Few issues with new Transit..

[mmaddock]

Just picked up my Transit and found a couple of issues that the seller 'forgot' to mention. On the whole I'm pleased with it, the engine is a lot more willing than the last Transit I had - it is a 'banana manifold' type, and it drives well.

First issue being that evertime you brake the pedal pulses and shakes the van half to death! Seems like warped discs to me as it varies with speed i.e. going fast - fast pulsing, as you slow, the pulsing / shuddering slows down. I've bought new discs and pads - is there anything I should know, or is it as easy (bolts willing!) to change them as it is on most other vehicles?

Second, the rear diff is far worse than he described - it is almost unbearable, almost sounds like it is running dry! What is the appropriate fix / best way to get it sorted? How much ££?!

The exhuast sounds a bit rattly, I think from around where the downpipe joins the rest of the exhaust - there is a rather strange looking piece of pipe (cat/silencer??) that doesn't appear to be much larger diameter than the actual exhaust - looks a bit cobbled together to me, any ideas?

Another issue is the terrible rumble when you set off from a stop - you can do it without the rumble if you give it plenty of revs when setting off - would I be right in thinking that this is a clutch issue rather than the prop-shaft?

Finally, I'm doing a service on the engine and I've never changed a fuel filter on a diesel before, was wondering what the issues are ragarding air in the system etc. what should I do to make sure I get it right?

Oh yeah, and just to be absolutely sure as I don't have a manual, the sump plug is on the passenger side of the sump to the rear, yes? - 1/2 in bolt? Just I don't have a manual and it doesn't look as though it has ever been touched, plus I couldn't get it to move!

Cheers for any help,

Matt
1997 2.5Di 190 LWB

[MrMPuk]

Sounds like Discs as you say.

Check the level you never know it might be dry!

That's the exhaust flexie.

Sounds like oil on the clutch plate.

Just make sure you fill the filter with clean diesel before you fit it and when you first start the van give it full revs to ensure it starts okay.

[Nighthawk]

It's far more common to have distorted brake drums and wheels on the 15" 6 stud Transits due to over enthusiastic tightening of the wheel nuts.

Drive the vehicle at approx 50mph, keeping your thumb on the handbrake lever release button, apply the handbrake.

If the van shakes it's on the rear and it's time to start hoping that cleaning up the mounting faces of the hub,drum and wheels will scuff up clean so when you reposition the wheels and torque them up to spec the judder is removed.

180Nm on the 6 stud 15" wheels

[mmaddock]

Yeah, checked the fluid level cheers - if anything I think it is a bit high.

Will give that a go with the hand brake NH and see what happens before I start replacing discs. The discs actually feel as though they are quite new anyway, but if they were cheap ones they could have warped quickly I guess?

OK, will get some spare diesel before I do the filter - normally I have a can around, but I used it up a while back and never re-filled.

Have just re-checked the exhaust - found out why it is rattly/noisy - he has (very badly) welded the exhaust behind the centre box, and the bit behind the centre box has now fallen off! There are several other welds along that section which look as though they are about to fall off too - so I'll get it into the exhaust place early next week and get that section replaced. Thought it sounded a bit noisy, but just assumed it was the tranny engine! Probably why it is goes well at the moment, will no doubt loose a load of power when the exhaust is fixed!

Glad I got the van cheap!! I should have been a bit suspicious when he was willing to accept a low offer!

Cheers,

Matt

[mmaddock]

Drive the vehicle at approx 50mph, keeping your thumb on the handbrake lever release button, apply the handbrake.

Tried that today when I went out to try and get a cheap exhaust. Didn't notice any shaking from the rear.

When I apply the brakes, you can actually feel quite significantly the brake pedal pulsing in and out (not like ABS) but you can feel that the pedal is being pushed back towards you as the wheels turn. I've had warped discs before now, but I don't recall the brake pedal doing that.

Matt

[jimski]

I once had a similar problem after a friend of mine skimmed my brake disks on a lathe but failed to make sure that had "clocked" them properly and ended up making one side thicker than the other so that when I put my foot on the brake the disk pushed back against the piston and the pedal pushed my foot back up again. Sounds like your problem.

[thehangmen]

I know of one actual case and have heard it mentioned as being a recognised quirk - the fuel filter is prone to shaking loose in transit if not fitted properly.
Make sure the lip at the top of the filter is securely positioned within the wire loop that supports it.

[MrMPuk]

I know of one actual case and have heard it mentioned as being a recognised quirk - the fuel filter is prone to shaking loose in transit if not fitted properly.
Make sure the lip at the top of the filter is securely positioned within the wire loop that supports it.

This might be the one with the quater turn plastic collar.

[mmaddock]

It's far more common to have distorted brake drums and wheels on the 15" 6 stud Transits due to over enthusiastic tightening of the wheel nuts.

Give that man a prize! Changed the rear axle and (to cut a long story short) the 'new' hubs with the replacement axle made the majority of the braking problem go away. 'new' hubs seem to be affected as well, but nowhere near as much as the old ones, so I can live with it now!!

Fortunately replacement axle has sorted the hideous whine as well!

All I've got to get sorted now is the clutch which judders like mad and makes it very difficult to set off without shaking your teeth out!!

Matt

[100ps_drw_hicube]

check the rear crank oil seal when doing the clutch

[Nighthawk]

Glad you got it sorted.

Once the wheels have been overtightened it can be an expensive job to sort it out. I've never changed a hub assembly though as a result of it.

usually just the wheels and drums

A tip for the future though, mark the position of the wheel rim against the ½ shaft and then also mark the drum against the same position marker.

And IF.....you ever remove the ½ shaft.....mark it's position against the hub

That way you'll ensure everything goes back in the correct place