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Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

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Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby davev6newman » Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:26 pm

Ive got quite a bit of up and down movement on one of my kingpins (nearside) This was an Mot failure along with front flexy hoses. Ive greased them up but still concerened about the movement if i cant sweet talk the mot man in giving it a pass.

So.... if its just up and down movement , is there any shortcuts to take up the play without removing the pin and all the hassle that goes with removing the axle and finding a garage to do it.
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby Neil » Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:46 pm

not really but you can still get kingpins
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby DodgeRover » Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:05 pm

Theres a way to bodge it for the MOT but it won't last much longer and will just cause more damage in the long term + it'll really be a pain in the rse when it comes to doing them properly. If you really want to know PM me
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby baconsdozen » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:15 am

If there is only a little play in the swivels bearing it can be taken up but once they've started to go they soon go completely.
I've found it easier to take off the axle and drift the pins and collets out with a ruddy big hammer on an even bigger steel block. A source of heat also helps.
Sometimes they come up easliy and another time they can be a nightmare.
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby mb4ever » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:55 am

davev6newman wrote:Ive got quite a bit of up and down movement on one of my kingpins (nearside) This was an Mot failure along with front flexy hoses. Ive greased them up but still concerened about the movement if i cant sweet talk the mot man in giving it a pass.

So.... if its just up and down movement , is there any shortcuts to take up the play without removing the pin and all the hassle that goes with removing the axle and finding a garage to do it.

:)

The only short cut I use is to take the axle to a machine shop, (or somewhere that works on agricultural equiptment), and get them to push the pin out with a press.
You'll probably need to get them to hone the new bushes for you too.

As I understand it, heating an axle is not a good idea. :(
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby Neil » Mon Jul 08, 2013 5:14 pm

ye best not heat it it might melt in front of you :lol:
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby davev6newman » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:46 pm

Just assuming i could get kingpin out, surely fitting extra shims would take up the play?
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby Luke » Mon Jul 08, 2013 11:08 pm

yeah ive fitted shims before i made some with tabs on so you can knock them in without removing the kingpin - just make sure you fit them on the non load side - if its just the lift the shim is ok it will take out the lift but if its wear on the pin its self or bush then it wont last 2 mins :D
if the kingpin is fine and comes out ok fitting new shims is all thats needed :D
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby bortaf » Mon Jul 08, 2013 11:20 pm

Is it a secret then?
i just get a shim, cut a slot out of it the same diam as the pin and tap in in on the non load side of the (usually lower) bearing pack, needs to be tight or it'll drop/walk it's way out.
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby bambi mk 1 » Mon Jul 08, 2013 11:28 pm

Its the thrust bearings that wear and cause the lift in the king pin.Replacing the bearings will make the steering lighter.Use a press as hammering the pin if its tight may mushroom the pin and you will end up with problems trying to get it down through the axle.
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby mb4ever » Tue Jul 09, 2013 7:58 am

davev6newman wrote:Just assuming i could get kingpin out, surely fitting extra shims would take up the play?

:)

Yes, you could simply ft new shims.

However, unless you want to do the job again next year, it would be rather pointless as it's the bearings that are knackered.

If the pins fit the bushes, you could probably get away with simply fitting new bearings, and then re-shimming, and greasing.
Best to grease with the wheels off the ground, and then with the wheels on the ground.
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby baconsdozen » Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:17 am

If the wear in the thrust bearing is slight,
take off the wheel and remove the top bearing cap.Clean all the grease out.Take out the grease nipple and fit a bolt in the threaded hole a couple of turns.Refit the top cap and gently tighten the bolt untill it touches the pin. Measure the height of the bolt.Jack up or lift the hub assembly and turn the bolt untill it touches the pin again.measure the height of the bolt,the difference between the two measure ments if the amount of shim needed to go under (inside the top cap) less a few thou. When assembled there should be very slight degree of lift left,don't cram it up tight or it will try and undo the cap.
Use a heavy punch as close to the size of the pin as you can get (and keep it square)
I used a copper disc on mine to take up a slightly worn bearing a few MOTs ago and its still fine.
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby mb4ever » Tue Jul 09, 2013 10:55 am

baconsdozen wrote:If the wear in the thrust bearing is slight,
take off the wheel and remove the top bearing cap.Clean all the grease out.Take out the grease nipple and fit a bolt in the threaded hole a couple of turns.Refit the top cap and gently tighten the bolt untill it touches the pin. Measure the height of the bolt.Jack up or lift the hub assembly and turn the bolt untill it touches the pin again.measure the height of the bolt,the difference between the two measure ments if the amount of shim needed to go under (inside the top cap) less a few thou. When assembled there should be very slight degree of lift left,don't cram it up tight or it will try and undo the cap.
Use a heavy punch as close to the size of the pin as you can get (and keep it square)
I used a copper disc on mine to take up a slightly worn bearing a few MOTs ago and its still fine.

:)

That's an exceedingly clever trick, thank you very much. :D
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby davev6newman » Tue Jul 09, 2013 12:46 pm

baconsdozen wrote:If the wear in the thrust bearing is slight,
take off the wheel and remove the top bearing cap.Clean all the grease out.Take out the grease nipple and fit a bolt in the threaded hole a couple of turns.Refit the top cap and gently tighten the bolt untill it touches the pin. Measure the height of the bolt.Jack up or lift the hub assembly and turn the bolt untill it touches the pin again.measure the height of the bolt,the difference between the two measure ments if the amount of shim needed to go under (inside the top cap) less a few thou. When assembled there should be very slight degree of lift left,don't cram it up tight or it will try and undo the cap.
Use a heavy punch as close to the size of the pin as you can get (and keep it square)
I used a copper disc on mine to take up a slightly worn bearing a few MOTs ago and its still fine.


Lets get this right as im a little confused. Take top grease cap off etc and replace with a bolt. Take measurement of the bolt off load and under load to get the thickness of the shim (less a few thou).
But as i read it i think you say place the shim under the top grease cap?
How would this take up the play? And what do you mean by punching the pin ?
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Re: Mk2 Kingpins. Any short cuts?

Postby baconsdozen » Wed Jul 10, 2013 9:03 am

By placing a shim under the top cap it stops the assembly dropping down and takes up some of the movement present because of wear in the thrust bearing.If the wear is slight and the thrust bearing is still serviceable it is still a bodge but a workable one.
To drive out the king pin from the axle (where it often seizes on) you need a drift that is flat and almost the same size as the king pin or the end will spread making it impossible to shift. Ideally you need a large press,but using a really substantial block,a heavy hammer and large drift they can be got out,heating the axle end (within reason) will help.Use the block directly under where you are hammering so you are supporting the assembly and not trying to bend anything.
If you do use heat,a drop of water put on a component that forms a ball that runs about rapidly on the surface as it evaporates shows the metal is hot enough to expand about as much as it will and avoids damage by overheating it.
I've got one of these to do in a week or so,I'll try and remember to take some pics.
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