Is there 2 types of injectors?

[Taylorstransit]

I am replacing the injectors in a 1995 68ps 2.5 as its really slow the pump has been fully rebuilt still no different so replacing injectors

This is were I need some advice…

I bought some original dry stored injectors red dot ones being 76ps
I was told I could go bigger so thought id buy some red dot ones instead of the original green ones 68ps.

The problem is theres 2 types of injectors?

Fitting the ones I have bought they seem slightly different sitting and now when started it runs very rough and when revved it wont rev at all.

Should I have fitted new ones that were
In the van originally that had the silver clip over the top? They look like older ones 1994-1997 and the type I have bought being later mk5 1997-2000 with the different top no metal clip.

Or can you put in any of the 2 type in the van and as long as its similar power it should run?

[Chug]

There are different types of injectors depending on year but I'm not sure which years either or if they are interchangeable, I'm sure Matt or someone will know and enlighten us.

[cherniy_chack]

There are at least two types of pencil injectors for Ford Transit before 2000.
Externally, they are quite different.
The injectors were changed after 1995 or after 1998.
Older injectors have a plastic cap on a spring, and on newer injectors, the caps are pressed with a nut or something similar to a nut. To install these two types of injectors on the engine, two different types of clamping devices are used.
All injectors have the same opening pressure - 275 bar, but differ in the diameter of the nozzle holes.
The higher the declared engine power, the larger the diameter of the nozzles.
Of the injectors for atmospheric engines, the "red" injectors have the largest diameter - 0.2 mm.
The most productive injectors - for a marine turbodiesel 130 or 140 hp have a diameter of the nozzle holes of 0.26 mm. 100 HP injectors have a spray hole diameter of 0.22 mm.
I got all this information from this forum, but I can't give you a link - I lost it.

[cherniy_chack]

If after repairing the high-pressure fuel pump, when you press the gas pedal, the engine does not develop speed, then the problem is not in the injectors, but in the fact that the pump was incorrectly adjusted after repair. Or it was not repaired at all.
About 10 years ago, I was given a fuel pump, but after installing it on the engine, the engine did not respond to the gas pedal.
I took it to be repaired, it turned out that water got into the pump and the low-pressure vane pump blades were stuck due to rust and it did not create pressure in the fuel injection pump body.
And this pressure controls the injection advance angle, on which the engine dynamics greatly depend.
The test plans for our pumps regulate the internal pressure in the pump body from about 5 bar at 500 rpm to about 9.5 bar at 2000 rpm or 5 at 1000 rpm and 9.5 bar at 4000 rpm.
Not all pumps have a nipple to measure this pressure.
Here is an old video where I measure this pressure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkHMcSENfOw

[Taylorstransit]

Thats great info thanks againe

So I have ordered the correct pencil ones with spring clip and kept with the green ones

I will either sell the red later type or keep them for Anouther mk5 i have which they will go in


Hoping these new injectors just bring back the power in the engine I know its only 68ps but weve had it years and it feels like it has 30bhp at most.

The pump was rebuilt by diesel bob and after fitting in January engine now runs better than it used to with a misfire now theres No misfire but very slow.

so pump will be perfect still and It has been adjusted recently to no effect on performancehence the new injectors.

I did think about getting the garage to do a compression check on the engine but its not as straight forward?? Evan with the injectors all out

It sounds ok at idle no unusaly noises for a 2.5 and removing the oil cap while running has no blow back

If the injectors dont bring the power back to standard it must be the engine itsself which we have a spare for to go in.

The van does on 1/2 throttle throw lots of blue smoke out - but not often as full power it barely moves 45 mph on the flat and full power there is no blue smoke. Blue smoke is oil? But the oil is not goong down so I was thinkinh it could be unburnt fuel if the injectors are finished

There is also a new recent misfire on high engine rpm 40mph + you can feel the slightly misfire kangaroo defo a fuel issue

[cherniy_chack]

The very first step in checking the fuel pump after its repair by the car owner is to check the maximum idle speed of the engine.
They should be from 4000 to 4400 rpm, better 4400.
The most common reason for low idle speed is incorrect installation of the lever on the gas shaft on the pump. The lever rests against the stop.
You need to move the lever back by 1 or 2 teeth on the gas shaft.
If the lever is installed correctly, but the engine does not develop maximum speed, then, probably, the low cyclic feed of the pump, you need to tighten the M8 screw with a lock nut at the rear of the pump about half a turn and check the maximum speed. If the screw is tightened to the "hymen" (this is what we call the hymen and all sorts of technical limiters), and the speed does not reach the specified value, you should remove the limiter and try to tighten the screw deeper. If the pressure in the pump body is set incorrectly, the motor picks up speed sluggishly, runs softly and smokes light smoke.
You should also check the completeness of the opening of the air damper in the air manifold. At full throttle, it should be fully open. If there is smoke in intermediate throttle positions, and there is no smoke at full throttle, then you should fix the air damper in the fully open position and check the smoke at intermediate speeds.
You cannot believe the claims that the pump repair was done correctly.
High-quality repair and adjustment are quite expensive, about half the cost of buying a new pump. Cheap fish produces tasteless soup.