Time is short!

[Heathen]

I'm having bad, rear braking problems, and the first thing I want to do is check inside the drums.

However, my time is very limited and I want to prepare as much beforehand.

According to the manuals I may need a torque wrench capable of up to 540Nm (depending on axel type).

I have no idea what axel I have. Can any of you i.d it by the attached image?

I'm guessing it's an H axel, but then again, there seem to three different torque settings for the H axel (Hub nut).

[00353theking]

If you have a 6 stud axel you remove the halfshaft relase the brakes from the back and the brake drum will come off , the 5 stud axel is different i cant remember, put a picture of the axel up so people can see and give you advice

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[Heathen]

It's a 6 stud.

I can't start dismantling until I know that I'm able to reassemble to the right torque settings (my wrenches have a max torque of 350Nm).

[MinorMatt]

If you have a 6 stud axel you remove the halfshaft relase the brakes from the back and the brake drum will come off , the 5 stud axel is different i cant remember, put a picture of the axel up so people can see and give you advice

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

If its a 6 stud single wheel you can't get the half shaft out until the drum is off

[V184]

It's a 6 stud.

I can't start dismantling until I know that I'm able to reassemble to the right torque settings (my wrenches have a max torque of 350Nm).

You dont need to remove the hub to get the drums off, remember to mark the wheel/drum to hub otherwise you could end up with brake judder

[Heathen]

You dont need to remove the hub to get the drums off, remember to mark the wheel/drum to hub otherwise you could end up with brake judder

So you're saying that I don't need to remove the hub to remove the drums - that's in contrast to what the Haynes manual reads, but I'm gathering that that's no surprise.

Regardless, if someone could help translate the specifics of my van (axel type etc), it would help me in future work, torque settings etc.

Thanks

[00353theking]

If you have a 6 stud axel you remove the halfshaft relase the brakes from the back and the brake drum will come off , the 5 stud axel is different i cant remember, put a picture of the axel up so people can see and give you advice

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

If its a 6 stud single wheel you can't get the half shaft out until the drum is off

Well the 6 stud axel on the back of my van the half shaft comes out first , mabey there are other variations of them

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[MinorMatt]

Certainly on all the mk4/5 single wheel 6 stud vans I have had - the diameter of the halfshaft is a couple of mm greater than the hole in the drum (due to chamfers cut in the halfshaft/drum)

Twin wheelers - the halfshaft just pops out

[V184]

You dont need to remove the hub to get the drums off, remember to mark the wheel/drum to hub otherwise you could end up with brake judder

So you're saying that I don't need to remove the hub to remove the drums - that's in contrast to what the Haynes manual reads, but I'm gathering that that's no surprise.

Regardless, if someone could help translate the specifics of my van (axel type etc), it would help me in future work, torque settings etc.

Thanks

As far as i can remember no, but if its got abs its easier to change the brake shoes by taking the hub off, we used to air gun the nut on and it "stops" there left & right hand thread i think ? the twin wheelers have to be torqued up as taper bearings

[Heathen]

If you have a 6 stud axel you remove the halfshaft relase the brakes from the back and the brake drum will come off , the 5 stud axel is different i cant remember, put a picture of the axel up so people can see and give you advice

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Hopefully this should get me some answers... I'm still wanting to know what torque setting I'll need to reassemble properly.

[Heathen]

Nevermind, I managed to get inside the Drum.

Braking surface seems even and smooth.

Brake shoes are also smooth. However, they're uneven. Could this be causing the juddering and locking up of the wheels?

I did check LAV, with engine running and brake pedal being pumped. It consistently moves about 5mm-10mm...although, creaks a little bit.

[V184]

Nevermind, I managed to get inside the Drum.

Braking surface seems even and smooth.

Brake shoes are also smooth. However, they're uneven. Could this be causing the juddering and locking up of the wheels?

I did check LAV, with engine running and brake pedal being pumped. It consistently moves about 5mm-10mm...although, creaks a little bit.

What are the tyres like ?

[Chug]

Uneven wear is normal, If the shoes are really glazed smooth then a little roughen up with some emery paper wont hurt, and give the load sensing valve a quick spray with wd40 or similar. cylinders looks a little dusty, sometimes a build up of dust can cause juddering, otherwise as v184 said check the tyres.

Your VIN plate codes, L and J, boxes 6 and 7 are for the axle...... L is 51a Heavy Salisbury, J is 5:14 ratio

[MinorMatt]

Uneven wear isn't normal...

But when supplied one shoe has less material than the other from new - as it does less work

I have also had warped drums on these

[Chug]

I'm away with the fairies at times Uneven wear is normal.. Lolz, uneven shoes is normal as Matt said they come with the front one with less friction material on.