Clutch adjustment?

[andy_v740]

i have that problem on my 95 smiley thought it was clutch so changed that and still the same, so changed cable and adjuster still the same, so tried another clutch and its still like it the only other thing left is the clutch arm and pivot might be worn.

[AndyG]

So what actually causes the biting point to be so low

Has anyone managed to fool an auto adjusting clutch to give a higher/normal height bite

[MinorMatt]

Digging up an old topic here then Andy?

I went to manual adjustment

[AndyG]

As I've got the use of my old van

I hate that clutch

Looks like I'll have to look into seeing if I can find out why then
Defo. nothing wrong with the pedal assy, so the prob. must be underneath

[AndyG]

Ok, I'd finally had enough of this clutch (no wonder I went auto ) It just doesn't travel enough to open/release the clutch plate

I had a brand new clutch fitted some years ago, along with a new ratchet mech. assy. and cable It was ok to start with but as with all these things, it was only a matter of time before the problem was back

I've tried to find out what actually controls how far back the fork goes, but no success Anybody

I couldn't see a stop for it, so I guess it "floats"

On a manual adjust cable, it would indeed be the cable that stops it travelling back too far

So it was either make my own adjuster that would stop excessive movement of the fork (a bit like what's used on the FWD BMC cars of the 60's ) or gain more travel on the cable, without cutting a hole out in the floor

So I removed the pedal all together, just to check it isn't a worn auto adjuster and no, it's perfect, with all the genuine Ford numbers on it etc....

Next thing to check was the cable, no visible problems with that

So how could I gain just that little bit of extra travel required

Increase the circumference of the ratchet mechanism

I was first thinking along the lines of screwing a slotted bolt into the mech. where the cable rolls over, that would give more "lift" on the cable as you push the pedal, but this idea was soon scrapped

So using a bit of foam filled satellite cable (half of a twin core) was just the right size to slot in where I wanted, hence increase the circumference of the mech

Refitted and BINGO
I can now actually select gears with engine on

I still can't believe how easy it was to do

(It didn't help, the fact that the so called mechanic didn't bother refitting the rear spring that holds the pedal up As where this was, it was interfering with the "resting" position of the pedal, which couldn't have helped, but we are talking a possible mm )

Here's what I'm on about








SORTED !

[MinorMatt]

Well done Andy

But wont that cable compress remarkably quickly?

[AndyG]

Well it's foam filled and the way it sits in there, it can't spread
If it proves to be a problem, I can always fit something a lot more solid Now I know where to attack the problem

[Steve B]

Jobby dun then, nice one Andy

[jetmorgan]

Does anybody have any pictures showing what the ratchet etc., look like when in situ ?
I tried to follow the various suggestions but couldn't identify the bits mentioned, except for the quadrant at the top of the assembly.
There was also a fine coil spring that came off when I was poking around.
I can see where the front hole is for it to clip into, but where does it clip onto at the other end ?

[AndyG]

The whole thing was and is a pain................

I'll try and take a piccy for you tomorrow

That spring was off when I had a look and before I touched it

The only possible way that I could get that spring on, was to lightly tie a wire to it and use the wire to pull it up to where ( at least where I thought ) it should be

[jetmorgan]

Well it's foam filled and the way it sits in there, it can't spread
If it proves to be a problem, I can always fit something a lot more solid Now I know where to attack the problem

How is the co-ax cable mod holding up ?
Is it still doing what you hoped ?
Cheers !
Brian.

[birdy]

Can you not change the pedal for the later smiley type that has the threaded bar end on the cable so you can adjust yourself easily.

[AndyG]

Well it's foam filled and the way it sits in there, it can't spread
If it proves to be a problem, I can always fit something a lot more solid Now I know where to attack the problem

How is the co-ax cable mod holding up ?
Is it still doing what you hoped ?
Cheers !
Brian.

Pleased to say it's still holding up
Can still get first gear from a stand still

Also, since having done this mod, it's a 5 second job for anyone else to do, as all you have to do, is rotate the ratchet and slide in the cable to achieve the same end result (no dismantling required)

[AndyG]

Can you not change the pedal for the later smiley type that has the threaded bar end on the cable so you can adjust yourself easily.

Yes Of course you can change the cable and pedal, but having spent on new cambelt, tensioner, discs, pads, track rod ends, brake hoses, downpipe, I thought I'd better cut back a bit on spending on this temporary van
Might get the arches and wings done and flog it, or flog it as it is
Engine and drive train still really good at over 250,000 miles (probably due to the very low output 70PS engine

[jetmorgan]

Hello again,
The pedal end of my clutch cable has the adjustment threaded part, how can I tell when I have taken up the correct amount of clutch adjustment please ? Is it trial and error, or is there a 'Magic' solution ?
Cheers,
BWM.