Moderator: Luke
dumper wrote:What I’ve done when changing a diff seal if their no play in the bearings is on the end of the pinion threads put a pop mark on it and a pop mark on the nut and also on the flange all in a line so the flange goes back on the same splines it came off and then as you undo the nut count the turns then when you put it all back together count the turns and line up the pop marks that way you have the same pre load on the bearings in the past if I’ve had play in the bearings I have I have just nipped them up a bit more to take up the play and not had any problems afterwards.
To set the pre load up correctly you have to remove the crown wheel and diff unit and set the pre load to a set turning force in the ford manual it says you do it without the seal in and then when you have it set right you remove the flange fit the seal and refit the flange and tighten it back to the same position that you set the pre load at that’s why I use the pop marks to get it back in the correct setting also if when you are setting the preload and over tighten it you need to start again with a new collapsible sleeve
ventadorn wrote:dumper wrote:What I’ve done when changing a diff seal if their no play in the bearings is on the end of the pinion threads put a pop mark on it and a pop mark on the nut and also on the flange all in a line so the flange goes back on the same splines it came off and then as you undo the nut count the turns then when you put it all back together count the turns and line up the pop marks that way you have the same pre load on the bearings in the past if I’ve had play in the bearings I have I have just nipped them up a bit more to take up the play and not had any problems afterwards.
To set the pre load up correctly you have to remove the crown wheel and diff unit and set the pre load to a set turning force in the ford manual it says you do it without the seal in and then when you have it set right you remove the flange fit the seal and refit the flange and tighten it back to the same position that you set the pre load at that’s why I use the pop marks to get it back in the correct setting also if when you are setting the preload and over tighten it you need to start again with a new collapsible sleeve
Many thanks for that, so I can get away without a new crush spacer as long as I mark the whole lot up accurately and count the turns. Yes I read up the bit about setting up pre-load from scratch in the manual but it's not really a diy jobbie
bambi mk 1 wrote:When you pop the old seal out put it on the flange and then put the new one on the correct way round push the flange back on the pinion and tighten the nut up ,remove the flange again and the old seal and refit the flange
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