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Changing rear brake cylinders

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Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Sun Jul 26, 2020 6:08 pm

Dear all. I’m trying to replace brake cylinders on the rear of my 77 Mk1 camper.
How to I get this off (see photo) it’s some kind of huge locknut.
????
Cheers
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby DougT » Mon Jul 27, 2020 9:36 am

I think you will find that it is either the end of the half shaft or a cover over the end of the half shaft. If I am right then there should be 5 nuts behind the hub which hold the half shaft onto the hub. Remove those and the half shaft should pull out.

As an alternative, you may be able to remove the brake cylinder by removing the bolts that hold the backplate onto the axle. This may give you enough room to angle the back plate and get the cylinder past the hub.

Hope this is of some help.

Doug
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Mon Jul 27, 2020 1:53 pm

Hi Doug- Many thanks for your input. Mr Haynes and Legg say what I think is similar. Please take a look at the pics- is that the same as you were saying?
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby DougT » Mon Jul 27, 2020 2:56 pm

Yes they are saying the same thing. But they don't make it clear that the nuts are on the back of the hub.

In the drawing at the top where the hub has been removed, you can see the hub retaining thread at the end of the axle tube. The hub itself with the bearing is mounted on the axle tube and held in place with the bearing locknut which screws onto this thread. The shaft, which is like a long stemmed mushroom, is then inserted into the tube so that the head the covers the locknut and seals against the hub. The head is attached to the hub either by studs on the axle head or bolts. in both cases the nuts are on the back of the hub. There should be a seal between the head and the hub as the oil from the diff travels down the axle tube and lubricates the hub bearing. So it is best to only jack up one side at a time to keep the axle on a slant and stop the oil from running out. But even if you are doing one side at a time, I would still mark the axle half shafts as left and right because they need to be kept to the original side and not swapped over. If you swap them over they can snap if they have been worked hard already.

Which workshop manual is that as it is refering to LCY and LCX models ?

Doug
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby dumper » Mon Jul 27, 2020 3:45 pm

Hit the half shaft in the middle with a lump hammer do not hit the studs and it will pop out pull it out of the axle have a tin underneath the axle to catch the oil the nut holding the hub on will ether have a one use nut or two lock nuts with a lock tab bend it open to get the first nut off remove the lock tap and undo the inner nut pull off the hub .
If the lock tab has not been off to many times it may be reusable as there are multiple tabs on it.
When I do drum brakes I mark the drum to the half shaft and the half shaft to the hub if put back in a different position it can cause brake judder .
One other tip to get the hob off the axle if it’s stuck on put the half shaft on to the hub the wrong way round with 3 nuts and pull and wobble the shaft at the same time to pull it off .
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Mon Jul 27, 2020 4:01 pm

Thanks again Doug. I’m no mechanic, just cant get anyone decent to do it in East London so going for it myself. I’d much prefer not to take out the half shafts. I’ll order the cylinders and pads and see if I can get them swapped out without removing shafts 1st.
By the way do you know what specific parts I’m ordering. I found these (see pic). They say Mk2 and I’m Mk1 but are the only ones that look the same. Company can’t help.
Really appreciated.
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Mon Jul 27, 2020 4:08 pm

Dumper- cheers. Same story from another perspective & more tips. Gives me confidence to get it done.
Thx
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Mon Jul 27, 2020 4:10 pm

Original cylinder
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby DougT » Mon Jul 27, 2020 5:48 pm

Can't really tell from any photos as the critical issue is the bore diameter. So you need to get one out and measure the bore diameter as accurately as you can.

I use a company called "brakeparts.co.uk" who list the parts even if they do not have them. So it is a good source of reference to find out what the options are. For a 77 Mk1 they list the rear cylinders as 19mm bore but trawling around there are earlier versions at 20.3mm and 16mm. Their photos are pretty good and generally are of the part rather than a similar item. Be a bit careful as the tendancy in those days was to fit what was on the shelf even if it wasn't the specified part !! And as they were starting to change to the Mk2 I would check the options from the early Mk2 list as well.

Doug
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby dumper » Mon Jul 27, 2020 5:56 pm

From you photo the linings look good if you get a screw driver on each shoe and adjust the lining out you will be able to get the cylinder out without removing anything else when you have fitted the new cylinder de adjust the shoes back on to the cylinder then grind any lip off the drum the you can re adjust the shoes to just rubbing and then with the drum on bleed the brakes after they have been bled and settled back you may be able to finally adjust them .
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
dumper
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby dumper » Mon Jul 27, 2020 6:04 pm

DougT wrote:Can't really tell from any photos as the critical issue is the bore diameter. So you need to get one out and measure the bore diameter as accurately as you can.

I use a company called "brakeparts.co.uk" who list the parts even if they do not have them. So it is a good source of reference to find out what the options are. For a 77 Mk1 they list the rear cylinders as 19mm bore but trawling around there are earlier versions at 20.3mm and 16mm. Their photos are pretty good and generally are of the part rather than a similar item. Be a bit careful as the tendancy in those days was to fit what was on the shelf even if it wasn't the specified part !! And as they were starting to change to the Mk2 I would check the options from the early Mk2 list as well.

Doug

Dougs not wrong on they fitted anything back then it was a minefield the dowel in the face of the cylinder was in different positions to stop you fitted the wrong cylinder to the backplate we always used to remove the cylinder and take it to the parts department as a pattern to get the right one it was the same for propshafts and exhausts you just never know what they fitted even from the vin number.
MK 8 L4 H3 Motorsport campervan
Past camper vans
1974 mk1 v4 with 2.0 pinto fitted
1986 mk3 2.5 di swb
1990 190 lwb 2.5 di
1998 100 lwb 2.5 di
2006 350 jumbo 135 tdci
dumper
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Posts: 3874
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Location: Lincolnshire

Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Mon Jul 27, 2020 9:45 pm

Great insight Doug/ Dumper. Wheels back on now. So I’ll check the Core dims over the weekend order cylinders and plan a clear morning for it. Really helpful advice- will feedback. Can’t private message yet though.....
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Chug » Wed Jul 29, 2020 5:23 pm

Just remove the top brake shoe spring and then you can get the cylinders out with a bit of levering the shoes away at the top from each side of the cylinder.
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Ralph.9 » Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:04 am

I have the cylinders in stock, what year & model is the van?
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Re: Changing rear brake cylinders

Postby Fred- Mk1 camper » Thu Jul 30, 2020 3:23 pm

Hi Chuggy- thanks I’ll go carefully and try and lever them out when I get the replacements.
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