Feuerwehr imported from Norway

[skerr3]

Hello, Although I joined this Transit forum three years ago I've only now finally purchased a vehicle so this is my first proper post. I'm certainly not new to the old car scene as I was the spare secretary for the MK1 Cortina O.C. for 24 years(no I don't want another job before anyone asks!), I'm just new to MK1 Transits.
The van I've purchased is another ex-German fire wagon which had moved on to Lithuania and finally Norway which is where I purchased it from. It arrived at Immingham docks on Monday & I collected it yesterday, my Kuga did a sterling job in towing along with a hefty 18ft trailer too.
I'm afraid I immediately have questions that I need to ask. The tailgate handle was blanked with no lock barrel being fitted, I do have an A5 sized Ford parts book but it doesn't have enough detail. Could somebody tell me if the lock barrel is the same as fitted to door handles as I need to source one?
Second question, is there a source for replacement rubber seals for the side doors with sliding windows, mine are shot and have been bodged to stop them leaking?

I'm planning on converting immediately to right hand drive and install a MK5 Transit IFS which will also give me disc brakes, I've already sourced a 6-stud axle. I will also be converting from manual to auto, not sure yet what route I will be taking. I would be happy short term to simply fit an auto box onto the V4 if I could find a complete gearbox, torque converter & flex plate? I have got a Cosworth BOB in the garage which was the original intention but I do quite like the flat panel look so may be looking at alternative ideas.
Steve

[MinorMatt]

Im guessing the trailer was a bit heavier than the kuga is rated for?

I can't help with the other bits as such, but you know an IFS conversion is rather involved? You will also need to use mk4/5 wheels too

[skerr3]

Yes I'm conversant with the conversion, I'm been doing my research. I'm also planning on a MK7 rear axle to give disc brake all round and then 16" wheels, I like the sleeper look, it won't be outlandish.

[conrod]

Nice looking van! Out of curiosity, is your Kuga the petrol or diesel? I have 2018 diesel, and it is rated to tow 2000kgs.

I am fitting a Mk7 axle to the rear of my Mk2 LWB. but I think I will have to get it narrowed. It is about 50mm wider per side from memory. And same, I will be fitting 16" wheels, I have the axle and wheels already.

Find Ralph Clark either on here or on FB, he is your best bet for parts. I think the lock barrel is the same as the door ones, but not 100% sure on that.

[Luke]

my firevan has the no locking rear door handle too - i'd be interested if you find a solution

as for keeping the flat front i fitted a 1.9TDi into mine but if you want more power a zetec will fit
can't see the BOA going in with the flat front unfortunately

[skerr3]

The Kuga is rated at 2100kg, it will have been over the limit I'm sure, I know this as I've spent an hour or so this evening removing pseudo sauna barrel fronted wood panelling from the sides & roof of the van that must have weighed in at 150kg's!

I'm aware that I would need to convert to the bullnose front for the BOB engine, I have sourced one and the bumper closing panels, I'm just looking to see if there is a way to get a decent semi-modern engine in with the flat front now that I have it, as I rather like it as it is.

Luke, have you a link to any info on the 1.9TDCI installation, I'm assuming its VW ?
Thanks

[conrod]

I haven't towed with my Kuga yet, and yes you are correct, it is also 2100 kgs!

Flat front looks good (although I do like the bullnose fronts as well!) I have a 302 Cleveland in my 1972 flat front van, but that took a lot of cutting of the bulkhead to get that in, and you want something modern anyway. (and probably not as thirsty!) I think the early pre 70 vans had a smaller recess in the bulkhead, so that might make it very difficult.

Some inspiration if you feel the need to keep the flat front and cut the floor out

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=197441&c=1

IMG_4426.JPG

IMG_4424.JPG

[Luke]

Luke, have you a link to any info on the 1.9TDCI installation, I'm assuming its VW ?
Thanks

here mate viewtopic.php?f=13&t=150246&c=1

[skerr3]

Hi, this is a quick progress report on the MK1 I imported from Norway.
Instead of modifying the body brackets to fit to the MK5 subframe I chose to modify the subframe to fit into the original front leaf spring mounting point. I made up a simple plywood template to hold the 19mm I.D. tube the required 43mm to ensure the front wheel centre-line aligned to the wheelarch. It is a relatively simple mod to make and was therefore quick & expedient. I've fabricated the two sections to weld to the front chassis legs and I'm hoping to weld these into place by the end of the weekend.
In the meantime I've also modified the dashboard to take the speedo pod from the left to the right hand side as part of the RHD conversion, I've also lengthened the wiring harness to throw all of the connections over to the right too, all properly crimped and soldered connections to prevent future issues.
I'm re-drilling to the body to fit the wiper blades from left to right too, at the same time my thoughts turned to improving the wipers & so I purchased a MK3 Transit motor which would give me a faster speed wipe, using a rotary file I tapered bored the MK1 wiper crank to enlarge the hole so that it would fit directly to the MK3 motor spindle, all very simple, just need to work out the wiring now.
I did mention that the tailgate handle didn't have a lock barrel, I've found this VW type 2 handle that looks quite similar to the MK1 Transit, I haven't purchased one yet, I was wondering if anyone had looked at it previously?https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1963-VW-S ... 2328312270

[DougT]

The tailgates that I have seen have all had push button handles.

However the parts list does show a twist handle as well but with the same catch mechanism. So I think you will have to manufacture something like a cam mechanism to fit on the end and which pushes on the correct part of the mechanism.

Doug

[MinorMatt]

Nice idea to modify the subframe

[skerr3]

Hello, this is a further progress update on the van I imported a couple of weeks ago. I’m happy to report that I’ve made quicker progress than anticipated & the chassis mounting points required to secure the MK5 front subframe have been welded into position.
I turned my attention to the second change to the way that others have gone about their installation, notable connecting the steering rack to the column. Due to the pinion of the steering rack pointing forwards, essentially leaving you no alternative but to connect through a complicated arc using a number of UJ’s and connections. My solution was to rotate the rack along its axis so that the pinion became more upright.
Once I’d started I was committed to the change as the first task was to remove the lower spot welded flange from the subframe itself & then seam weld it, I then removed the upper rack mounting plates from the subframe too.
I used the wishbone bolts as a guide to aid rack alignment & to gauge how level the rack was & a Vernier caliper to measure the distance between the rack bar & the subframe face.
I’ve fabricated new mounting brackets to hold the rack onto the subframe, 3mm steel to start with, this was easy to bend & manipulate, however once I was happy with the position I then added a second layer of 5mm steel to the lower brackets, both were then seam welded together. The reason for this is simple, its safety. A steering rack has to react around 30kN of force & you can’t risk the rack mounts moving and fracturing.
With the rack in a more upright position you now have the opportunity to either run the lower column & UJ outside the bulkhead in the engine bay & put a hole in the bulkhead further up or, my option which is to punch a hole in the bottom of the floor and run inside the cab vertical & parallel to the inside of the bulkhead. This route means that you have a much gentler route between pinion and steering column.
I do have a question. I’m using the lower column which has a triangular end. Is the UJ that connects to this triangular end part of the MK3/4/5 upper steering column or is it available separately?
Steve

[conrod]

Hi Steve,

unfortunately the clamp that attaches to the triangular end is part of U/J which is also welded to the end of the Mk3/4/5 steering shaft/column.
I like your idea of rotating the steering rack, that original setup looks quite torturous for the U/J! On my 2018 Transit Custom the steering rack is more upright, like you have mounted yours, and the hole goes through the floor. Have you investigated using a Mk6/7 steering column? These do not have the triangular U/J setup on them. On my Mk2, I fitted a Mk3 PS box, and used a Mk5 steering shaft, which I fitted inside the mk2 column, so I could keep the standard switches etc. I had to shorten the triangular shaft about 70mm, by milling the flats further up the coupling, and then cutting the end off. Perhaps this would work for yours? Another possibility, if you are brave, it to disassemble the lower U/J on the steering column, and fit a normal type, and stake the yoke back over the needle bearings.

Conrad

see here:


viewtopic.php?f=3&t=164212&hilit=supervan&start=45#p1541138

[skerr3]

I had a felling looking at the workshop manual that the UJ would be integral to the bottom of the column, not to worry as I think I'm probably going to fit a UJ just below the floor before it enters the cab so that I have a completely vertical run once it is through the floor grommet, therefore the triangular end will be chopped off.

[skerr3]

Hi, if this is of interest, I purchased some new FORD letters from a guy in Germany, he laser blanks them from stainless steel, you then have the option to finish them yourself or have them powder coated any colour of your choosing. The quality is excellent, circa €80 for the set, you pay extra for powder coating.