Vacuum system

[CCCars]

Hi Matt, found this on Amazon bbfly-BB77105 WIFI Modified FORScan HS-CAN / MS-CAN Mazda OBD2 for iPhone iPad, as I don't have a Windows laptop so will be using my i phone or the wifes ipad, it has good reviews and the c/o switch as you mentioned, would this do what I need with the right app on my phone?
Thanks
Graham

[MinorMatt]

get an elm327 from tunnelrat electronics and download the forscan software (its free)

[CCCars]

Hi Matt, thanks for the recommend, WIFI version ordered so should be able to see what's going on soon!
Graham

[CCCars]

Hi Matt, got the ELM adapter yesterday so which softwre do I need to load on to my phone to use it to interogate my ECU and reset any fault codes that I find? There's a Forscan lite which is 4.95 or the Forscan viewer which is free, or is there something else I'm missing?
Thanks
Graham

[MinorMatt]

I havent used it myself, but know others who have. Try the free one

[CCCars]

Thanks Matt I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you know what I find!
Graham

[Chug]

The free one for phones is to check if its compatible, then if that pans out ok you can buy the full version.

[CCCars]

Todays update, loaded the free app connected successfully with the ELM327 and came up with the following fault codes:-
P0400 EGR System malfunction, could be EVR solenoid if that's the one that controls the EGR valve as that's not working correctly.
P0105 BAP sensor circuit, Barometric Atmospheric Pressure.
P1300 Boost Calibration Fault ?
B1682 PATS is disabled, because engine started and running?
P1109 Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit Intermittent, connectors or intermittent open/short circuit or sensor fault..
P1302 Boost Calibration Low ?

I'm guessing PATS is disabled once the engine has been started so B1682 is just for information?
P0105 P1300 and P1302 I guess would affect performance?
Where is the intake air temperature sensor located, guessing somewhere on the air intake? Is there any way to test it?
P1300 and P1302 refers to a procedure in the service manual to identify the fault, anybody got the manual? I've only got a Haynes book.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Graham

[MinorMatt]

The descriptions of the codes don't align with the codes - my comments are in red

Todays update, loaded the free app connected successfully with the ELM327 and came up with the following fault codes:-
P0400 EGR System malfunction, could be EVR solenoid if that's the one that controls the EGR valve as that's not working correctly.
Will put light on for 5 seconds at start, but not limp - entirely possible its the solenoid
P0105 BAP sensor circuit, Barometric Atmospheric Pressure.
0105 - Boost Sensor, Will cause limp mode - check pipe between inlet manifold and sender, if no obvious fault, replace the sensor
P1300 Boost Calibration Fault ?
Boost Calibration, Will cause limp mode - check pipe between inlet manifold and sender, if no obvious fault, replace the sensor
B1682 PATS is disabled, because engine started and running?
Ignore this one - it won't cause the light to come on
P1109 Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit Intermittent, connectors or intermittent open/short circuit or sensor fault..
1109 - Boost Sensor Low
P1302 Boost Calibration Low ?
See Previous boost ones

I'm guessing PATS is disabled once the engine has been started so B1682 is just for information?
P0105 P1300 and P1302 I guess would affect performance?
Where is the intake air temperature sensor located, guessing somewhere on the air intake? Is there any way to test it?
P1300 and P1302 refers to a procedure in the service manual to identify the fault, anybody got the manual? I've only got a Haynes book.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Graham

Google "Ecovippari Epic" and you will get the LDV Lucas Epic manual which gives loads of useful info and resistance values. If you haven't already, clear the codes and see what comes back...

[CCCars]

Hi Matt thanks for your info, as far as I can tell no limp mode and no CEL showing but feel performance is compromised, will cruise happily at 70 on flat open road but any incline or head wind and the speed drops very quickly.
I know my EVR solenoid is mechanically faulty but vacuum is blanked so no signal to it and no vacuum to EGR to conserve vacuum for brake servo as the EVR solenoid open to atmosphere via the connection to air filter box.
P0105 is the Barometric sensor which I believe is in the PCM and measures atmospheric pressure and compares it to the boost presure sensor (MAP) so if either is faulty will interfere with fuelling.
All I can do with the air temp sensor is check the electrical connection, if I had the resistance versus temperature graph I could check it for function, anybody?
Will have a look at the LDV manual for inspiration.
Thanks
Graham

[MinorMatt]

The descriptions you have for those codes are wrong... google the proper manual as I suggested its got the resistance values in it too - but other than that EGR one everything is pointing to the boost sensor

[CCCars]

Hi Matt, I apologise if it's getting a bit confused I did reply but it seems to have vanished!
I had a look at the LDV manual as suggested and there are some differences between the codes coming up with the Forscan/ELM327 and the LDV manual, in my mind I agree with the LDV descriptions which make more sense with the symptoms I have, the more I think about it the more I feel that my turbo might be the cause, as previous turbo is leaking oil and suspect not giving the boost it should which would hold back the fuelling and affect performance, what do you think?
Is there a way to measure boost pressure, I have a suitable gauge suppose I can tee into the hose to the boost sensor and see what I get?
Graham

[MinorMatt]

Yes, tap in to the pipe between the manifold and the sensor...

But as its low pressure I believe the sensor is at fault. One of mine wouldn't boost due to a massive hole (40mm dia?) in the inlet tract and it didn't bring any codes up

[CCCars]

Didn't have a big enough tee piece so just plugged my gauge direct on to the manifold, didn't know what to expect with the sensor disconnected but it still ran!
So in neutral at full revs got about 4.5 psi and in gear with all the brakes on it revved to about 1500rpm and I got about 2.5psi of boost guess the stall speed of the torque convertor is 1500 which seems about right to me. I'll try to get a bigger tee piece and try again in case the boost sensor is working and with it in line it allows more fuel and hence more boost?
Graham

[MinorMatt]

Without the boost gauge attached its meaningless, as not enough diesel will be generated to see boost... its a little bot of a catch 22

You should see about 12-14PSI on a standard engine