Battery specifications for 1995 Transit 2.5D

[hetman]

I'm sorry if this has been answered before but I couldn't find any information here (or anywhere online or in various technical manuals) on what exact battery specifications my 1995 Transit 2.5D needs! This seems like such a basic issue that I'm surprised that this crucial information is not forthcoming. Seven years ago I bought a battery for my van at the local Inter Cars part store chain, so I expected it to be correct but now I"m convinced it had too little cranking power. That battery is gone and I need to replace it with the proper one. Please help! Thank you. I need to know the minimum CCA and Ah I need.

[Altransit]

Mine had a type 100 battery, and I replaced like for like.
If yours isn't cranking fast enough, then you may have an old, or just lazy, starter, or the main leads could be damaged or corroded.

Avoid cheap (Lion) or unbranded batteries, and stick with brands such as Ford, Bosch or Varta etc.

[hetman]

Mine had a type 100 battery, and I replaced like for like.
If yours isn't cranking fast enough, then you may have an old, or just lazy, starter, or the main leads could be damaged or corroded.

Avoid cheap (Lion) or unbranded batteries, and stick with brands such as Ford, Bosch or Varta etc.

Thank you very much, but I'm not familiar with a "Type 100" battery. What does that mean in terms of cold cranking amps or amps? I will check the connections and leads but when I buy a new battery, I don't want to waste time and money getting a battery that is not suited for the job. I know that the battery for my 1.4 liter Diesel engine in my VW Polo puts out 75 amps, so wouldn't a 2.5 liter diesel require more than that? Because the battery that I bought 7 years ago was rated lower than the one for the 1.4 TDI engine. So I'm finding it hard to believe that a 60 amp battery is adequate. How can something so basic as battery specifications be so hard to find? Why is this not listed in the various repair manuals? Should I go to the Ford dealer and ask?

[dumper]

Just had a look on Halfords UK they recommended batteries is a Yuasa brand and it gives the amp hour as 75 amp as the standard replacement you’re battery has lasted 7 years I would be very happy at that it’s done well especially in Warsaw, Poland you get proper winters not like the UK.

[Peterr]

I’ve had good experience with the Vesna (and side brand TAB) 100Ah 900A cranking power. Lasted me over 4 years. Well made in Slovenia but can be ordered. Less expensive then Bosch, Varta ecc. Well known brands.

Stay away from all those common inexpensive brands. Stay with actual manufacturer brands not branded chain distributors.

Not sure with Yuasa. Had a series of battery failures with the motorcycle battery until I switched to another quality brand. Strange because Yuasa apparently has a good reputation but the local store refused to honor the guarantee. I’ve read that there are fake Yuasa batteries on the market. Maybe the case here.

[dumper]

You can never beat fitting the biggest battery you can physically get in the vehicle or if you are restricted on size get biggest power one you can get for the size as above always get a good name one

[Altransit]

Thank you very much, but I'm not familiar with a "Type 100" battery. What does that mean in terms of cold cranking amps or amps? I will check the connections and leads but when I buy a new battery, I don't want to waste time and money getting a battery that is not suited for the job. I know that the battery for my 1.4 liter Diesel engine in my VW Polo puts out 75 amps, so wouldn't a 2.5 liter diesel require more than that? Because the battery that I bought 7 years ago was rated lower than the one for the 1.4 TDI engine. So I'm finding it hard to believe that a 60 amp battery is adequate. How can something so basic as battery specifications be so hard to find? Why is this not listed in the various repair manuals? Should I go to the Ford dealer and ask?

From Google:-

A type 100 battery is a common 12-volt car battery used for many vehicles, typically measuring 278mm long, 175mm wide, and 175mm high. These batteries are characterized by having the positive terminal on the right side and are frequently found in vehicles with standard or high electrical demands.

Specifications & Features
Dimensions: 278mm (L) x 175mm (W) x 175mm (H).
Capacity: Usually ranges from 71Ah to 75Ah, though sometimes referred to as 100Ah in some listings.
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps): Generally between 650A and 750A, providing high power for starting, especially in cold weather.
Terminal Layout: 0 (Positive on Right).

The figure you need to focus on is the COLD CRANKING AMPS capacity rather than the storage capacity. This is how many amps that the battery can supply instantly on startup, so a CCA of 750amps will give the starter a bigger kick on a cold start than one of 550amps. That is the figure you should look for when comparing different makes of the same (physical sized) battery.

[bortaf]

You can never beat fitting the biggest battery you can physically get in the vehicle or if you are restricted on size get biggest power one you can get for the size as above always get a good name one

this
back in the day i used to just fit the 2nd battery tray and use double batterys, 15 years with a Di powerd recovery truck and it never let me down, sometimes bigger is better, if it fits the tray it's good.

[hetman]

Just had a look on Halfords UK they recommended batteries is a Yuasa brand and it gives the amp hour as 75 amp as the standard replacement you’re battery has lasted 7 years I would be very happy at that it’s done well especially in Warsaw, Poland you get proper winters not like the UK.

Nice to hear from you, Dumper. I'll never forget how much help you have lent me in my many adventures with this van, and I have made a few updates to my project thread, if you care to take a look. No doubt you remember many of my challenges, and one of them has always been problems with starting this van, and with overheating. My van never had a factory installed glow plug system and I've experienced plenty of failures installing one, and since I have been using the van primarily in the winter, I have always had to use quick start fluid to start the engine, which is a royal pain in the rear. Part of the problem, no doubt, has been an undersized battery. Also, I just finished a valve job and planing of the head, replaced the head gasket (which was damaged, causing overheating, which I hope is now behind me), and installed 4 new Stanadyne injectors. The battery I bought 7 years ago, and is now gone, was underpowered and I don't know why the parts store said it was the right one when it wasn't. I'm going to buy a new battery tomorrow; thanks for your help!

[hetman]

Thank you very much, but I'm not familiar with a "Type 100" battery. What does that mean in terms of cold cranking amps or amps? I will check the connections and leads but when I buy a new battery, I don't want to waste time and money getting a battery that is not suited for the job. I know that the battery for my 1.4 liter Diesel engine in my VW Polo puts out 75 amps, so wouldn't a 2.5 liter diesel require more than that? Because the battery that I bought 7 years ago was rated lower than the one for the 1.4 TDI engine. So I'm finding it hard to believe that a 60 amp battery is adequate. How can something so basic as battery specifications be so hard to find? Why is this not listed in the various repair manuals? Should I go to the Ford dealer and ask?

From Google:-

A type 100 battery is a common 12-volt car battery used for many vehicles, typically measuring 278mm long, 175mm wide, and 175mm high. These batteries are characterized by having the positive terminal on the right side and are frequently found in vehicles with standard or high electrical demands.

Specifications & Features
Dimensions: 278mm (L) x 175mm (W) x 175mm (H).
Capacity: Usually ranges from 71Ah to 75Ah, though sometimes referred to as 100Ah in some listings.
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps): Generally between 650A and 750A, providing high power for starting, especially in cold weather.
Terminal Layout: 0 (Positive on Right).

The figure you need to focus on is the COLD CRANKING AMPS capacity rather than the storage capacity. This is how many amps that the battery can supply instantly on startup, so a CCA of 750amps will give the starter a bigger kick on a cold start than one of 550amps. That is the figure you should look for when comparing different makes of the same (physical sized) battery.

Thank you, sir. I saw in another thread yesterday from a thread 15 years old a recommendation to get a Varta E44 (780CCA, 77 Ah), and it might actually have been you who recommended that. Thanks for the explanation of the Type 100 battery, which seems to be a size classification, not power rating. I've seen this classification named H7. That is about the largest physical size that will fit in the tray, but the tray can be altered a bit to fit a slightly longer battery. Be that as it may, now I know what power rating I need, and I thank you for your help. The battery the parts store sold me 7 years ago had no more than around 600 CCA, I believe. No wonder I've had nightmares trying to start this van in the past, with no glow plug system and 3 faulty fuel injectors (now replaced along with a full valve job and new head gasket - see my progress thread).

[hetman]

You can never beat fitting the biggest battery you can physically get in the vehicle or if you are restricted on size get biggest power one you can get for the size as above always get a good name one

Thank you and I'm considering even modifying the tray to fit a longer battery in there..... I will stick with a good name, such as Bosch or Varta.

[hetman]

I’ve had good experience with the Vesna (and side brand TAB) 100Ah 900A cranking power. Lasted me over 4 years. Well made in Slovenia but can be ordered. Less expensive then Bosch, Varta ecc. Well known brands.

Stay away from all those common inexpensive brands. Stay with actual manufacturer brands not branded chain distributors.

Not sure with Yuasa. Had a series of battery failures with the motorcycle battery until I switched to another quality brand. Strange because Yuasa apparently has a good reputation but the local store refused to honor the guarantee. I’ve read that there are fake Yuasa batteries on the market. Maybe the case here.

Thank you for the information and advice. I plan to buy a battery tomorrow, so I will look up this Vesna brand. My son has a 30-year old Suzuki 750 GSX motorcycle and needs a battery.... Would you have a recommendation for that bike?

[Peterr]

I’m in Italy. This motorcycle battery has been working well. No more trouble like with Yuasa. This model holds a good charge throughout winter. Apparently they’re better made internally. The Yuasa started blistering on the outside and inside the plates were distorted and shorting after 6 months rendering them defective. Had 4 Yuasa batteries do this. Could be fake Chinese clones or an unfortunate production problem at Yuasa. No way of knowing. Local shop that sold them ignores my request to have the guarantee honored. Will be writing to Yuasa documenting what has happened.


https://www.motoshopitalia.com/batteria ... zioni.html

[Altransit]

You can never beat fitting the biggest battery you can physically get in the vehicle or if you are restricted on size get biggest power one you can get for the size as above always get a good name one

Thank you and I'm considering even modifying the tray to fit a longer battery in there..... I will stick with a good name, such as Bosch or Varta.

The Mk5 bonnet slopes towards the front quite a bit, just make sure that the frontmost terminal of a longer battery won't foul the underside of the bonnet
If ultimate battery power is your aim, then consider fitting a second unit on the other side of the engine bay.

[Peterr]

My old MK4 1991 had dual battery L/R but my MK5 1997 had only one on the left. I was able to make room for a second 100Ah battery since it’s being built as a camper. Tight fit, careful when connecting right side battery, positive terminal very close to metal body of van. Remember always remove ground first then positive terminals, attach first positive then ground terminals. This avoids accidentally shorting the positive to the grounded body with a tool.


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