Another turbo on N/A question sorry

[Viva_65]

Hello

Hope someone can help me decide what injectors i can use for my turbo conversion

I have the 0460 414 086 bosch pump from another post i found this is 70hp pump

I have so far managed to get a standard turbo, turbo inlet manifold and the stubby out the back of the turbo. Will see if i make the main manifold or not as they are 300 pound at the moment on ebay. Other than that its a standard Di and will do the cambelt and tappets at the same time.

The question: can i turn the pump up enough on the 76ps injectors without stressing the pump? If i need to go new injectors is my pump large enough for 100ps injectors? Or 85ps will be okay for what i need.

The engine is in a mk1 transit ci motorhome twin wheeler. Which will have 16" wheels eventually, An im pretry sure i have the long rear diff (yet to confirm)

The original reason for this conversion was to make the engine quieter.

Im not after massive amounts of performance , economy and reliability and not to drop it down into 1st gear on every hill

I know this topic has been done to death, ive been reading all i can before asking this question, thankyou in advance.

[metalworker0]

well ive heard that N/A have a higher compression ratio..

just as comparison

i looked for the lynx engine fitted to the connects and orions

Orions were N/A .. 21.5 ratio
The turbo connects have 18.5 ratio

and then i looked what the outcome was ... and what was said was damage to engine would result

includes blown head gaskets, cracked pistons, and turbo failure from oil starvation(where's the oil supply coming from for your turbo)

all the best.mark

[Altransit]

includes blown head gaskets, cracked pistons, and turbo failure from oil starvation(where's the oil supply coming from for your turbo)

The 1.8 Lynx and the 2.5Di are very different engines, and the Di doesn't generally suffer from any of the above ailments.

Many have been successfully turbo'd in the past, which does include sourcing an oil supply for the turbo, and tweaking the pump timing to overcome the difference in compression ratio.

Hopefully one of the guys on here who have done this will jump in with some advice

[Viva_65]

For sure yeah the engine is higher compression but as Altransit said many people have done this and done many miles after, im making a panel for the diesel pump pulley now so i can advance timing, and to adjust without removing the cambelt cover.

Oil supply is taken from a blank thats just below the exhaust manifold.

True i didnt say what engine ,yeah the 2.5 DI transit

[metalworker0]

My research .. looked at the different compression rations of the lynx, just to find out what was different between a turbo and a non turbo to give a baseline.

N/A with turbo info was not based on the lynx was based on all diesel engines

i suppose he could put in an adjustable dump valve and a boost gauge .. and turn it down a bit

Reading up: said the the higher compression would make the combustion temperatures higher .

Don't think he is after an all out performance engine in a MK1 camper van .. he wants something to climb hills a bit faster and have a bit more umph

As regards the controls, does the 2.5di have a maf sensor and electronics in place to know what amount of fuel to squirt in. think that would trip me up or cause me engine damage.
I think a lot of extra research needs to be done before he proceeds.

so is this all mechanical fuel pump and changing injectors until you find the right ration .. would that be tricky

all the best.mark

[Viva_65]

There is no maf sensor on the di without a turbo from standard, you have adjustability on the back of the mechanical pump, i was going to turn it up until im happy with the power or if it smokes turn it back.

I just wanted to know whats possible with the pump i have, think its a question to answer from someone who has done this conversion before, i understand the 146 pump is okay to handle the 115ps injectors.

Yes i plan to run little boost i hear 0.8 bar is safe so will slowly go up to that

Thanks for the replys

[Altransit]

you have adjustability on the back of the mechanical pump,

There are two adjustments on the Bosch pump, the one on the back, as you say, and the one on the top, which increases the torque. The top one makes a huge difference, even without a turbo!

[meerkatmag]

If this helps at all, my setup is as follows:

I have very similar 2.5di engine, an old one from 88. I first fitted bosch 146 pump with original 68hp injectors. Standard turbo, turbo manifold etc. Everything worked fine for a few years like this. Recently I upgraded the cylinder head to a pencil style one and fitted 100hp injectors. Also everything works fine like this. It sounds different now and maybe makes a bit more power. Currently maxing out at 12psi boost. I haven't done anything to modify compression ratio.

[Viva_65]

Ahh i have only screwed in half a turn on the back screw, good to know i will try the on eon top tomorow

Meerkatmag, that does help i think the 146 pump is the best from what i read and is okay with the 100ps injectors, the fact that you were on 76ps for a while makes me think they have a good range.

Okay i will go with turbo and keep the stardard 76ps injectors.

Planning this work in July when im back in the UK will post a update

Lets see if i can get a manifold by then

[bruce.edlin3001]

I am pretty sure that the compression ratios are the same but forced induction will raze it, most turbo motors do have lower ratio.

Sent from my SM-A156E using Tapatalk

[Peterr]

Anybody have a list of compatible injector numbers for the xxx..146 Bosch pump on a turbo engine?

Can someone confirm that I can use the same injectors from the Lucas pump with the xxx…146 Bosch ?

[meerkatmag]

Anybody have a list of compatible injector numbers for the xxx..146 Bosch pump on a turbo engine?

Can someone confirm that I can use the same injectors from the Lucas pump with the xxx…146 Bosch ?

As far as I'm aware any injector will 'work' in theory. The question is whether the pump is happy with the power being requested from the injector that you have. I suspect that when I was running with my original BOSCH KBEL78P23 injectors (the chunky ones from mk2 and early mk3s) these had opening pressures of around 250bar and it may have put a strain on the pump as they're not designed to flow the amount of fuel I had tuned it for. However they can work up to around 80hp or a little more so I don't think it was a big problem. My pump did seem to overheat after really long runs at motorway speeds. The idle rpm would drop and the van wouldn't run very happily at idle for a few minutes. Then it seemed to recover, perhaps it was heat soaked? When I upgraded the cylinder head and fitted brown dot stanadyne pencil injectors, these have an opening presure of 275bar (I think) should be capable of up to 130hp and clearly flow way more fuel. The pump seems happier since and I haven't seen the low idle symptoms since. The timing had to be adjusted a bit with these injectors as well as tuning the pump differently to manage the higher opening pressures. The sound is a bit different with these injectors as well.

So I suspect although both the old bosch injectors and the new ones both work fine. The pump is probably happier (and cooler) with the higher power injectors.

[Peterr]

Thanks, I have an MK2 with an extra set of injectors with same model numbers stamped on the side. They also look like they can be dissembled. Just wondering if it’s possible to dissemble and clean in an ultrasonic cleaner or would it be better not to dissemble?

[cherniy_chack]

I installed a turbocharger on my naturally aspirated 2.5 diesel engine back in 2015.
I use Stanadine 33406 "red" injectors and have two Bosch 154 fuel pumps with a 100 hp turbocharger and a Bosch 145 fuel pump with a hydraulic booster for 80 hp.
In my opinion, using the 145 pump with a hydraulic booster is preferable. Turning the hydraulic booster screw in increases fuel delivery at low RPMs, and therefore torque and engine thrust at low RPMs.
The overall pump flow can be increased by turning the screw on the back of the pump until light smoke appears under load, and then turning the screw out until the smoke disappears.
The standard opening pressure of the new Stanadine injectors of all colors and part numbers is the same—275 or 280 bar; I just can't remember right now. Reducing the injector opening pressure increases the maximum injector flow rate. This also increases the engine's tendency to smoke when the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply. A happy medium is needed here.
In addition to these adjustments, the injection pump's internal pressure should be checked and adjusted to the recommended values ​​for the specific Bosch fuel pump part number.
It's best to aim for the maximum permissible values, as this will result in earlier injection.
It's also essential to set the initial injection advance angle by correctly installing the timing belt and all shafts on the locking pins.
With the correct initial injection angle and a properly functioning starter and battery, a warm engine, or even just in summer, starts instantly on the first crankshaft revolution.
It's difficult for me to estimate the actual power of my engine, but it pulls really well even on the rear axle with a 1:3.31 reduction. This is a rear axle from a 2007 Transit. On cars of our era, a rear axle reduction of 1:4.10 is a rare configuration; usually it is 1:4.56 for a five-stud axle or 1:4.63 for a six-stud axle.

[meerkatmag]

Bosch 145 fuel pump with a hydraulic booster for 80 hp.

How did you fit an HBA on the transit ve pump or did you use a VE from another vehicle? I'm want to add an HBA to my Bosch VE but can't find much info on how to do it.