Key points to sorting clutch

[T J]

Hi
Sorry to ask for help on my first post, been a testing week to say the least, will say hi in the noobs section when I'm a bit less stresed .

Would really appreciate pointers to the key stuff I need to know to get my juddering clutch sorted.
Have read a few threads but as I'm no mechanic it would be great if anyone could give me some help as I need to sort it asap.

Bought my first transit last weekend (P reg 1997, SWB 120, 2.5L, 107000 miles ),
an old BT van that has had a half hearted attempt at coverting it into a camper/weekend van,
took a friend who knows a bit about motors and we decided it was basically sound if a bit rough around the edges,
a good tarting up project

On way home, noticed a heavy judder when I reversed at one point,
but put it down to my clumsy driving in a new (bigger) vehicle as it wasn't there on the test drive.
Next outing I fond I have a judder when pulling off in first and very heavy judder in reverse.
This has continued all week and doesn't seem to make a difference if it's hot or cold.
The release point is very very high.

From reading around I see clutch judder is a common problem,
but I am worried that it's either gonna damage the engine or the prop/UV as it's a pretty heavy judder.


-Do I need a new clutch?
-Is there anything to checked before deciding it's the clutch ?

-If it is the clutch would it be a job me and my mate could tackle?
-If we do it ourselves what parts do I need?
-When buying a clutch , the quality varies, how do I know a good one?
-What price can I expect to pay ?

If I go to a mechanic:
-What should I expect to pay ?

-Any other considerations?


As I've just shelled out all my money on the van and Tax, I really need to get this done cheaply,
any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Trev

[MinorMatt]

The first thing I would do if there is bad judder is to get under the van and look at the bearing on the propshaft... they are surrounded by a rubber donut and these can perish/break giving excessive movement in the propshaft. Basically if you push the propshaft fairly hard in all directions it shouldnt be able to knock on the bracket that holds the bearing.

Bearing is less than £30 and shouldnt take a garage more than an hour.

After that its probably the clutch You can get cheapys on ebay for £50 odd - i've got one in mine and it can judder a bit. I would look out for a big name clutch (LUK, Borg & Beck, Valeo etc) or genuine ford.

Probably about £200 labour + clutch at a garage.

Have you asked your friend his opinon and whether he would be able to do it?

[jay]

also check the engine mounts including the rear gearbox mount are all intact with no bolts missing..

[T J]

Thanks for taking the time to reply guys, very much appreciated

look at the bearing on the propshaft...

also check the engine mounts including the rear gearbox mount are all intact with no bolts missing..

Will get under it today and check them out, thx

Have you asked your friend his opinon and whether he would be able to do it?

Yeah he says so,
but I got the impression he thinks we can get away with just replacing the plate which I'm doubtful about.

[MinorMatt]

you might get away with just chaging the plate, but given everything has to come off to get at it you might as well fit a whole new kit...

[T J]

you might get away with just chaging the plate, but given everything has to come off to get at it you might as well fit a whole new kit...

Yeah,I see what you mean
Been quoted £78inc VAT for a Valeo

look at the bearing on the propshaft...

no excessive play, rubber mount seems fine

also check the engine mounts including the rear gearbox mount are all intact with no bolts missing..

Engine mounts (2 of? ) seem ok as does the rear gearbox mount

Have adjusted pedal which has eased the judder a bit, or at least gives me better control over it.

Gotta speak to a few people see if I can get mates rate on getting it sorted.

[T J]

Hopefully got a friend to do it Wednesday

I would look out for a big name clutch (LUK, Borg & Beck, Valeo etc) or genuine ford.

Just having a look to see if I can get the price down,
what other brands would you include in the "etc" ?
I have a good price on a "Transmech", are they a reputable brand?

Will check the seals while we're in there,
planning to change the oil / oil filter /air filter / fuel filter at the same time, as it's a new (to me) van,
anything else I should consider ? (will have to tackle the cam belt when I've recovered from this financial blow )

Thx again

[MinorMatt]

never heard of transmech before...

Luk, Borg&Beck, Valeo, QH I can't think of any other "good" manufacturers... BTW LuK and Valeo seem to supply most manufacturers with their clutches

[rhurt5]

Transmec arecheap budget clutches with very little progresson,they are genrally in or out.LUK were oiginal fit from ford,borg-beck are good with valeo being good also(fitted as standard in french stuff)im not a lover of qh as they are mid-range after market replacements but definatly better than transmech

[sideshow_bill]

Cost of parts is going to be insiginificant next to the effort replacing them. Pay less than £100 for a complete kit and you won't go far wrong.

[T J]

mmm may be cause for embarassment here

I may have sorted it, at least for now.

Got a Haynes manual, in the spec it says the clutch pedal stroke between the stops should be 79mm +/- 2.5mm,
mine was at 105mm !! (the clutch was releasing at the very last fraction of the travel)

After setting to the spec the judder seems to have pretty much gone:
in reverse there is a faint judder;
in 1st the tiniest of judder (may be I'm over sensitive to it now, not even sure that someone else would notice it).

From reading around I see judder is a common tranny problem,
so if it stays like this should I be ok to leave it for now ?

[MinorMatt]

I would leave it and see what happens then!

[WildGoose]

If it's working, i'd leave it until it doesn't.

I did a clutch change a few years ago on my Mk5 (different van now, and will be doing it again at some point as my release bearing is kippered and rattling a lot).

I don't fuss about brand names, I bought this... although I paid £40 for exactly the same thing, they seem to have inflated their prices somewhat recently. Can't remember the brand, it was 3 letters (one was an S), the boxes are blue and white with stripes.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-CLUTCH- ... 2c4c6aa610

Here is another place i've used for parts, though not a clutch, it will likely be identical to the one above.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRANSIT-CLUTCH-KI ... 3efcb5d857

It's not a difficult job, but can be a bit awkward (I followed a guide on here from Guy88). Lifting the gearbox off and on is never fun, useful to have a helper above in the cab supporting the weight with a strap. While you are doing all this, its worth taking the flywheel off and changing the rear crank oil seal, and the spigot bearing while you are at it.

[T J]

Did about 50 miles in it today,generally ok,
got stuck in a long jam, bit of judder but not too bad,
at least it's not trying to kick the prop out.

Gonna run it for a ,while see how it goes.

I'm sure it'll need doing in the near future, hopefully it'll be warmer then

Thanks for taking the time to reply guys,
very much appreciated
You've all been a great help in a time of panic,
I've learned a lot in a short space of time
and saved a few quid (at least for now).

No doubt I'll be resurecting this thread in the near future