Not starting .... again >.>

[Pdiddybigbear]

Me again,

So 2.5di turns over wont start, seems to be more when cold but that will be like 1-3c nothing major

Van has had:
New fuel filter,
Bled injectors
Timing belt
Tensioner
Injection timing pinned up then turned as far clockwise as I can
New smaller 13pin starter motor still running off two batteries
Full oil change including cleaning out of sump, new filter and sump gasket - Oil is 10/40w
New coolant
Both batteries flit between 11-13v on my vmeter

I had it starting sweet :- https://www.tiktok.com/@ourmotorhomelif ... 9056100869

My cold start cable on my lucas pump is slack and when i toggle it with the engine running the engine speeds up and starts to smoke. Held open with a spanner on the toggle but still no start and now and its getting to the point of just clicking.

Any ideas please, free to start travelling again from next so dont want to be held back by this.
Thanks

[wojciech]

It may be that during a longer standstill, the fuel flows back into the tank and the injection system becomes air-tight.
I would do two things:
- I would clean the filter holder with Nitro solvent and a clean cloth - where the rubber seal of the filter adheres. This rubber likes to vulcanize and stick to the filter holder, pieces of rubber remain on the holder after removing the old filter. The new gasket then does not stick well to the handle and there is a leak. There is no leakage, because the fuel system in the Mk4 CAV Lucas works under vacuum. A completely new filter must be lubricated with oil on the rubber gasket and the surface with the wire clamp. You put the filter to the holder, press it, turn it slightly left-right and keep pressing the filter while tightening the clamping clamp. This advice is based on my experience over 30 years ago.
- I would check the manual fuel pump on the fuel filter holder - is it still not allowing the fuel to back up into the tank. The pump should be fueltight in the direction of return.

Regardless of everything, the injection pump must be tight without leaks - this can also cause the pump to fill up with longer downtimes.
Did you check the compression pressure in the cylinders?

[cherniy_chack]

It looks like fuel from the system is draining into the tank.
But there may be a problem with the cut-off valve on the injection pump or the wiring to it.
It is necessary to start with the wiring and checking the valve's health.
When the ignition is turned on, the valve should click loudly enough.
Let the assistant turn on and off the ignition, and you listen to the valve.
If the valve clicks, then most likely fuel is draining.
If it doesn’t click, then you need to supply power to the valve directly from the battery. If it doesn’t even click, then replace the valve.
I want to ask: Lucas CAV high pressure fuel pump?
Is there no booster pump under the exhaust manifold?
This complicates the situation somewhat.
If the valve is serviceable, but the engine does not start, then it is necessary to loosen the fastening of the return line from the injection pump to the tank and turn the shaft with the starter until a good stream of fuel appears from the return line.
Tighten the pipe and loosen the nuts on the injectors and turn the engine until fuel appears from under the nuts on the injectors and start the engine.
But the very first thing to do is fill up the fuel tank.
If there is no booster pump, then with a full tank and leaks in the system, the engine starts better.