vegger smiley transit will not stop

[mustnt-grumble]

My old 1997 transit was unable to stop its engine tonight.
I twintanked it in 2019 and have been running with WVO since then, starting & stopping on road diesel. its been fine really ever since.

I started it just now and warmed it up then when I went to stop it, the engine carried on running. Running rough, and with lower revs, but still running. Can stop it easily enough by stalling of course but it's a concern.

what has happened? has the gum finally got into the stopper solenoid within the pump? seems odd for that bit to have failed before the business part of the pump or injectors etc.

might be nothing but I thought that I had also noticed that the idle speed in the last few months has been higher than it should be
help!

[Keef]

The cooking oil may have caused ring gumming letting one of your oils through to the other?
Check your oil level,
If it's dropped it may be partially running on engine oil,
If it's rising you may have cooking oil in the engine oil which if left will polymerise and turn your oil solid.

[bortaf]

I've had the stop valve gum up a few times, mainly on the 1.8 but also occasionly on a Di, mind you they were not tanked just ran on NVO and diesel mix ?

[dumper]

Check the stop valve for bits of metal it maybe the pump is braking up inside and jamming it up

[mustnt-grumble]

well.. she stopped for good about a week after. think the pump must be failed: Fuel oil flows out the injector pipes when I crank, but when I start to do up the high-pressure unions the oil is not just standing/jetting out from them like it should do (when cranking). similar behaviour to a mk6 that I destroyed by running on crappy biodiesel about 10 years ago.

I have another very similar, hopefully identical pump on a wrecked van which I am going to try to replace.
the wrecker is the familiar "hand of bananas" manifold engine, wheras my running van does not have the "hand of bananas" although I believe they are essentially the same engine (??)

I have the haynes manual and whilst I am fairly competent I have never done a pump/timing belt job before. what are the pitfalls?
will an identical pump "just work" or is there some business with the key/ immobiliser / stopper valve function to take care of?

[MinorMatt]

it should just work - but depends on the age of the pump whether there is an immobiliser or not.

Behind the rear cover (yes you have to remove it) on a post 1996 van is a RIM module (a black box about 30x30x30mm which clamps around the stop solenoid.

If your new pump has this, and the old one doesn't - remove it.
If your old pump has one - swap it to the new pump.

[Chug]

Have you actually checked the stop solenoid?

[mustnt-grumble]

Have you actually checked the stop solenoid?

very good point. I haven't actually.
anyway I am at the crux now, with the suspect pump off the van and the replacement one ready to go in. so I will check the suspect unit shortly for the solenoid clunking.

what I have noticed is that on the suspect pump, the drive pulley is *very* free to rotate. as if the shaft is broken. I don't think problem is only the stop solenoid because there was fuel flowing out the injector pipes, just without any operational pressure.

both pumps appear to be identical, with the black plastic Bosch "immobiliser" assembly around the solenoid.

Isn't there some other kink with matching pumps to injectors ?? I seem to recall some colour-coding splodges when I had injector issues years ago on a previous smiley

[Chug]

If it's free to turn then something has broken inside the pump, it should be hard to turn until it reaches the top of each cam lobe (4 of them) then turn quickly after.

If the pump is the same with the box over the solenoid then it should be fine with your injectors.

[mustnt-grumble]

replacement pump on, engine running fine. havent tried driving yet though. is there a guide anywhere for dismantling one of these injector pumps? (now that I have positively identified that as the failure I am very interested to see what it looks like)
there was that much chronic crud on the banjo unions of the inlet & outlet that I am amazed the pump has only given up now. clearly from running WVO. and thats after 5 microns filter. Looked like rust but scraped off like organic munge.

[bortaf]

It's not so much the particles in used cooking oil it's the soaps that need removing chemicly that gum up the pumps, just filtering WVO is TBH a waist of time to a certain extent. you need to thin it by removing the glycerol

[Chug]

replacement pump on, engine running fine. havent tried driving yet though. is there a guide anywhere for dismantling one of these injector pumps? (now that I have positively identified that as the failure I am very interested to see what it looks like)
there was that much chronic crud on the banjo unions of the inlet & outlet that I am amazed the pump has only given up now. clearly from running WVO. and thats after 5 microns filter. Looked like rust but scraped off like organic munge.

There's a strip down video here for the VE pump https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_01gEg2ZMwg