After market Bosch turbo compatible pump

[Peterr]

I will need to remove the pulley chuck from the Bosch pump since the Otosan pump doesn’t have this chuck as you can see in the photo. I assume this is done with all timing pegs in at TDC and that the nut is turned counterclockwise to slacken it while the timing belt and pulley are on. Then the pump is removed in the normal fashion. Correct me if I’m wrong.

[Peterr]

Just removed pulley chuck from Bosch pump. There is a woodruff key slot on the pump central axel but no woodruff key or slot on the inside of the conical chuck. Held on by friction?

How do I tighten the Otosan central axel nut without turning the pump?

Anyone know the torque setting for the nut?

[Peterr]

Just returned from my pump specialist. He was able to give me clear instructions on mounting and starting the Otosan pump.

Apparently the pulley chuck does not use a woodruff key. It’s positioned by eye in alignment to the where the timing hole would be on the Bosch. The pump’s axel is blocked from turning using the side bolt. The bolt is removed and the spacing shim is removed. The bolt is then retightened to lock the axel.

The chuck can then be tightened. No idea at what torque setting, but the mecanic said give it a “good tightening“ clockwise.

The axel locking bolt is removed and the spacing shim is replaced and the bolt is tightened again. The spacing shim keeps the bolt clear of the axel so it’s important not to forget this step otherwise the pump will be damaged when starting the engine.

[Peterr]

Is there anyone following here?

Where can I find the torque setting for the pump chuck nut?

[cherniy_chack]

Petter, a Russian video blogger, posted a new video about disassembling this Chinese contraption.
He's shocked by the build quality.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2q8p2gTd2ro
Regarding the lack of a hole for properly setting the initial injection angle, tech support is blatantly lying!
This hole is needed every time the timing belt is replaced and whenever the pump is removed or installed. I recommend drilling it.
Incidentally, the Russian blogger's pump does have a mounting hole.

[cherniy_chack]

As for the tightening torque of the flange nut on the pump shaft, I think it could be in the range of 65...85 Nm.

[Peterr]

Thanks, was getting ready to mount the pump tomorrow. Did I make a mistake buying this Chinese pump? Couldn’t understand the Russian unfortunately no subtitles in English.

I have the newly rebuilt …146 Bosch pump but no LDA on it, just in case.

I thought about drilling a hole like you said but I can’t be sure there is enough material behind it, wouldn’t want to perforate the pump. Maybe just mark it with a punch.

My old-timer pump specialist said it wasn’t a problem because I can lock the pump’s timing position with the side bolt after removing the spacer shim, which is also on the Bosch pump.

I just don’t want to damage the pump if I use this side locking bolt to hold it in place while I tighten up the pulley flange (chuck).

[cherniy_chack]

Peter, the pump shaft lock on the side is only used to properly install the drive pulley flange.
It's assumed that the pump shaft is installed and locked at the factory so that if a locking pin of the specified diameter (I don't remember which, maybe 11 or 12 millimeters) is inserted into the recess in the pump housing and the flange is pushed onto the pump shaft so that the locking pin fits into the flange slot, then after installing the pump on the engine and the timing belt, the initial injection point will be 11 degrees before TDC in cylinder #1.
The shaft locking pin is positioned so that it's difficult to access after the pump is installed on the engine.

[Peterr]

I've been assured that the pump shaft is set correctly at TDC at the factory. As far as the pulley flange and missing timing hole on the pump, I’ve been assured by both the factory technician and my pump specialist that the timing hole isn’t necessary. But I understand what you mean by the pump shaft lock being difficult to access once the pump
Is mounted. But even with a timing hole on the pump it wouldn’t hold the shaft still. Are you suggesting that I first bolt on the flange on the shaft while the pump is on the bench with the shaft locked on the side, then replace the shim to unlock the shaft and mount the pump?

I could mount the pump, tighten the pulley flange, remove the pump to have easy access to the shaft lock, replace the shim and the continue to remount the pump and pipes etc.

[cherniy_chack]

No, I suggest first drilling a recess in the pump housing boss with a drill of the required diameter—I don't remember the diameter, and I don't have a manual handy. But it's not a problem to find out the diameter.
After drilling the boss to the required diameter, insert the locking pin into the newly drilled recess and install the toothed pulley flange onto the shaft.
Tighten the nut on the pump shaft and only then remove the locking pin from the pump shaft.

And also, we need to clarify the exact position in which the pump shaft is locked—at TDC for cylinder 1 or at the start of injection in cylinder 1, which is 11 degrees before TDC for cylinder 1. This applies only to the crankshaft.