Ldv convoy smoking like hell (mk5 transit smiley engine)

[Marcus t]

Hi there,
Ldv convoy 01 plate with the smiley engine. Runs grand when warm. When cold, starts a bit sluggish but always starts, however it puffs out white smoke until at operating temperature, then absolutely fine and got through MOT no issue (after 30min drive) THE WHITE SMOKE IS DIESEL, IM SURE! it doesn’t use any oil nor coolant.
I’ve changed the injectors, checked the valve clearances thinking an exhaust valve might be a bit sluggish, however no change whatsoever. I’ve tried different expensive bottles of injector cleaners, piston ring cleaners etc and again no luck.
Looking to take it to Europe in 2 weeks and worried I’ll smoke the ferry out!
These engines don’t have glow plugs nor flame plugs. However there is a sensor on the intake that is receiving 4.8v on ignition and when running, with what looks to be some sort of Copper loop on the base of it. I can’t find any information on this and am not sure whether it has anything to do with fuel pump delivery when starting cold and then running? Either way I took it out and tried putting 12v to it, thinking it may be a heater plug but with no reaction whatsoever. It runs the same with this sensor in or out, seems to make no difference.
It’s got new fuel lines, filter and housing. Therefore the only bit I haven’t touched is the mechanical Bosch fuel pump, however considering it runs well when hot, I’m pretty nervous to tamper with it!
Any information would be great as I’m completely stuck for ideas!
Cheers

[MinorMatt]

Sounds like the timing needs to be advanced a little bit....

[Keef]

I had one that did that a while ago, smoked like hell when cold but passed MOT when hot.
When it was stripped, the valves looked like this

IMG-20200507-WA0000.jpg

[Chug]

Yup try advancing the pump timing a little, scribe/mark where the pump pulley is now and then loosen the 13mm bolts holding it on and then turn the large nut in the centre of the pulley clockwise a tad, tighten the pulley bolts and road test for smoke, repeat if necessary, but it can sound a bit loud and rattly if you advance too far.

download/file.php?id=34023&mode=view
click the pic in the link to enlarge.

[Altransit]

Is it possible that the timing belt is worn, or even out by a tooth

Both of my Di's used to get a bit smokey when the belts were due for a change

[Marcus t]

Right cheers everyone, will try advancing timing a wee bit get back to you. Let's hope it's not the valves !

[Marcus t]

Timing cover removed and at tdc with locking hole visible. Do I need to put in a locking pin before I undo all 13mm bolts and turn the centre nut? Also is this all possible with the belt still on?
Cheers for the help!

[Marcus t]

Also wouldn't advancing the timing increase the smoking issue? Should I not retard it?

[Marcus t]

Worked it out. Thankyou all for your help, hugely appreciated!

[Noctule]

What was causing the problem?

[Harilaos]

Yup try advancing the pump timing a little, scribe/mark where the pump pulley is now and then loosen the 13mm bolts holding it on and then turn the large nut in the centre of the pulley clockwise a tad, tighten the pulley bolts and road test for smoke, repeat if necessary, but it can sound a bit loud and rattly if you advance too far.

download/file.php?id=34023&mode=view
click the pic in the link to enlarge.

Any photo of wich is the 13mm bolt? When I look the Bosch pump I understnad nothing

[Chug]

Click the link in my post above and its the 4 bolts in the gold colour pump sprocket next to the word front and the ford logo

[Harilaos]

Oh, now I understand that this gold wheel is pump's wheel.
Is it easy to take off the cover?
When I loose or tight the big bolt something is moving? Thats the reason you marked the black line?

I want to loose the bolt to disadvance the pump

[Chug]

Cover is quite easy to remove, give the torx bit a hit with a hammer when in the screw hole before you try to undo the screws

DO NOT loosen the big nut, only loosen the four 13mm ones and then get a spanner/socket on the big nut and turn that, if you put a mark across the timing pin hole, like in the picture, so you can see the movement, and then you can always go back to the mark if you get any problems.

[Harilaos]

In some other posts I saw the big nut needs only some milimeters to move. Is that right? Is it possible to ruin the timimg absolutely?