Mk5_puffing.....

[Tragustauro]

Besides firework. Can anybody recognise this puff-noise?

Out of no where, the car lost power and started to "puff" and stutter on the way. Before that the car is driving perfect.

It felt like a push of a button when it happend.

Everything seems to work fine except this newly aquried puff and rough driving.

1 and 2nd gear almost normal. 3 and 4th gear rough driving ....

All 4 sparkplugz has been replaced today.....Aaand the smoke...hmm I do not recall it being that severe.. Head gasket?

Link:

https://youtu.be/cVR4VKrmwIM

Thanks in advanced...

[metalworker0]

is that a firework going off in the background or is it your van

you said sparkplugs so its petrol , i don't know enough about youre particular engine .. did it evolve to coil over ignition ... or does it have a coil pack with four HT wires firing two plugs at a time .. if they are not fireworks in the back ground, i wound suspect coil pack faiing or ht leads


edit just read -- "besides the firework"

i dont know ... its fuel injection .. and you may still have ignition problems and its unburnt fuel ... probably on its way to destroying the catalyst


head gasket - you need to do a lot of tests to determine this .. and most or all are at the other end in the engine bay.

does it smell of petrol?

all the best.mark

[metalworker0]

ebay search confirms you have two coils .. each coil has 2 HT leads


all the best.mark

[Tragustauro]

Yess its firework in the BG. Talk about good timing....

Just went to buy breakfluid for my Land Rover....

While exiting the parking lot in 2nd gear the ford started to "cough" a bit...

While gaining speed in 3rd it became more "exciting" and the coughing became more "violent"...It drives but not very smooth..

No apparent white smoke or smoke at all from exhaust... Initially I thought that the spark plugs has served its time from 1995...since it sounded like it was "jumping" a valve and not getting traction... All spark plugz replaced.. not much of a difference...

Unplugged the MAF sensor. It did not seem to be the issue...

Its a 2.0 petrol fuel injection. No ignition problems.It has 122000 km on the clock and drive like a dream...until today...


TT

[Chug]

Is it starting normally, have you noticed any difference? is it using any coolant?

[metalworker0]

Well here's a repeat of a few posts i made to help you diagnose a head gasket

Compression test
The compression test is done with all spark plugs out ..you need a good battery to spin it over quickly.
the tester is not one of those with a rubber cone , it will have adaptors etc to screw your injector holes.
pressures if the engine is good should be well over 120 psi. and within 10 percent of each other.

This compression tester has many diagnostic uses:

•General test to establish that compression is down

•Wet test to differentiate; if valve wear or ring wear

•Diagnose a faulty head gasket blowing between cylinders

•Diagnose a holed piston or damaged valve


if not over 120 psi ..you can then move onto a leak down test.. you need compressed air for this .

leak down test as described online


A cylinder leak-down test is a diagnostic procedure that measures the rate at which compressed air escapes from a cylinder, providing insights into engine condition and potential problems like worn piston rings, valves, or head gaskets.
How it works:
1. Pressure application:
A leak-down tester, using compressed air, is attached to the spark plug or injector hole of a cylinder.

2. Pressure measurement:
One gauge measures the input air pressure, while the other gauge indicates the percentage of air leaking out of the cylinder.

3. Leakage assessment:
A low percentage of leakage indicates a healthy cylinder, while a higher percentage suggests a problem like worn rings or valves.

4. Sound and visual clues:
Listening for air leaks at various engine points (exhaust, intake manifold, cooling system, etc.) can help pinpoint the source of the leak.

Purpose:
Identify internal engine problems:
Leak-down tests can reveal issues like worn piston rings, burnt or stuck valves, and blown head gaskets
.
Determine engine condition:
The test provides a more detailed assessment of engine health compared to a standard compression

test. Locate leaks:
By listening for air escaping at different points, mechanics can pinpoint where the leak is originating.

Important points:
Crankshaft position:
The piston should be near Top Dead Center (TDC) during the test.

Air pressure:
A controlled, regulated air supply is used for consistent and repeatable results.
Leakage percentages:
A fresh engine should not leak more than a few percent, while higher percentages (e.g., 10-20%) may indicate the need for repairs.

Listen and observe:
Careful listening and observation during the test can help identify the source of the leak.

Was left out so will add something to it ..each piston is brought up to TDC ...then you'll hear which valve is leaking as both should be closed..well you can only properly determine how much you can hear this with manifolds removed ...which you're going to do anyway, if it has failed the compression check.

The equipment is called a "cylinder leak down tester", you can buy or make one yourself with an air line, the compression tester adaptors, and turn off air and observe the pressure gauge on the compressor. your DIY one will not give you percentages etc ..but it will tell you what's going on in a rough and ready way.

So those are two procedures you can get on with .

Some traits of head gasket failures.
some here are what I've experienced:...not all at the same time ..different cars and engines:

Collapsed hoses when it cools down
Holding pressure when after its cooled down
Bubbling in the tank
Rock hard hoses
Weeping hoses at the joints
Temperature gauge going up
Temperature gauge going down if the sensor is high up in the system
Heater being inoperative is one of the first signs of it
Noise like whistle on a kettle as the thermostat opens.
Opening pressure cap on a cold engine results in sound like its under vacuum or sounds like pressure ..like opening a pop bottle, and lots of gurgling noises.l
Oil in the header tank
Coolant in the oil
Hard to turn over because of coolant or rust in the cylinders.
Loss of coolant
Gain in coolant ...due to oil
Gain in oil level on dipstick due to coolant in oil

I'm sure there are more I've forgotten about.

Loss of coolant can happen many ways.

Into oil in the sump, directly from the head gasket
From cracks in the cylinder head of cylinder sleeves
From heater matrix
From hoses
From EGR cooler directly into exhaust
From the core plugs

its good when i can pull up my old stuff saves a lot of work


you can also buy the ebay coolant tank, bubble through liquid device,
buy a coolest system pressure tester

lots more info just ask .. head gaskets is one of my most knowledgeable subjects, having owed a triumph stag

all the best.mark

[Tragustauro]

Hey.

ok wow.. a lot to go thru...

A Triumph Stag!!. Very cool little car!

I have been "monitoring" the temp needle on the dash display for a few days now. And for some reason last couple of days it stays at low/cool most of a drive. (40 min)....

The cabin heater works fine but no reading on the display.

I did not think of it much since it is well below freezing where I am. Thou it sholud´nt have any connection to what is going on.

Nice and warm in the cabin and the engine "reader" is on low...I was like Hmmm...

After changing the sparks today I saw the needle went to medium heat (Correct position) by driving less the 5 min....I am sure it has nothing to do with all this.but strange anyway..

2 or 3 days ago I smelled like coolant in the cabin. First I thought it was windshield washer liquid......But it had that coolant smell. (Blue)

I just noticed you mentioned this:"Temperature gauge going down".....

And today I got this issue. First I thought it was the water pump that failed. But no connection either .......

A big investigation job a head of me. I´ll try to post more video of the symptoms on the car....

Thanks a lot for your input. I hope I can save this car...

TT

[Tragustauro]

Is it starting normally, have you noticed any difference? is it using any coolant?

Hey.

No coolant missing. Level is max. And it starts like normal. Perfect.... pressing the pedal it has a small cough and then it sound normal almost.

No apparent leaks anywhere...

Thou it smoked quiet a bit this evening. But I am not sure if this is because of the cold weather playing a role in this.

Once I reach 2nd and 3rd gear it becomes a hard ride....it is most evidence while driving that some is not right.... coughing, spitting, and shaking... like a hose come off or something.. But I see no evidence of this...

I´ll see if I can post more clear videos of this.

Thanks.

[Chug]

Have a look in the dark and see if there are any stray sparks around the plugs/leads/coil, I've known similar due to bad leads/coils, or possibly even a coil breaking down.

[Tragustauro]

Hey Chug..

See these "coils"

While the engine running I unplugged each one , one at the time..

Sparks flying around, on each one.
I came to close with my finger and got a slap..Hahah dang...

But no difference ....
In this video you can hear it puffing a couple of times...

Between 14 and 19th second mark in the video you can hear it slightly.

While driving, it becomes a lot more and worse....

https://youtu.be/cVR4VKrmwIM

[Chug]

Yeah its a strange noise, can't say that I've come across that before, but I would still have a look in the dark, and another thought is check for any leaks around the inlet manifold.

[Fo-Banshee]

If there was no change when you removed the coil leads individually, good chance its fuel related. Had similar issue with 2ltr petrol when an injector went. Ran on 3 cylinders badly under load. Easiest way to check injector is to listen to see which one is quiet, not ticking like it should.

[Tragustauro]

So...

Here is the "Spitting and stuttering" Ford Transit Mk5....

Link to video:

https://youtu.be/5imFnaBzv4A

1st and 2nd gear is running somewhat ok.

once shifting into 3rd and 4th. (never reached 5th) It is a pretty rough ride..

TT

[Tragustauro]

Here is a look in the engine bay.

2nd start up. Running rough....

Link to video:

https://youtu.be/Ih0txPPhDBg


TT

[metalworker0]

for a second or two in the engine bay video .. sounded like mlis-firing due to coils or HT leads.

do as someone suggests above .. at night total darkness .. look for stray sparks at the coils and at the leads..


just another thing ... is this this van duel fuel/ LPG ?

all the best.mark