Clutch Fork.

[Dronno]

Hi everybody.

New member, thanks for having me.

I searched for this and didn’t come across it in over 10 pages, so sorry, I’m sure it would have come up before.

Bruce is a 1997 VG LWB fibreglass high roof 2.5 TD.
Bruce and I had dramas today. The clutch pedal to the floor. Anyway, after getting home by starting in first and being gentle with the changes, I removed the cover from around the bell housing and the counter weight had been pulled off the clutch fork.



Trying to work out the best way to move forward from here. Preferably with a clutch....


Any ideas on returning the weight to the fork? Either bolting or glueing? I await your advice.

Thanks.

[INTRANSIT]

Has the arm snapped ?
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=146129

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=78638

[INTRANSIT]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/O-E-CLUTCH-R ... 1364709325

[Dronno]

Hi Intransit.
Thanks for the reply.
No, the arm isn’t snapped. I was having trouble engaging gears, and it was riding the synchros. I wound up the adjusting screw on the pedal over a number of years. Until this. Just slid off! Could be a symptom of other issues. Would like a quick fix with a more long lasting plan. I’m thinking grub screws, or just bolt through? Though drilling the arm could weaken it too much.
Thanks again.
Robert.

[gotgcoalman]

Yours has parted company so your a little bit fooked.
Source an earlier 1 from a Mk3.
They fit and dont break as readily.
mine bent a while back I welded and renforced it without taking the gear box out.

Still ok 2 or 3 years later.

IMG_20160927_100602.jpg

[Noctule]

From the look of your pic the rubber damper is a bit oily, which is probably why it's come off - the oil will have got between the rubber and the end of the arm allowing it to slide off.

To refit it you'll need to clean off all the oil and get everything dry, then spray it with something slippy that will evaporate after pushing it on (e.g.brake spray) or will set to glue the rubber down (hair spray - it's worked for motorbike handlebar grips for generations).

If you're leaving the gearbox on to do it be careful not to pull the arm down or it will fall off the pivot at the top, and it's a pig to get back on again.

Once it's sorted you'll get some of the cable adjustment back, once the block has come so far off the arm it twists forward which gives the slack you'll have been taking up.

Yes, it's happened to me.

Mat

[Dronno]

Thanks guys, hopefully enough info to get me rolling again!

[Dronno]

Hi again.
Thanks for all the advice. I got the rubber back on the fork, but am unsure if it’s on enough?

I also ended up pulling the fork out too far! I’m not sure if it’s back in place, so if anybody has a link for instructions on putting it back in, please let me know. Otherwise, any advice gratefully accepted!

I’ve got to do the two tail shaft bearings soon, so could get a new fork? What’s the best model to get? Early 90’s?

Thanks.
Robert.

[Noctule]

Getting the fork back on without removing the 'box took me bloody ages, I'm sure that even with a torch through the other hole in the bottom of the gearbox it was with much frustration and luck that I eventually managed to get it on.

Obviously taking the 'box off will make it easy to do.

Mat