Epic to Bosch 460 Fuel Pump Conversion

[redline930@gmail.com]

My year 2000 MkV 2.5TD 5 SP manual Box Camper Van here in Sunny NZ finally gave up the ghost , going into limp mode throwing errors etc, and finally not running.
So bit the bullet a few weeks back and ordered a refurbed Bosch VE 460 series pump from Merlin Diesel Systems in UK. Looks like new !!

Few Issues though :
1/ The new pump doesn't have a rear support bracket, and am worried about hanging it all of the front plate. The Epic support bracket wont work with this pump. Not sure where to get a bracket that works with this pump other than maybe getting one custom made? May test run for a few mins with no rear bracket.
2/Have quickly mounted the new pump. To test it works ok. ITs a B'std getting the 12v Solenoid wire on when its mounted. Why didn't I put this on when it was on the bench.!! Already dropped the nut down the back of the motor.
3/ Timing wise it was all pinned up, and the refurbed pump was pinned TDC?, So have gone with this, and will adjust it roughly using the front bolts. Am planning on trying to start it up, but with no Radiator or coolant in . eg only the cam belt. Should be ok as long as its not more than a minute or so of running?
4/Plumbing Wise I've found a few pics on here and have done something similar. Cut of plastic hard pipes and routed , but not sure if have them the right way round? I guess If I pull of the pipe to the filter and crank I can figure out which is the flow and which is the return line to the filter. Does the fuel supply line go to port nearest to the pulley (front of engine)
5/ Any tips on getting all of the air out of a new pump and lines with no fuel in them. Other than just keep cranking the motor over.

[Chug]

You could easily make a support bracket or ask a local metal fab shop, its just a 90 degree bended thick steel plate with holes engine side and pump side.

Haven't you got a spade terminal on the top of the solenoid? if not fit one under the 8mm nut when you find it.

I've run without coolant for testing many times and you'll be fine for 5 mins easily.

Yes fuel supply to front port of the pump. Fuel return connection from the rear.

Just out of view in your pic hidden under the end of the throttle lever and part of the top case is a 14mm bleed nipple. either get a hand primer bulb or a small electric fuel pump and use that to prime the pump, first from the bleed nipple then the return then the injectors. Run for a minute to make sure all is fine then disconnect priming pump and restore to original and start again to make sure.

[redline930@gmail.com]

Thanks for the heads up

After lots of cranking to pull Fuel thru, it fired up, so am stoked that the money spent on that pump hasn't been a waste of time. Happy days!!

1/Wondered if there was an off the shelf bracket. If not I'll see if I can adapt the old Epic bracket to fit with a bit of welding.
2/ Dunno what size the little nut on the solenoid is, and its pretty hard to get to. The nut is M8 but not sure what thread size it is.
3/ Going to replace the main front crank seal and the oil pump gasket as there is a reasonable oil leak from there.
4/ Plan on a new water pump/Cam belt etc whilst its all easily accessed.
5/ For timing fine adjustment I'm going to cut a hole in the cam cover, ( and source a rubber bung) so I can make fine tuning adjustments to the pump timing when its all re-assembled.
6/ Last but not least will have to source a accelerator Pedal and a Throttle cable from somewhere. Any ideas on that?

Would not have done this Job without all of the info on this forum, its great, and allows to keep these old vans on the road!

[redline930@gmail.com]

All up and running nicely now. But had a few challenges after getting it all back together.

1) Timing needed to be altered as there was always a lot of smoke on start-up. Kept fiddling with this until I found a spot on the pump bolts (nearly all the way to the left (facing from front of engine) on the slot for the pump bolts, seems the sweet spot where it starts and runs great with no smoke at all. Cutting a bigger hole to access those thru the cam cover paid off.
2) I've currently got an old throttle cable from an outboard engine lashed up via cable ties, and welded a small lug on the exiting electronic accel pedal. But will have to get something custom made to finally fix it up with, and get thru a WOF ( same as MOT) in NZ.
3) Lastly the Engine Management light is now always on, as pretty much all the engine sensors to do with the old Epic system are no longer connected. Think thats a WOF failure here. I'd guess any one who has done the conversion to a manual pump would have the same issues? Wot did u do, pull or fuse or disconnect the bulb?

cheers