COLD STARTING .......I KNOW IT'S BEEN DISCUSSED B4.......but

[madmark]

as mike says you could have 5 batterys but if its not getting the corect feed its a waist of time! the faster you get that engine to kick over the quicker it will start!

[MrMPuk]

Well put Mark!

[stevew]

I know you said the starter is in perfect order but if your battery is fine that's the next place I'd look. I once worked on a '91 transit that was terrible to start on cold mornings. It would start with a jump start and was fine when it was warm. Turned out to be a corroded earth stud on the end plate of the starter. Cleaned it up and put it in properly and it started fine after that. Try measuring the volts across the starter when it's cranking. Compare that with the battery volts when cranking. Are you loosing a lot?
Steve

[stivh]

Thanks for this folks still wondering why ford now place their batteries in the cabs though? I think merc, toyota and vw do likewise?

Also why on the the same battery/starter feed with the same starter will it churn the motor over and start no problem after I have left the battery indoors over night? I also tried it yesterday which was freezing up here in Manchester but left the battery in the spot I was thinking of placing it - van starts third spin.

Have had a meter on the battery over night no voltage drop or power leaks when on or off the van. Engine oil clean etc

Also you can turn it on just the once leave it for 2 minutes and turn off and then at any point in the next 16+ daytime hours you can start with no problem what goes on overnight???????? To cause the grief!

On the subject of engine heaters I lived in Sweden for five winters and for one plugged my van (a UK 1981 Transit Minibus) into the mains with a heating element in the sump and a diesel heater attached to the coolant supply all of which was set on a timer to start up about an hour before you got into the vehicle. EXCELLENT. It came from an old Volvo and was fitted for me when I arrived. They also stuck the battery behind the drivers seat!!!
All of this is still available to buy over there and with a good second hand market through the breakers ----- they also do have transits and I believe they use the same set up in Germany/Norway and Denmark.

[madmark]

years ago the ambulances used this system, they would plug them in then the van was warm ready to go , hence no need to playaround with the choke in and out on the old essex v6!
but for you to take your batterys indoors it sounds like you might have to duff batterys , have you got the corect cranking output on the batterys!??????

[stevew]

The main reason for moving the battery out of the engine bay is that it gets too hot under the bonnet. Batteries like to be kept cool (though not too cold) if they are going to last.
Steve

[Transit-Tricky]

Just a point of interest about batteries. The output from a battery can be reduced by as much as 80% in extreme cold. My 2.5Di had a new battery fitted but it was about 400A CCA rated (OK for petrol engine). It would not start the van below 0 degC unless it had been kept indoors. I swapped it for a 680A CCA rated battery and dont have a problem cold starting now.

Its all about Cold Cranking Amps! TT

[stevew]

Its all about Cold Cranking Amps! TT

Exactly!

Steve

[chrisuk]

Another way of making sure your battery is up to it first thing in the morning (unlike some woman I know when I am..) is to connect a trickle charger to it, I use a battery conditioner on the bike when its not being used but the bike is gone now sob

[crazyscoot]

Its all about Cold Cranking Amps! TT

I'll cheer to that My thoughts on this prob are to start from the top and work your way back
1/ Get battery checked
2/ clean all terminals around the battery and grease em up with copper ease if you have some.
3/ clean up all the terminals on the starter and grease them up too.
4/ check All earths are clean and bare metal to metal.
5/ the solenoid can get really dirty inside (like a black film) clean it out with wd40 and stick it all back together (this causes the solenoid to stick or move slowly).

Once you have cleaned all these bits and bobs then at the very least you'll know in your own mind that it aint that bit

Just thought........Put a test meter on your battery and read the voltage BEFORE you crank it over. Should be around 12 to 13 volts. Then get someone to turn over the engine whilst your looking at the meter. It should drop to about 10 or 11 volts then shoot back up to 13 or more volts once the engine starts. If it doesn't do this then your battery is knackered