V8 power

[214si]

anyone got any pics on how much clearance u will have in a mk2 with a rover v8.

from what ive read, the viscous unit sits too far forward thus creating problems with the rad, would be interested in seeing some pics if there is any

[doggypaddle]

you can cut loads off a rover V8 waterpump, to fit one in a series landrover you need to cut off the long threaded stud that holds the viscous on. i guess 2-3" , if you can get a P5 or P6 engine rather than a rangerover one, the waterpump is much shorter than a rangerover one. or you can buy a new one (part no gwp310.) you need the pulleys to go with it too. try rimmer bros or rpi,
this doesnt answer your question directly, but at least you know if clearence is an issue with a rangerover v8 there are two ways around it. 1 cut down RR waterpump extension, 2 fit P6 pump

[214si]

cheers for that dude

also does anyone know if there is an adapter to join the v8 to a type 9 box?

[Sundowner]

turf the crank driven and run a davies graig EWP


http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47

[doggypaddle]

Not sure a type 9 box would be the best thing to use maybe someone else will know . i dont think it would live long driven enthusiastically with a V8.
you could use an LT77 or later r380 from a sherpa or landrover or even a rover sd1.
there are V8 bellhousings reasonably easy to get hold of for these gearboxes or you can use a landrover bellhousing 4 speed and a landrover to v8 adapter plate which should be readily available.
best bet is a V8 sherpa box right bellhousing 5 speed and right tailshaft. you just need to fabricate the crossmember and cut a hole for the gearstick!
again RPI or Ashcroft transmissions will tell you exactly which bellhousing and first-motion shaft fits which box.
forgot to add the p6 waterpump needs the timing case to match, which is different to rangerover type, they are readily available though as its the oil pump too!

[214si]

vehicle will not be driven hard, itll just help to pull the weight and a nice smooth engine, i want to keep the type 9 as i dont want to go butchering my floor. and i can keep standard prop etc.

i would ideally like to use the type 9, ive found some info on the net and it has been done using capri's and stuff i think i may have to give magnum engineering a call

[doggypaddle]

its entirely up to you of course, but my experience of engine transplants it even driven sensibly gearboxes tend to fail prematurely when larger engines are used. sods law dictates thet something terminal happens like the mainshaft snapping at the most inopportune moment, like halfway into a roundabout.
and to be honest my experience of type 9 boxes has been that the dont need any encouragement to break when in a heavy vehicle(even with a lame DI), they are OK in cars cos they are light, but in a transit you will find yourself at full throttle in 5th gear on hill using the 200lbs ft the v8 has and i dont think it will like it! Give it a go though, buying an adaptor plate will probably be a more expensive option than using the box designed for the engine, and not so strong but if your more comfortable with it try it, you have nothing to lose, it can always be reversed, or the gearbox changed at a later date, and it will be a quicker conversion.

[madmark]

i trid to put a type 9 on a rover ,it was crap! the bellhoseing cost me a fortune to have made (no i dont have it now) i went on useing the 4 speed transit F type box but went thorugh 3 clutches ,(allways juddering) so i fitted the bw65 autobox and it was sweet as a nut for 3years plus!

[doggypaddle]

that about sums up my experience with adaptor plates, theyre mostly crap! the isuzu to rover one in my landrover is OK but that home made and machined to a good tolerance. some of the off the shelf ones i have come across are apalling. one i had for a DI to a rangerover box we skimmed, had to take 2mm off to get it straight, it was shaped like a wedge of cheese
this is why i suggested the LT77/R380 route. at least with the exception of the prop and mounting brackets you can use all off the shelf OEM parts. when it breaks theres a lot to be said for that. when the clutch in the landrover goes i need to use half landrove and half isuzu clutch, which means buying 2 clutches. very dear!

[madmark]

auto is the way to go!

[214si]

only problem i dont like with going auto, or with one of these boxes is the repositioning of the gearlever, i dont want a gear lever that comes out between my seat, so forth and so on.

what about using an mt75 box, internet reviews seem to say they are pretty bullet proof and can be got under a low floor, but just a pain in the chuffer if you have to change clutch etc.

[madmark]

if you get the corect mk3 to mk5 auto shift you dont need to cut the floor!
i have done 3 v8 conversions and all were exelent!

[214si]

then u need to pipe up a bit the marcus!

how is the transit auto lever operated? mechanism or cable?

what gearbox etc did u use? and did u encounter clearance problems?

[madmark]

mate i used the transit auto gearstic these are cable opprated!
you are fitting a v8 into a mk2 its a easy ish job there is loads of room! as such!
you will need a perfect rover and auto box i usedthe 3.5 sd1 engines!
you will have to make mounts and also prop with have to be made!
i orginaly converted this van to v8 a few years ago now tho! that is not the engine i fitted!
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=j1HJIWSgNEc

[214si]

ill probley be using a 4.2 range rover with lpg

if not a 3.9 or 3.5 will, got a company that does the props, they are the tits! and cheap

id imagine its a lot easier than when i fitted a 2.9 v6

the only part that would concern me is the gearbox mount, but id imagine nothing that cant be overcome!

would you say its a pretty simple conversion!? im not to phased by it to be honest! seems a lo easier than other conversions i did, i take it u wired up the v8 hotwire system?