paint has been reformulated several times since ici purchased the brand in 2002 , with both ici and hammerite now owned by akzo nobel ( crwon paints ) it has no doubt been reformulated . Luckily though waxoyl was not purchased by ici so is still independent and will be the same as it always was

[madmark]

i have found the new hammerite is crap ,the older paint was very good ,this new stuff needs 2 coats all the time!
when i painted my engine parts i used the hammerite smooth spray it would even dry
they have to mess with eveything!